New abs sensor, abs light still on???

[rockymtnslayer]

Hi guys, so today i finally altered the existing abs wire mounts to fit the new sensor which is shorter than the original.

Anyway after fitting i test drove the car, after 2 minutes the abs and brake warning light went out then a few miles later the abs light came back on again.

I realise i should of checked the reluctor ring thing for damage but forgot, i also havent cleared the fault codes so could this be the issue?

Thanks again in advance.

 

[jims-terrano]

Which sensor and where did you joint the wires?

 

[don simon]

Mine is on permanently. I had the gizmo on the car the check the fault code and sure eought it flagged up the sensor, it was changed and the light went off.
It has since come on and stayed on.
The other issue was brake judder in that the pedal juddered rather than the discs. That has stopped but the light has stayed on.
Doesn't help solve, but it's not really a real world problem if the brakes are working ok.

 

[Blocky10]

Not sure if it would make a difference on Nissan but did you disconnect the battery?

 

[solarman216]

Mine is on permanently. I had the gizmo on the car the check the fault code and sure eought it flagged up the sensor, it was changed and the light went off.
It has since come on and stayed on.
The other issue was brake judder in that the pedal juddered rather than the discs. That has stopped but the light has stayed on.
Doesn't help solve, but it's not really a real world problem if the brakes are working ok.

Except it is a MOT fail, the judder was the ABS kicking in, Rick

 

[rockymtnslayer]

Its osf abs sensor.

Didnt cut the cable in the end just re routed the wire and altered the brackets. Its fine on full travel each way. The brake pedal does push back/judder occasionally still. I drove it home the long way and this happened a few times.

Its only the abs warning light this time though? Strange that it went out for a while completely tho. And its dodgy as feck when the peddal kicks back

Mine is on permanently. I had the gizmo on the car the check the fault code and sure eought it flagged up the sensor, it was changed and the light went off.
It has since come on and stayed on.
The other issue was brake judder in that the pedal juddered rather than the discs. That has stopped but the light has stayed on.
Doesn't help solve, but it's not really a real world problem if the brakes are working ok.

 

[solarman216]

Its osf abs sensor.

Didnt cut the cable in the end just re routed the wire and altered the brackets. Its fine on full travel each way. The brake pedal does push back/judder occasionally still. I drove it home the long way and this happened a few times.

I would be checking the routing of that cable, could just be it is a bit tight and pos pulled the connector or strained the wire, Rick

 

[don simon]

Its only the abs warning light this time though? Strange that it went out for a while completely tho. And its dodgy as feck when the peddal kicks back

I did have the brakes checked by the local garage and they found nothing and I've had no mot advisories (or mentions).
You can push though the judder or release and re apply and there's drop off in performance.
The obvious caveat here is that I am talking about my brake problem & yours could be completely different.

 

[macabethiel]

ABS light

Most vehicle will re-set the ABS when key removed but might be worth trying a battery disconnect just in case the ABS control module is unusual.

I am assuming you used genuine Nissan sensors as aftermarket ones can be a bit iffy. Lastly of course is check the reluctor rings for corrosion. Those on my old Santa Fe were split so had to have a new one fitted on one side. The fault used to come and go according to road speed.

 

[rockymtnslayer]

Yeah i used nissan genuine parts, have just checked the cable and it is fine at both rnd with no pulled out wires etc. I didnt check the reluctor ring but i do need to regrease my hubs so will check when they are off.

 

[rockymtnslayer]

so after checking all the wiring and connections all seems fine, the abs seems to only kick in at lower speeds. 30mph and slower and when you need to stop haha. Now i have taken it to a garage who recon it might be the wheel bearing on the way out? would it not just be the reluctor ring? if it is going to be a wheel bearing is that going to be crazy expensive? bit skint this month. i have removed the fuses so at least its still useable. thanks in advance,

 

[jims-terrano]

Jack your car up without taking your wheels off check for movement. Obviously support the car dont rely on the jack. Grab the tyres at half past twelve and then quarter to three and shake to see if you can feel any movement.

Front bearings easily adjust.

Personaly i find it hard to believe the garages diagnosis.

 

[rayf3262]

so after checking all the wiring and connections all seems fine, the abs seems to only kick in at lower speeds. 30mph and slower and when you need to stop haha. Now i have taken it to a garage who recon it might be the wheel bearing on the way out? would it not just be the reluctor ring? if it is going to be a wheel bearing is that going to be crazy expensive? bit skint this month. i have removed the fuses so at least its still useable. thanks in advance,

There should be a circlip on the end of the half shaft to prevent it from moving.
If this is absent (and it would appear they sometimes are!) then the half shaft along with the reluctor ring can drift away from the sensor.
With fixed hubs this only requires removing the dust cap to check, others will be able to explain better the arrangement with auto hubs.

 

[solarman216]

There should be a circlip on the end of the half shaft to prevent it from moving.
If this is absent (and it would appear they sometimes are!) then the half shaft along with the reluctor ring can drift away from the sensor.
With fixed hubs this only requires removing the dust cap to check, others will be able to explain better the arrangement with auto hubs.

Spot on there Ray, wheel bearings could be completely shot but on the front would not affect the shaft and reluctor ring, but missing circlip would, fixed hubs just remove the dust cap as Ray says, Auto hubs remove the 6 allen bolts and hub the circlip should be holding the brake ring in place, Rick

 

[rockymtnslayer]

Okay so i have auto hubs. Once i remove the hub if theres no circlip does anyone have the part number? And what do i torque the allen bolts back upto? Will do this tomorrow any report my findings. Cheers again lads

 

[solarman216]

Okay so i have auto hubs. Once i remove the hub if theres no circlip does anyone have the part number? And what do i torque the allen bolts back upto? Will do this tomorrow any report my findings. Cheers again lads

If you have no clips let me know and give me addy etc and I will post a couple to you, as for torque just do them up till they stop then no more than 1/8 turn, Rick

 

[rockymtnslayer]

Cheers rick! Will send you some beer money of course!

 

[rockymtnslayer]

There was one circlip on the outside of the auto hub but none inside as seen here? Theres a groove but no circlip? Is this correct?

 

[rockymtnslayer]

Or should there be one there too?

 

[rockymtnslayer]

So i using electrical contact cleaner on the old abs plug, still on my way home the pedal would kick back at random braking below 30mph. Now with the circlip being attached after the auto hub face plate is back on i recon it doesnt need one inside or does it? If not all it leaves is the reluctor ring being damaged. Wheel bearing felt fine? Sorry guys my limited knowledge stops here haha