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solarman216

Off road maniac
Club Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
17,416
well my motor failed today, after all the welding Swifty did including a big hole under the rear of the 2nd row seats rear NS (double skin at this point) he made a really good weld job on this both from the top and under, and osr seat belt point under wing, totally shot but cut out the complete section from the scrapper and welded it in, plus drop links, exhaust, steering box adjustment , etc, so what did it fail on? imbalance of the brakes both front and rear, overall performance was OK but axle wise they were bad, strange thing is on driving home I repeated the normal test of hands off steering wheel and heavy on the brakes, and it drifted only slightly to the nearside, what I found was the osf caliper was siezed on the pins, and the nsr had oil contamination, plus the handbrake cable had been adjusted right up but not at the drums, all now sorted, hand brake like never before, retest tomorrow, Rick
 
hmmm...not too bad thn?

your hand brake issue....i wonder if thats my issue too? had my rear shoes done ages ago, i wonder if they didnt adjust the handbrake too...anyhoo!
 
hmmm...not too bad thn?

your hand brake issue....i wonder if thats my issue too? had my rear shoes done ages ago, i wonder if they didnt adjust the handbrake too...anyhoo!

the auto adjusters are just rubbish, the only way is to remove the drums and do it manually from time to time, problem is if you have a wear lip on the drums it wont work, I ground mine off with a mini angle grinder, and no I do not think that I have created stress raisers that may split the drum, you need to be able to just ease the drum on after adjusting but slack the HB cable at the lever first, you need to remove the HB consol cover to do this, after adjusting both drums then adjust the cable at the HB lever, and all should be well, Rick
 
the auto adjusters are just rubbish, the only way is to remove the drums and do it manually from time to time, problem is if you have a wear lip on the drums it wont work, I ground mine off with a mini angle grinder, and no I do not think that I have created stress raisers that may split the drum, you need to be able to just ease the drum on after adjusting but slack the HB cable at the lever first, you need to remove the HB consol cover to do this, after adjusting both drums then adjust the cable at the HB lever, and all should be well, Rick

as you know so much on adjusting the handbrake,,,,,,can u do mine lol
 
I do mine twice a year, once just a week before the MOT :thumb2

The auto adjusters simply don't adjust, slacken handbrake cable at the handbrake lever, then take out as much as possible at the drum, then tighten at the handbrake.

Clean both drum and shoes with brake cleaner.
 
this is a good bit of advise for ALL T2 owners, put it on your calenders or in diaries, Rick
 
sounds like a good idea for a weekend get to gether all ajust are brakes, then go on the lash with a barbi the fall into ya tents.
 
sounds like a good idea for a weekend get to gether all ajust are brakes, then go on the lash with a barbi the fall into ya tents.

I like your style, put me down for some barbie action :naughty
 
how do u fall into a tent? i've fell into a hedge, bush , garden, road, never fell into a tent though, attepted to open one and fell on it :lol
Oh I've slipped into a bush too :naughty but those tent things have too many flaps for my likinhg:lol
 
Thats it, all done and dusted for another year, the only problem I have now, is after changing the rear diff oil it seems to jump at very slow speed, never noticed it before so wondering if it the Fuches oil that I used it does not say lsd on the can but I was assured that it is, time will tell, Rick
 
I would of only stuck it in if it said on it.

Do you mean jumping when turning sharp corners slowly?
 
I would of only stuck it in if it said on it.

Do you mean jumping when turning sharp corners slowly?

no this is the odd bit it does it straight ahead, so it may not be the diff, untill Swifty arrives and listens while I drive it is hard to tell, other possibilities are prop shaft UJ but it really makes the rear axle jump but only at creaping speed, Rick
 
I am baffled at the mo, I first noticed it coming back from the NOT shop coasting to a stop at traffic lights, felt like I was going over light rumble strips so tested it in the yard and looking out of window at osr wheel I could see it twitch a little, any way had some jobs to do so left it a while and as Swifty has not turned up thought I had best have another look, with the door open leaning out I was convinced that the wheel nuts were loose, omg how could I have missed that, but no all tight, now here is the really strange bit, at the end of the day thought I would have another look, and I cannot get it to do it now, only when warm? what difference could that make? will run it about tomorrow and have another go, I am still thinking diff oil, it was supplied by opie oils Fuchs Titan Race SYN 5 75w-90, which after long phone chat said was LSD oil, Rick
 
Well took it for a run today, and it gets worse as it warms up, it has to be the diff oil, checked the wheel bearings and the UJ's on the prop, all OK but what I cannot get my head round is it does it straight ahead, both rear tyres are the same with the same amount of wear, have tried it with a bit of lock on to compensate for different rolling radius of wheels but no different, now going to try local factors for labeled LS diff oil, and change the oil again, will report later, Rick
 

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