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kitchenman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
1,278
Hi guys, I use dash cams in my Maverick no problem running on USB adaptor. The 12V in 2 x 5V out gadgets

On my motorcycle Bandit 600 I get an error message , write error, same camera, same adaptors if I power the dash cam from a USB back up battery it works fine.

After the write error message the clock is wrong, right date wrong time

I suspect I have some a/c on the 12V dc messing up the dash cam electrics, the dash cam works fine after the error message if I put it in the Maverick

What size capacitor should I put across the battery to smooth this out?

My phone goes wrong some times too

I have a relay triggered by the oil pressure switch to turn the electrics on with engine running to avoid a flat battery
 
As guide, I normally work on 1000uf per amp. With a minimum capacitor voltage of 25 volts.
In the positive feed I would probably fit a 3 amp diode, then a 1000uf or 2000uf capacitor, then take the supply to the dash cam.

You can also consider using small chokes too.

There could be noise on the earth return too.
Hope it helps.
Rustic
 
Thanks for the update, could you please draw me a sketch, with polarities shown?
 
Sort out the bike's electrics ?

kitchenman;338576 I suspect I have some a/c on the 12V dc messing up the dash cam electrics.[/QUOTE said:
If you have some a/c output on your bikes 12 volt system would it not be worth sorting out the rectifier on the bike or if that is ok a bigger capacity battery ?
Sounds like problems for the future on your bike electrics if you don't only a matter of time before the battery has issues and any electronic ignition /bike ECU systems start to fail if its generating a/c in the main wiring loom.
 
a/c is only a guess, the dash cams work fine on the car, the bike electrics have been checked and is deemed OK
 
a/c is only a guess, the dash cams work fine on the car, the bike electrics have been checked and is deemed OK

Okay if you connect your devices without the engine running but with the ignition on does it still show a fault on the dash cam ?
 
In order to avoid leaving stuff on and running the battery flat none of this stuff works until the oil pressure switch opens, this turns on a relay and powers the stuff, BUT if I run the stuff from a USB back up battery it all works fine and the same camera runs fine in the Maverick
I just need a diagram of how to wire the stuff mentioned by another member
 
This is probably close to what Rustic was suggesting:
1A diode shown would possibly suffice, but a larger (3A) or more is a better choice.
 

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Thank you, I will buy the bits and build that today
I will report back after the Sunday ride out:thumb2:thumb2
 
In order to avoid leaving stuff on and running the battery flat none of this stuff works until the oil pressure switch opens, this turns on a relay and powers the stuff, BUT if I run the stuff from a USB back up battery it all works fine and the same camera runs fine in the Maverick
I just need a diagram of how to wire the stuff mentioned by another member

If I understand you right your are activating the relay via the oil switch circuit I suspect this is the cause of a fluctuating reduced voltage not any a/c issues. I am thinking that instead of a proper ignition feed to the camera you are getting a reduced voltage as it's going through the oil pressure switch wiring system and this is not giving a clean switching supply in the relay. Imagine if you will a trembling effect in the relay circuit as it tries to operate the relay.

The trembling effect would give way to a back e.m.f. to try to maintain the circuit hence the a/c fault.

Just my thoughts.
 
I am using the oil pressure switch going to open circuit to close a relay

It goes like this, ign on, relay opens [it is a change over relay] ign goes to relay coil, coil is grounded by the oil pressure switch, oil pressure switch opens when pressure rises as engine starts, cuts ground to coil, relay closes and fires up my toy's electrics

There is a moment when the toys are live, there is a delay from ign on until my relay opens, this is not long enough to turn on the dash cam

When the relay is closed there is 12V straight through

I could draw a diagram if any one is interested, but I am sure you get my drift.

I previous version has the relay turning the toys on, some are lights, I wanted to reduce battery drain, this suffered from the same electricary problem
 
I am using the oil pressure switch going to open circuit to close a relay

It goes like this, ign on, relay opens [it is a change over relay] ign goes to relay coil, coil is grounded by the oil pressure switch, oil pressure switch opens when pressure rises as engine starts, cuts ground to coil, relay closes and fires up my toy's electrics

There is a moment when the toys are live, there is a delay from ign on until my relay opens, this is not long enough to turn on the dash cam

When the relay is closed there is 12V straight through

I could draw a diagram if any one is interested, but I am sure you get my drift.

I previous version has the relay turning the toys on, some are lights, I wanted to reduce battery drain, this suffered from the same electricary problem

Got you very ingenious so my last post does not apply. Still can't see why you are generating too much a/c if that is the issue. The diode should sort it though.
 
Bummer, problem still there, so it can only be vibration and the card contacts, thanks for the drawing and suggestions, if I ever find a fix I will update here
 
You said it worked with a USB backup battery.... was this while on the bike? As this ought to rule out vibration.
Another possibility may be ignition/spark related.....
 
Hi, it did work OK with USB battery but unfortunately only round town, it is also OK round town with the new power set up, seems to go wrong during a run when engine is revving a lot, these bikes love 7K+ RPM.
My next move is to try to get an anti vibration mounting, I am determined to crack this problem, may just take a while.
 
My next move is to try to get an anti vibration mounting, I am determined to crack this problem, may just take a while.

As a thought, if you can find a scrap CD/DVD player they often have the deck mechanism mounted on four oil damped rubber mounts, they look a bit like a blind rubber grommet, some have M3/M4 fixings either side.
Here's a sample pic:
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1Y.kqKFXXXXa_XVXXq6xXFXXXf/2pcs-lot-font-b-Damper-b-font-for-Clarion-6-disc-CD-changer-font-b-mechanism.jpg
 
Brilliant, I happen to have an old DVD player in an old PC I will check it out

Thank you
 
Maxtek Aldi software glitch in camera

Hi Guys, many thanks for all the help I got, the fault even shows when in my car
I phoned the company who accept there is a write error glitch in the firmware.

So all the time it was others at fault, & there was me blaming my 'oldtimers'

They tell me there is format software which will overcome the problem, I will try it when they send me a link to it.

If that fails I will use the sale of goods act to get my money back
 

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