Newbie from Finland with a few dumb questions

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Small update, offroad shop emailed me. Problems with the importer, locks won`t be arriving til sometime at february. No worries, bit of a bother driving with RWD only getting stuck here and there occasionally but nothing a shovel and a bag of grit can`t solve so far (been hella cold here lately, currently at -13.5c, was -23 when I left for work this morning)

Truck`s been working as expected and it`s really growing on me, totally loving this thing! The last car I`ve had that induced this level of enthusiasm in me was an Alfa GT and I`ve been through a LOT of cars. Sure it has it`s faults you cannot buy a 21 YO car and expect it to perform flawlessly but so far I have very little to complain about. When the temp gets a bit less brutal gonna need to address that throttle whistle/idle pump issue with a bottle of start spray to see if I can spot a leak somewhere but I`fairly certain this one will be a keeper.
 
Hey guys back again after a small hiatus now as a fully paid member. Shortly after I swapped the manual freewheel locks on, the truck developed what I`m hoping to be a front wheel bearing tap. It`s too thirsty to daily at work so I`ve let it sit for a good while unused, but now the Fiat van decided to start losing gears (hopefully a transfer linkage issue) I decided now that I have a four day free weekend I`m gonna try to repair the Nissan and ordered a front wheel bearing kit. Just downloaded the workshop manual and holy moly there seems to be a TON of crap inside the front hub! Some sort of a lock nut too (seems like a castle nut?), hopefully it`ll open with a punch drive and a hammer, I think I may have suitable pliers I can do the final tightening with. Wish me luck!
 
Hi mate, jack it up and remove the wheel, brake pads, and drive hub, then you will be able to asses the bearings properly, if you get a wheel bearing kit make sure the seal is included, they are pretty much impossible to get on their own, the bearings are easy enough to change, any problems get back on here, Rick
 
Just printed out the hub assy bomb pic, seems fairly straightforward. I`m assuming I gotta remove the entire steering knuckle to get the drive shaft out and get access to the inner bearing. The kit I ordered is a FAG kit that has an O-ring, and two different sized seals with metal "cups", however in the bomb pic I can see THREE seals (A,B and C) so that`s a bit of a head scratcher but I`m assuming that will get sorted in the next couple hours one way or another.

EDIT: scratch that now I get it, the knuckle stays on and the hub comes off then just replace bearings, the third seal is behind the knuckle on the driveshaft and will not be touched
 
Here is a pic of the hub, nut, lock ring and screws and the tool I made to fit the nut from an old box spanner, iirc it is 53mm between ctrs
 

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This is the only seal on the hub re bearings, you do need one of these as they get damaged on removeal, Rick
 

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Prepare thyself, for thee will laugh, hard...

There's nothing wrong with the wheel bearing. The wheel itself however was hanging on for dear life!!! Several nuts finger tight, the rest already on their way off! What was stranger still was I also noticed the allen bolts that are holding the freewheel lock bodies on the hub were also all either very loose or already partly threaded out, even though I tightened them to spec torque! The AVM assembly instruction spesifically said NOT to use threadlock when assembling the lock units but I thought F that noise and did so anyway now (loctite 243), however only on the M8 allen bolts and left the small torx screws that hold the cap on dry.

Shakedown run done, all's well in Nissan land apart from hurt pride from not checking before and a 90€ dent in my wallet. Oh and also noticed I'll be needing fresh brake pads shortly.
 
All is well then after all, lucky it did not decide to come off when you were driving, close call I call that, Rick
 

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