No heat

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are you getting much pressure coming out of the vents?
could there be a blockage after the matrix in the tubes which lead to the vents?
 
No, the airflow is just fine. I'm completely baffled. I'm going to empty the system tomorrow and refill it after a flush. And replace the thermostat too. I'm clutching at straws now, to be honest

Could the heater pipes be hot because there is a small amount of flow but not enough to make the heater blow hot air, just slightly warm.

The pipes are too warm to hold for very long, but I'm going to flush them through to see if the flows is as it should be
 
Just checked again after a run. The radiator top hose is too hot to touch, but the lower one is cold . . . . .

Knackered thermostat then. Why the hell didn't I think to check that earlier??? What a numpty :eek:: sly
 
Next question. . . . .

Where the hell is the thermostat on a 3.0??? I took off the top hose, expecting to find it under the housing, but nothing :nenau

Bleddy thing!
 
Just checked again after a run. The radiator top hose is too hot to touch, but the lower one is cold . . . . .

Knackered thermostat then. Why the hell didn't I think to check that earlier??? What a numpty :eek:: sly

that is about how it should be, if your stat was stuck closed you would boil very quickly, cold or cool on the bottom hose shows the rad is doing its job, if your stat was stuck open then top hose would be a lot cooler and bottom hose would be similar temperature, Rick
 
Just from the feel of the hose. Absolutely solid. You know how usually you can feel the fluid move if you squeeze a hose? I didn't feel that at all . . .
 
Just from the feel of the hose. Absolutely solid. You know how usually you can feel the fluid move if you squeeze a hose? I didn't feel that at all . . .

Mmmm not valid in this case hose is hard cos of pressure and the flow rate at idling is negligible, if you have hot in and hot out on your heater hoses then no heat is being taken at the heater, this points to no air flow through the matrix, Rick
 
Engine was off when I checked it. I'm tearing my hair out with it, I really am. There's definitely air going through the matrix as it lies in the path of the main airflow from the fan. And the flap is working fine, so on 'hot' all the air is passing through the matrix. . . . .and the matrix is getting warm, so at least SOME coolant is passing through it :nenau

I just found out the thermostat is tucked in underneath the alternator on the 3.0l too. That's going to be a screaming bitch to get to :(
 
Right, this is getting really weird!

Took out the thermostat and tested it earlier . . . . nothing wrong with it.

Checked the matrix for flow. . . .nothing wrong with it.

Flushed the system. . . . no crap in it

Ran the truck without it for a while to see what effect that would have. As expected, the truck took an age to get warm, and was over-cooled. Still nothing from the heater.

I'm going to put the thermostat back in. I'm clutching at straws now. I'm even wondering if the water pump is faulty now :nenau
 
Think I may have solved it. I've checked absolutely everything, and it appears everything is ok save circulation. The matrix is getting warm, as the coolant heats up throughout (which puzzles me a bit as you'd think I'd get at least some heat) There's no blockage in the system as I can push water through everywhere with the hose, so it looks as though it's down to the water pump. But again, that puzzles me as the truck's not overheating. . . . . :nenau
 
Think I may have solved it. I've checked absolutely everything, and it appears everything is ok save circulation. The matrix is getting warm, as the coolant heats up throughout (which puzzles me a bit as you'd think I'd get at least some heat) There's no blockage in the system as I can push water through everywhere with the hose, so it looks as though it's down to the water pump. But again, that puzzles me as the truck's not overheating. . . . . :nenau

When water pumps fail, they generally just leak, or the fan fails to spin as the viscous coupling has failed.

I can't imagine a water pump failing in such a way it doesnt pump water:nenau

Slipping fan belt? or maybe the feed pipe has deteriorated ie the inner has broken away, partially blocking the pipe. this has happened before, but on clutch slave cylinder flexi pipes.
 
It's all I can come up with, now. I'm not 100% certain it's the pump either, unless the shaft is just spinning without turning the vanes? I'm loathe to strip though, as I just don't know. The truck's been running fine for weeks though. The heater's stopped working a wee while ago, but I wasn't concerned as I was sure it'd be an easy fix. That'll learn me, hey? :nenau

The heater matrix top hose was becoming warm, but the lower one wasn't heating up. I could feel the heat move along the pipes though. I took off the lower hose and ran the engine to see if water was flowing, but nope. I then flushed every pipe & hose and they all ran free. I'm baffled. Absolutely baffled.

Belt's tight and not slipping. Viscous fan coupling is ok, too.
 
It's fixed itself. After all that head-scratching, taking stuff to bits, putting it back together again, and sheer bafflement, the bloody thing's fixed itself. It must have been airlocked . . . .

One of those 'shake your head' moments
 
It's fixed itself. After all that head-scratching, taking stuff to bits, putting it back together again, and sheer bafflement, the bloody thing's fixed itself. It must have been airlocked . . . .

One of those 'shake your head' moments

Now tighten all those jubilee clips, take it for a run, check for leaks, and leave it all alone lol...

With jobs like this, it's nice to know the club are supportive and behind you.

Now what Antifreeze have you put in, :nenau as the system takes 10 litres?
I flushed mine several times dropping the bottom rad hose, and running the engine in between, now, this way, you can only get 5 litres out, so I bought 5 litres of concentrate, which should be diluted 50/50 that went in... and bingo, you have a clean system, with the correct concentration good for a tough winter lol...
PS I didn't try to unscrew the drain plug on the engine block.... I had an idea that might just shear off, then you have another big problem lol..
When I did it that way, I didn't get any airlocks.
Hope it helps,
Rustic
 
With jobs like this, it's nice to know the club are supportive and behind you/QUOTE]

It's been very much appreciated! I've just put cheap Halfords concentrate in for now, diluted 50/50 :thumb2

Thanks very much everyone! I'm really grateful for all your help and advice :clap
 
With jobs like this, it's nice to know the club are supportive and behind you/QUOTE]

It's been very much appreciated! I've just put cheap Halfords concentrate in for now, diluted 50/50 :thumb2

Thanks very much everyone! I'm really grateful for all your help and advice :clap

I hope it was the right cheap stuff as using the wrong antifreeze is bad for your engine, I was told use green antifreeze so I use Comma green.
 
It's fixed itself. After all that head-scratching, taking stuff to bits, putting it back together again, and sheer bafflement, the bloody thing's fixed itself. It must have been airlocked . . . .

One of those 'shake your head' moments

Deffo must have been an air lock, when I did the stat and water pump on the Maverick I ran it round the block with the rad cap off and then put it back on when the car was cold and all was fine :thumb2
 
Weird one, for sure. I could understand if I'd changed anything, but the heat just gradually disappeared without any other obvious symptoms. As the weather was warm, and I anticipated a busted cable clip it didn't really bother me . . . .then it threw me for a loop :nenau :lol :lol
 

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