Non-working front washers

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Terranical

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
1,395
The front washers on my '94 T2 have stopped working (twin pumps, rear working fine). No voltage at front pump connector but I can't find a fuse for it. Anyone got any ideas? :nenau
 
The front washers on my '94 T2 have stopped working (twin pumps, rear working fine). No voltage at front pump connector but I can't find a fuse for it. Anyone got any ideas? :nenau
Does anyone know if there is a fuse for the front washers, I did wonder if there was a communal fuse with the wipers, but they are working ok. There is no fuse shown in the internal fusebox or the one under the bonnet.
 
Does anyone know if there is a fuse for the front washers, I did wonder if there was a communal fuse with the wipers, but they are working ok. There is no fuse shown in the internal fusebox or the one under the bonnet.

Later on I will have a look at my wiring diagram, it is from a french manual, probably the only wiring diagram for the early trucks.

My first thought might be the switch, but there might be a relay too...
I will advise ASAP

Rustic
 
Later on I will have a look at my wiring diagram, it is from a french manual, probably the only wiring diagram for the early trucks.

My first thought might be the switch, but there might be a relay too...
I will advise ASAP

Rustic
Thanks very much - appreciated.
 
Thanks very much - appreciated.

Looking at the schematic, Fuse F16 supplies the front wipers and the front screen wash supply.

Similarly F15 the rear screen and wiper.

On my 95 Mav, doing only a wash cycle, ie wipers off, also triggers a wipe of the front wipers.
Looking at the schematic, it also supports this, as the same feed that supplies the front washer pump also goes to a small electronic control unit, that does a wipe cycle.

So the control stalk switch feeds the pump directly, no relay, and also same wire triggers the wipe.

So if when you press the washer only, the wipers don't go, and the wipers work normally when switched to the wipe position, then I would be fairly certain that the switch is faulty.

Wiring wise, the washer pump has a permanent 12 volt feed via F16, violet wire, the other side of the pump, pink wire, is grounded to earth via the stalk switch.

The wiring on later vehicles could be different, so check the colour of your wires.

Hope it helps,
best regards
Richard (Rustic).
 
Had the same issue on the wife's terios and it needs a complete new column switch, but can't get just the wiper side have got to replace the job lot.
For now I have rigged up a push button switch via a fuse to the pump.
 
Looking at the schematic, Fuse F16 supplies the front wipers and the front screen wash supply.

Similarly F15 the rear screen and wiper.

On my 95 Mav, doing only a wash cycle, ie wipers off, also triggers a wipe of the front wipers.
Looking at the schematic, it also supports this, as the same feed that supplies the front washer pump also goes to a small electronic control unit, that does a wipe cycle.

So the control stalk switch feeds the pump directly, no relay, and also same wire triggers the wipe.

So if when you press the washer only, the wipers don't go, and the wipers work normally when switched to the wipe position, then I would be fairly certain that the switch is faulty.

Wiring wise, the washer pump has a permanent 12 volt feed via F16, violet wire, the other side of the pump, pink wire, is grounded to earth via the stalk switch.

The wiring on later vehicles could be different, so check the colour of your wires.

Hope it helps,
best regards
Richard (Rustic).
Thanks for that Rustic, my T2 is a 1994, so I would imagine it's wired the same as yours. When I operate the wash function I get the wipe action correctly, but no wash i.e. pump not running, which eliminates F16 (if that was faulty I wouldn't get the wipe action either) - starting to look like the switch assembly - bummer! I think before I start ordering parts I'll have a visual check on the wiring around the switch, long shot but worth a go. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for that Rustic, my T2 is a 1994, so I would imagine it's wired the same as yours. When I operate the wash function I get the wipe action correctly, but no wash i.e. pump not running, which eliminates F16 (if that was faulty I wouldn't get the wipe action either) - starting to look like the switch assembly - bummer! I think before I start ordering parts I'll have a visual check on the wiring around the switch, long shot but worth a go. Thanks again.

No not the switch at fault, as it correctly triggers the wash cycle.

I would go to the pump, one wire is always live when ignition on, the other goes to ground ( 0 volts) when the washer button is pressed.

You could of course swap over the connectors for the front and rear pump, to see where the fault lies.

If it is the pump, don't buy second hand:doh might last a month, but you end up buying new at less than £7 anyway.
Note:- if you buy a replacement pump, you might find you have to mess with the connection terminals. 1/4" fast on connectors will do.
 
Hi again. It's the wash cycle that I don't have, I get the three wipes when I operate the wash mode but no wash. There is no 12v at the pump connector whether the wash cycle is enabled or not. I will try swapping the plugs as you suggest, I might also try running a wire from the battery+ to the pump and one from the other side of the connector to earth.
Thanks for your continued assistance.
Cheers Bruce
(Terranical)
 
Hi again. It's the wash cycle that I don't have, I get the three wipes when I operate the wash mode but no wash. There is no 12v at the pump connector whether the wash cycle is enabled or not. I will try swapping the plugs as you suggest, I might also try running a wire from the battery+ to the pump and one from the other side of the connector to earth.
Thanks for your continued assistance.
Cheers Bruce
(Terranical)

12 volts should be live on the pump connector all the time the ignition is on.
So could be a faulty connection.:thumb2
 
Does that count as MOT failure in UK if the headlight washers dont work?

Just curious
 
Does that count as MOT failure in UK if the headlight washers dont work?
Just curious

Off topic, but if you have these hid headlights, ie modern with new cars, then it is essential that you have headlamp wash, as dirty headlights can cause glare, so it would be a failure on those.

Doubt it would be an issue if standard head lights though.
In the same area as additional driving lights are not part of the test.
BUT how they operate or their position might be.
 
Off topic, but if you have these hid headlights, ie modern with new cars, then it is essential that you have headlamp wash, as dirty headlights can cause glare, so it would be a failure on those.

Doubt it would be an issue if standard head lights though.
In the same area as additional driving lights are not part of the test.
BUT how they operate or their position might be.

Cheers rustic, I guess it is still on topic just, although he is abroad :augie
 
12 volts should be live on the pump connector all the time the ignition is on.
So could be a faulty connection.:thumb2
After rechecking the voltages at the pump connector block, found I do have 12v with ign on (I was connecting the meter across the 2 terminals, when I connected across positive to earth the 12v was there, as was an earth continuity check from the other terminal). So pump is u/s. I've pm'd cncfabs to see if he has one, in the meantime thanks for your help, I would still be struggling otherwise!
Now it's just the split drive shaft boot, the snapped rear drop link, the non-working boot light and the drastically worn discs to sort - heigh ho!
 
If you end up buying an after market universal pump be careful how you connect the water pipes. When my washer pump went I fitted an after market as a temp fix to get it through mot which it did twice :doh. Trouble is it was dragging water through the old pump as I just cut pipe and stuck it in there. However it struggled to pump water through and eventually burnt out anyway at which point I did what I should of done and sent a PM to cnc:thumbs.
 
If you end up buying an after market universal pump be careful how you connect the water pipes. When my washer pump went I fitted an after market as a temp fix to get it through mot which it did twice :doh. Trouble is it was dragging water through the old pump as I just cut pipe and stuck it in there. However it struggled to pump water through and eventually burnt out anyway at which point I did what I should of done and sent a PM to cnc:thumbs.
Thanks for that, I have ordered an aftermarket one as a stopgap, I'll keep an eye on it but I'm hoping cncfabs can come up with a genuine Nissan/Ford one one.
 
Mind you my original pump was the single type that pumps both ways so you get front or rear, dont know if it had some valve arrangement which restricted flow or not.
 
After rechecking the voltages at the pump connector block, found I do have 12v with ign on (I was connecting the meter across the 2 terminals, when I connected across positive to earth the 12v was there, as was an earth continuity check from the other terminal). So pump is u/s. I've pm'd cncfabs to see if he has one, in the meantime thanks for your help, I would still be struggling otherwise!
Now it's just the split drive shaft boot, the snapped rear drop link, the non-working boot light and the drastically worn discs to sort - heigh ho!

You are most welcome, it's handy having the wiring diagram for the earlier model.

:thumb2
 

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