new member

[maverick fox]

hi guys,
just joined, so new to the forum, and pretty much to 4x4's.
had a terrano before, tho not for too long as got screwed on it so this is my second foray, which hopefully will go better!

 

[Terranical]

hi guys,
just joined, so new to the forum, and pretty much to 4x4's.
had a terrano before, tho not for too long as got screwed on it so this is my second foray, which hopefully will go better!

Welcome to the madhouse, we're a pretty friendly bunch on here, with a wealth of knowledge between us.
I'm sure you'll find you get your £10 membership fee back many times over, fixing problems yourself that would either take forever to diagnose or, horror of horrors, have to take it to a garage for repair.
When I joined I thought my front drive shafts were on their way out, I had a horrible graunching, knocking sound on full lock - not drive shafts, just a blob of grease on the four steering stops - cost? Nothing! I was prepared to spend £400 replacing the drive shafts!

 

[maverick fox]

Welcome to the madhouse, we're a pretty friendly bunch on here, with a wealth of knowledge between us.
I'm sure you'll find you get your £10 membership fee back many times over, fixing problems yourself that would either take forever to diagnose or, horror of horrors, have to take it to a garage for repair.
When I joined I thought my front drive shafts were on their way out, I had a horrible graunching, knocking sound on full lock - not drive shafts, just a blob of grease on the four steering stops - cost? Nothing! I was prepared to spend £400 replacing the drive shafts!

i had something similar! when i first bought mine. everytime i reversed in a turn the rear wheels jammed and juddered! garage didnt have a clue, but a fellow 4x4er told me about changing the rear axle oil....and i havnt had a prob with it since!
will definately be joining membership, as heard good things about the club, and i could do with a few helping heads, as things never run smooth :doh

 

[rustic]

i had something similar! when i first bought mine. everytime i reversed in a turn the rear wheels jammed and juddered! garage didnt have a clue, but a fellow 4x4er told me about changing the rear axle oil....

I hope you used Limited slip diff oil and not standard hypoid oil.:nenau

These trucks are easy and generally cheap to repair.

Best car I have ever owned:thumbs

Welcome to the club.

best regards,

Rustic

 

[maverick fox]

ohh yes, made sure it was ltd slip diff oil.
its a nice enough truck, although not sure if ive a good one or not, dont know if it should be more powerful, and ive a probelem with the immoblizer and engine light which is worrying but she gets me up and down hills, and im hoping to go and enjoy the adventures of offroading.

 

[stinka]

Power down: If its a diesel your maf could be fooked, do u have egr valve ? Bin that if so

 

[maverick fox]

no, its a 2.4 petrol, decided on that as do short hops so diesil would have been even less economical.
seems to lose grunt uphills

 

[makeitfit]

no, its a 2.4 petrol, decided on that as do short hops so diesil would have been even less economical.
seems to lose grunt uphills

How do you figure that :nenau Diesel miles better mpg and it'll run on chip fat :clap
Get the fault codes me thinks.

 

[clivvy]

still check the MAF, they dont last forever. What year/mileage is it?

have you checked the basics-fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, injectors etc?

your electrical issue should be fixable, but you need to read the codes for some clues. could be the immobilser or a bad earth etc, so thats worth looking at too-earth straps to engine/chassis and so on.

 

[maverick fox]

How do you figure that :nenau Diesel miles better mpg and it'll run on chip fat :clap
Get the fault codes me thinks.

well ive tried running enigines on oil before and ended up knackering them, plus a lot of driving is literally done in under 5 mile hops - wouldnt give diesil enough time to warm up.

 

[solarman216]

no, its a 2.4 petrol, decided on that as do short hops so diesil would have been even less economical.
seems to lose grunt uphills

Welcome mate, 2.4s are my area, first check your maf, it is on the side of the throttle body, three screws and a plug. look on the top of the two elements if dirty either spray with switch cleaner or similar, or wipe very gently with cotton bud and alcohol or similar, let it dry before refitting, the EGR will almost certainly be passing if not wide open, the best cure is insert a thin copper gasket between the inlet manifold and the EGR, it is mounted on the rear of the manifold with a SS pipe going to the exhaust, expect to need to remove some bits to gain access, check your ignition timing with a strobe/timing light at idling it should be 10 BTDC the first mark on the pulley is 5 deg after TDC this test has to be done with the throttle position sensor disconnected, listen to the engine at cold startup after standing overnight, if it rattles prior to the oil light going out, most likely timing chain slider foofed, do it sooner than later as if the early type eats into timing case with nasty results (extreme case),or it could be the big ends but no big deal go on for ever in this state, anything else just give me a shout, Rick

 

[maverick fox]

its a 1997. had 88000 on clock when bought, around 92000 now.
done standard check, nd tried the program code, but no hazards and light flashes like crazy.

 

[clivvy]

good, hopefully the mileage means your timing chain is ok but as Rick said, listen for it on first start in the morning just to be sure. Rick knows his stuff, so id try to do what he suggests and report back!

 

[maverick fox]

cheers, il check the maf, dont hve the tools to check timing or codes.
either left overnight or been running all day she fires up within about 3-5 seconds, nice and smooth - if she dosnt stall.

 

[solarman216]

its a 1997. had 88000 on clock when bought, around 92000 now.
done standard check, nd tried the program code, but no hazards and light flashes like crazy.

did you use paper clip to momentarily short two pins on the diagnostic socket? Rick

 

[clivvy]

stalling..you say.

does it stall when warm, or at any time?

i think you really need to read the codes, you could go do it now, and report back!

 

[maverick fox]

no, wheres the diagnostic socket? not familiar with the engines im afraid

 

[solarman216]

it is a 14 pin socket under the drivers side fuse/relay board, holding the socket with the chamfers to the right, link the bottom two left hand pins for 2 seconds then count the flashes on the engine check light 5 plus 5 is no codes found, come back with any other numbers you get, Rick

 

[Dynamics]

Welcome Mate. The 2.4 is a cracking engine. Mine has full service history (I have every every invoice from new) but it still felt a.bit flat.

I gave it a right good service changed distributor cap, rotor Arm, leads, plugs were fitted new last service, air filter, and I have a fuel filter to fit after I have cleaned the fuel system.

Now pulls to red line easily, with gobs of torque.

I will try the things Rick has suggested above on mine too.

Got absolutely loads of jobs I want to carry out, but I can't find the spate time at the moment.

I hope you get it sorted soon, so you can really start enjoying it.

Brian.

 

[maverick fox]

Cheers rick and brian, will try reading codes today, and also look at servicing those parts.
it only seems to cut out on occasion when 1st started, and the engine light will flash.
roars nicely but although will chug happily up hills slow in low gear, has no guts up long ones in higher gears