Needle lift sensor resistance value ?

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stinka

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Any idea on what it should be?

Also crank sensor ?

And can you test maf this way ?

Thanks
 
Maf can be tested and should be a liner voltage rise I think with revs. The ckp on mine was meant to be in the range of 900 ohms. The No! I have no idea, but checkoput the manual 'cause those figures are there I'm sure :thumbs and how to test :thumb2
 
Maf can be tested and should be a liner voltage rise I think with revs. The ckp on mine was meant to be in the range of 900 ohms. The No! I have no idea, but checkoput the manual 'cause those figures are there I'm sure :thumbs and how to test :thumb2
Brilliant cheers mate

Cheers for that mate, so around 100 ohms :)
 
Ok, replaced crank sensor with one I got from plank, this was 853 ohms, the one I took out was 1050 ohms and magnet was covered in swarf, but no difference to running :/

Needle lift was 120 ohm

Maf was increasing voltage from 4.53 v to 6 v odd when revved on spot, so more than likely ok, well it's doing something any how

What next guys ?
 
Forgotten the problem now :augie tell me again, go on , before I get totalled :lol
 
2 problems :

1:

intermittent loss of power, sometimes instant, sometimes creeps up as a gradual tail off of full power, either way quick flick off ignition off and on restores it

2:

mass grey smoke/ missfires, on start up. only stopping when warm. excessive black smoke generally when warm
 
2 problems :

1:

intermittent loss of power, sometimes instant, sometimes creeps up as a gradual tail off of full power, either way quick flick off ignition off and on restores it

So many options, needn't be electrical either, like fuel filter?

2:

mass grey smoke/ missfires, on start up. only stopping when warm. excessive black smoke generally when warm
Glow plugs and or g/p solenoid/timer.
Turbo boost smoking , hmmm, could be pointing to fuel pump maybe :nenau
 
All gp new by me and Is power to rail until relay clicks off etc

It's fuel IMO

Injectors out and cleaned next I think

Then fk knows :p DON'T SAY PUMP AGAIN PLEASE :doh:rolleyes::(
 
Fuel filter new twice in last 3 months, new fuel lines, tightened all fuel clips up
 
have you tried a different fuel filter, As there has been problems in the past with dodgy fuel filters.
 
Just took injectors into the specialist in town. Needed a 5 ft breaker bar to crack them off :p
 
The MAF o/p should be around 1.8~2.2 volts at idle speed, rising to around 4.4~4.8 volts at around 3000RPM.
If the o/p is over ~2.8 volts at idle that is not correct, and will probably cause over fuelling.
Also it should defiantly not exceed 5 volts under any circumstances!
 
The MAF o/p should be around 1.8~2.2 volts at idle speed, rising to around 4.4~4.8 volts at around 3000RPM.
If the o/p is over ~2.8 volts at idle that is not correct, and will probably cause over fuelling.
Also it should defiantly not exceed 5 volts under any circumstances!

new maf required then :thumb2
 
Ok,
Maf was increasing voltage from 4.53 v to 6 v odd when revved on spot, so more than likely ok, well it's doing something any how

What next guys ?
If the MAF output signal was 4.53 to 6 volts, was from from idle to > 2800 rpm, then your MAF is unwell!
 
Could you have damaged maf when you removed the
Mesh did the problems start after you fitted the snorkal
 
Possibly. Will refit injectors when I get them back next week. Then order maf ;)

After all the cleaning of the intercooler I have noticed fresh oily marks around where core joins off side shoulder/reservoir bit, this was apparent today after taking off to remove injectors. So this explains my blue smoke issue :)

Recore the intercooler and I'll be there I reckon :p
 
when i changed the maf on mine think mine is a bosch i got it from main dealers £80 ish last year didnt think price was bad for dealers and at least it was pucker part
 

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