NATS confusion

[makeitfit]

Having a struggle starting my old 2.7 TDi It's been neglected for a couple of years now.
I suspect I may have a security NATS issue. All the electrics have been removed, refitted and altered all over.
What should the little red light be doing with the key in and ignition on etc ?

Engine turns over but only fires with a sniff of easy start :nenau
Just trying to eliminate stuff

 

[Paff]

Well, I would of thought if it has tried to fire it won't be an immobiliser issue :nenau

 

[makeitfit]

Well, I would of thought if it has tried to fire it won't be an immobiliser issue :nenau

That's easy start though.
Should the MIL come on at ign on before start ?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

When I was having issues the other day, I noticed the light flashed slowly until you turned on the ignition, where it then stayed off.

Hope that helps...

Just as a side, did you see my post the other day when I was having issues getting mine to start, after I had run the battery flat. Might be worth a try?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Opps, sorry, just realised you said MIL... I thought you were talking about the red alarm LED.

The MIL comes on when you turn the key, and goes back out almost immediately, even before you even get to the start position, if you have waited for the glow plug light to go out.

 

[makeitfit]

Hmmm, I think I must have something undone still :augie
No MIL at all and no GP light, but I assumed that was part of my solenoid issues.
The little red light was flashing on the dash but didn't check what it was doing while cranking
What's the link to your starting issue ? My battery has been off the truck for years :lol

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Hmmm, I think I must have something undone still :augie
No MIL at all and no GP light, but I assumed that was part of my solenoid issues.
The little red light was flashing on the dash but didn't check what it was doing while cranking
What's the link to your starting issue ? My battery has been off the truck for years :lol

Are you sure you are not working on Ryans truck...:augie

Here is the link, it was only the other day.
http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24274

I will try and make a point of checking the exact sequence tomorrow, unless someone has done it before me, but when I was having the problems starting mine the other day, I was checking everything, and was surprised just how quick the MIL went out after you turn the ignition on, as I was looking for it, in case it was reporting anything, and had to physically look to find it on the dash because it went out so quick.

 

[makeitfit]

Are you sure you are not working on Ryans truck...:augie

Bloody cheek, I won't give up on mine 'Tis a simple " left something off" no doubt :lol Just need to rack my brains as to what I haven't putback on yet/properly :doh

I'll look at your thread now, cheers

 

[RJL Services]

when my battery went flat it would not start on a new battery so i sprayed some easy start in air intake and she fired up straight away the ecu goes into funny mode and a few people who have failed to get theres to start after battery faults have done the same and it works it seems to reset the ecu back since i have done it she fine now just did not want to give nissan any money unless i had too but all nissan said they need to do was reset the ecu and big bucks but i tried this and the easy start worked a treat and saved me going to nissan:thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

I've always been mean on the easy start , but on this occasion I feel a generosity attack coming up

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Wow, when you do these things from memory, it amazing how wrong you can be....

This is the sequence on my car...

Open car door, and red "Alarm" LED on Dash is flashing a brief flash every 2 or 3 seconds.

Put keys in ignition, Dash LED still flashing.

Turn to first position... Dash LED still flashing.

Turn Key to second position, dash lights come on, and RED Dash LED stops flashing, and stays off.
within a fraction of a second, the abs light goes off, so quick, you barely even see it on unless you are looking at it.
A few moments later the Airbag light goes out.
Then glow plug light goes out. (When the engine is warm, these two often swap)

MIL stays on until you actually start the car.

Now then, all this assumes that what everyone refers to as the "MIL" is the Amber "Check engine" light. If not, I have no idea, as I have never seen a "MIL" lamp on my car, and so not know where it is.

 

[AlexD333]

If the engine has been stood for a couple of years id turn the engine by hand :thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

If the engine has been stood for a couple of years id turn the engine by hand :thumb2

Good point Alex, but I did do pre turn over protocol :thumb2 GPs out ,cylinders loooobed with diesel over night, then WD40. Following that a quick blip on the starter and all was well. Spinny over anyway

That devil called work stopped play again for the mo, but will check my connections again at the weekend.
Lazy, thanks for the info. I've been driving old skool for years and completely forgotten about red light goings on.

 

[solarman216]

had not realised it had been stood for so long, does it sound normal on spinning over ie got compressions or does it spin faster than normal = poor compression = bad/stuck valves etc, if if sounds normal and only fires with ether then suggests no derv, to test crack a pipe and spin no derv = pump not delivering = poss imobiliser, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

had not realised it had been stood for so long, does it sound normal on spinning over ie got compressions or does it spin faster than normal = poor compression = bad/stuck valves etc, if if sounds normal and only fires with ether then suggests no derv, to test crack a pipe and spin no derv = pump not delivering = poss imobiliser, Rick

I hadn't realised how long it's been either, the wife did though :augie I'm to move it off the drive apparently, and soon :surrender
It spins over as expected, compression test done and three at about 400 psi and one was down at 200, but after 5 cycles of tests is going up each time. That cylinder is at 300 now and I hope that's a sticky / worn valve.
I ran out of time at the weekend but will crack off an injector next.
I've got no MIL on ign or GP light either. I think there's a security issue and or a plug not refitted maybe.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

what does "GP" stand for?

 

[solarman216]

I hadn't realised how long it's been either, the wife did though :augie I'm to move it off the drive apparently, and soon :surrender
It spins over as expected, compression test done and three at about 400 psi and one was down at 200, but after 5 cycles of tests is going up each time. That cylinder is at 300 now and I hope that's a sticky / worn valve.
I ran out of time at the weekend but will crack off an injector next.
I've got no MIL on ign or GP light either. I think there's a security issue and or a plug not refitted maybe.

Getting late, but GP light??? Rick

 

[makeitfit]

Glow Plug light is not on the dash at all. Changed solenoid but not got as far as meter checks yet .

 

[solarman216]

Glow Plug light is not on the dash at all. Changed solenoid but not got as far as meter checks yet .

yep sounds like you have missed a plug or two, or cut something out you should not have, I remember Swifty when converting a motor for a banger, cutting wires and testing each time by starting and reving that he had not cut something needed, long labourious proces on the first of a model after that he could remember which wires were needed, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

Cheers Rick. As I suspected really. I need to concentrate on it this weekend