Near side lower (rear bush mount) mounting

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Seadog

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Anybody help? NS front lower (rear bush suspension component) MOT Fail corrosion both sides!! Where exactly is it & how do I fix it?

Anybody had any problems with these.
 
You may be better going back to the MOT tester and getting him to either point out to you which part it is or perhaps mark the item for you.

Jim
 
Sounds like he's talking about where the part circled in red mounts to the chassis - it attaches to the lower arm where I have circled green - so the rear mount for the lower wishbone/arm. Unless that looks obviously correoded as Jim says you may be better going back for him to show you exactly where he means.
 

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Thanks. It looks like the lower wishbone rear mounts corroded, the one thats welded to the Chassis.
Wiil the complete front suspension will have to be removed in order to gain access to the area? The car is old but was given to me by my brother so I will try and save it as all of the family likes the old thing!
 
You can split it as shown in the big diagram above - undo the big nut on the end of the rod before, undoing the two bolts that hold the rod to the arm.

I'm afraid theres nothing availabel to buy to weld in so you will have to fabricate bits and pieces as requires.
 
Thanks Terranosaurus, the compression rod on both sides looks misaligned, it looks like this has caused the suspension to drop. I will remove them 1 at a time and see whats happening. I cant see loads of rust but the washer plates are corroded and the rubbers are crushed. It looks like this could cause a knock on effect.
 
thought pete makeitfit had some washer style plates made up

give him a shout. i got bushes here for sale (Polly bushes )
 
I had to make some up in my mate's monster hydraulic press thing:eek:
However I've since found you can get large size core plugs for tractors that will do the job. You just need to drill a big hole in the middle:thumbs
 
i'd doubel check that. when mine failed, it failed ont he same thing both sides. then in Feb i had it re-mot'd, and it passed, with only an advisory for those two parts. hmmmm.....and i know he tested it right, cos me and mi mate watched him!:thumbs
 
More problems! I removed the compression rod and bushes. The sleeve for the rod and bush had worn through and has elongated the hole in the chassis mount itself either side on the mount is a welded bracket to receive the bush which has corroded away so choice is new mount and ££z from nissan or replating. Oh dear!!!
 
That's exactly what happened to mine. Ask your blacksmith to squash some huge washers in his press. That's the cheapest way OR some big tractor core plugs:cool:
 
Exactly how big you need those washers ?

I have some big f off stainless ones.
 
did you weld the washers onto the chassis as it looks like the sleeve on mine would slide up and down the oval hole.
 
did you weld the washers onto the chassis as it looks like the sleeve on mine would slide up and down the oval hole.
Yep welded the boogers to the chassis with a slightly bigger hole than the bottom arm diam. :cool:
Darwin the washers need to be about 90mm diam and a hole about 25mm. They need to be that big so they can be deformed enough in the press to make the cup shape:thumbs
 
Cheers lads Im determined not to let this beat me! Incidently What type of tractor for core plug?
 
Hello, i seem to hev the same problem in my terrano, as shown in foto.

One cheap solution ( don't no if final ) was to put 2 cooper washers( one in front and other on the back) in each rod. they said 4 mm thick, I think that's a lot but no wealding needed, so it's cheaper.


( sorry if I misspelled any word )
 

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Copper washers don't sound a very good solution - they'll soon wear as too soft.

Also they are acting as a 4mm spacer which will add extra castor to the front suspension geometry - again not a ood idea really.
 
The movement is mainly a twisting action but it also pivots slightly and in 2 planes at that, hence the use of the rubber bush. The ideal solution would be a spherical bearing, but the noise transmitted by these type would not be acceptable for a road going production vehcle.

X-Eng's X-Joint for use on Blandrovers looks like it has potential to be modified and incorporated in the front end of a Nissan but its a lot of money to shell out for an experiment - would certainly help with the front end articulation - wouldn't gain any more flex butit would move more easily and not bind up so much at the extremes of travel.
 

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