N/S front wheel stiff

[kitchenman]

Hi all, I jacked up the front to remove the wheel to check pads, I have had the Mav 4 years so must be getting low.
I tried to turn the hub, it was solid, I levered the caliper away from the disk a bit and that sorted the problem
I thought, OK take out pads and check everything, looked at manual 'remove lower bolt and tip up' No way so I removed the upper bolt, still would not move.
To clarify the bolt was adjacent the rubber boot which I guess is part of the slider pins.
So I am stuck how do I get the pads out.
The bolts I removed take a 13mm spanner and there is a hex adjacent the boot 19mm which rotates so if it is the slider pin it is not seaized.
There does not seem to be a workshop on front pads, if there is, a link please folks:bow:bow:bow
Is there a page in the manual that shows the slider pins?

 

[Ogri]

Is this of any help?

 

[solarman216]

the two bolt to remove the pads are marked 31-38 in the pic they screw into the slider pins which if not seized will need an open end 17 mm spanner once the bolts are out the piston assembly slides off of the disk leaving the pads in the carrier, you will need a method of pushing the pistons back if fitting new pads, even if not it will make putting it back easier, I use a G cramp, Rick

 

[kitchenman]

Hi Guys, thanks for the quick reply, I had the drawing printed off but was stuck not understanding the way to get the part I have removed the bolts from off the caliper,
with Ricks description I should be OK, getting dark now and wet, will get on with it first thing.
In the mean time I am getting a new set of pads and some of the correct grade of grease.
I will keep a close eye on the fluid level, when I worked in a garage in the 60's we had a car in for new pads, the bonnet was open the filler of the master cylinder was off, the forman took charge, discs were pretty new then, he forced the pictons back into the cylinders, the fluid hit the underside of the bonnet and proceeded to remove the paint from the wing, his face was a sight to behold after years of nagging about taking care, he suffered taunts for weeks after that.
Thanks again I will take pictures in case it will help others, I can normally figure thing out with the help of the exploded drawing but get well stuck on this one, I blame 'oldtimers' I think my three score and 15 is begining to tell:doh:doh:doh

 

[kitchenman]

the two bolt to remove the pads are marked 31-38 in the pic they screw into the slider pins which if not seized will need an open end 17 mm spanner once the bolts are out the piston assembly slides off of the disk leaving the pads in the carrier, you will need a method of pushing the pistons back if fitting new pads, even if not it will make putting it back easier, I use a G cramp, Rick

Rick when you say it slides off the the disk, I guess from the exploded drawing the slider pins need to be removed first, I had removed the bolts 31-38 and nothing wanted to move, but the parts with the 17mm flats turned OK, and slid in and out a bit.
Which direction does it slide, away from the centre of the hub? the drawing suggests the carrier rotates around the top slider pin.
Am I right in assuming I need to lever the carrier away from the disk to evercome the 'grip' the pads have on the disk
During the 'post mortem' I think that was why nothing moved:doh

 

[solarman216]

no need to remove the slider pins, if the wheel is hard to turn then you may have a seized piston, just lever it towards the rear of the car, when pushing the pistons back just loosen the cap and have a hose or water can ready and wash it off then no problem, also BF does not attack modern paints so readily as older paint, Rick

 

[elty001]

I always remove the brake fluid resivour cap the put a small plastic bag over it and hold it place with an elastic band to catch any fluid that overflows when the pistons are pushed in.

 

[kitchenman]

Thanks to all

Hi all, simple when you know how:doh
I was stunned how easy it was, I recon the problem was the fact that one pad had broken in half so the caliper was on the skew
Anyway all sorted now, one thing puzzles me, the fluid level in the master cyclinder reservoir did not change much, as I had pushed the pistons all the way back I expected a rise in levels. Pedal is solid and wheel turns by hand now,
I checked the brake drag force before putting the pads in I got a reading of 3.75 KG on my luggage weighing thingy, after the pads were in I go a reading of 12KG but the pads are rubbing on some rust on the disk at the edges of the pads, I will try again after a week. page BR-27
I will do the other side after the sun gets further west and warms up the parking area I live on the east side of a n-s road so OK after noon
Once again thanks for all the input, best tenner I ever spent.:clap:clap

 

[rustic]

Hi Kitchenman, where were you measuring the force? was it from the wheel studs?

The force will be different depending if you have auto hubs, or fixed hubs.
If auto hubs, make sure the drive shafts aren't turning.

The force when the brake pads backed off, are part due to the bearing force, and this is the proper way to adjust the bearings.

So also check wheel bearing play.

Rustic

 

[kitchenman]

Update

The drivers side was a doddle, except the lower slider was seized, not wanting to push luck with a long lever I used a ring spanner and gradually got it to turn, whew
Modified a crow bar to push it out while rotiating it, loads of sweat and WD 40 later it came out
I have pics if wanted just ask.

 

[perelaar]

Dave, I wouldn't mind those pictures - if the parts arrive on time, I'll be changing the discs/pads this weekend...

Thanks in advance!

 

[kitchenman]

PM me

 

[kitchenman]

calipers

Hi all, when I changed the front pads I found the pistons very very hard to force back, I listened to Rick and used a 'G' cramp.
Should the pistons move fairly easy? My petrol Citroen CX and BX pistons moved back by hand perhaps with a small bit of help from a screwdriver hardly any force compared with the Mav
The reason I ask is the wheels are hard to turn.
I removed the wheels and needed a lever to rotate the hub, my reasoning is the bores of the cylinders and the pistons are caked in crud stopping the pistons moving back to relieve pressure on the disk
Would it be worth my while to remove the calipers and clean the pistons and cylinders and fit new seals?
The Mav is in for a new exhaust on tuesday I am getting them to change the DOT3 while it is on the lift, being a bit of a wimp with side steps I prefer to go to work [in the warm] to pay the labour rather than spend several hours on my back in the cold this time of year