MOT Failure sheet

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11redrex

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
1,375
Well, it failed. Got to decide whether to fix and keep it, sell it as it is, or break it.

Nearside repeater not working (bulb)

Nearside front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play **DANGEROUS**

Offside outer Trackrod end ball joint has excessive play

(on steering box arm) Ball joint has excessive play

Nearside anti-roll bar has excessive play in a pin/bush

(all pipes going to load valve) Brake pipe excessively corroded

Rear (axle x2) Brake pipe excessively corroded

Not too much, but they won't give me a price for the brake pipes as they said they won't know until they get stuck in to the job. I can probably do all the joints myself. Regarding the one mentioned on the steering box, that'll be on the drag link won't it ?
 
I got an advisory on brake pipes last June, please update on cost or how you did it etc:bow
 
brake pipes usually just need a clean with wire brush/wool and wipe over the joints with a little greese to stop rusting again

rest is your drop links and steering relay bar,

whats that 100-130 quid. should all go through on a free retest within 10 days
 
I HATE it when a garage cant give a price "until they get stuck in"...BALLS!! they do this kind of stuff everyday, fannies.
 
Well, it failed. Got to decide whether to fix and keep it, sell it as it is, or break it.
Nearside repeater not working (bulb)
Nearside front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play **DANGEROUS**
Offside outer Trackrod end ball joint has excessive play
(on steering box arm) Ball joint has excessive play
Nearside anti-roll bar has excessive play in a pin/bush
(all pipes going to load valve) Brake pipe excessively corroded
Rear (axle x2) Brake pipe excessively corroded
Not too much, but they won't give me a price for the brake pipes as they said they won't know until they get stuck in to the job. I can probably do all the joints myself. Regarding the one mentioned on the steering box, that'll be on the drag link won't it ?

Did you notice some slight drifting side to side while you were driving it.?

I always have a check on my ball joints or something like that :augie quite regularly, and a final check before the MOT, so was this wear a surprise to you?

It doesn't sound that expensive, there is nothing you can do with things that wear out, other than replace them.

Brake pipes, ok a bit of waxoyl earlier on would have helped to prevent this, but with older vehicles there's not much you can do.

If the chassis is good, the gearbox is good, and the engine runs fine, it sounds like you should have another year or more of cheap motoring.
Mine has cost me £6.50 this year:doh the expense.
 
brake pipes

i would advise you to replace the brake pipes due to corrosion as rubbing them down will reduce the thickness of the wall of the pipe which could then fail under heavy braking
 
IF they are indeed corroded :augie They often look minging and the tester isn't allowed to have a quick scrape around. So check and clean if sound :cool:
 
Discussed the brake pipes with the garage, he said they're really badly corroded, nuts and everything. I haven't been under there to have a look. They do a lot of 4x4's down there and I trust them.
Noticed play in the various joints but needed a fail sheet to know exactly what and where.
Priced the joints etc up at £100 all in (cheaper if Lammy's drag link fits). Never done brake pipes. Can they be replaced with flexible hoses, like motorcycle braided hoses ?
 
if that was my car i would consider saveing it. ball joints and drop links etc are cheep and i had almost all my breakpipes replaced for 120 quid.. its all about how good the rest of the car is

then find a friendly mot station for next year
 
Well, it failed. Got to decide whether to fix and keep it, sell it as it is, or break it.

Nearside repeater not working (bulb)

Nearside front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play **DANGEROUS**

Offside outer Trackrod end ball joint has excessive play

(on steering box arm) Ball joint has excessive play

Nearside anti-roll bar has excessive play in a pin/bush

(all pipes going to load valve) Brake pipe excessively corroded

Rear (axle x2) Brake pipe excessively corroded

Not too much, but they won't give me a price for the brake pipes as they said they won't know until they get stuck in to the job. I can probably do all the joints myself. Regarding the one mentioned on the steering box, that'll be on the drag link won't it ?

Discussed the brake pipes with the garage, he said they're really badly corroded, nuts and everything. I haven't been under there to have a look. They do a lot of 4x4's down there and I trust them.
Noticed play in the various joints but needed a fail sheet to know exactly what and where.
Priced the joints etc up at £100 all in (cheaper if Lammy's drag link fits). Never done brake pipes. Can they be replaced with flexible hoses, like motorcycle braided hoses ?

problem solved then !
 
fix it keep it

for a few quid you can buy new pipe from halfords and the unions while your there pick up a brake pipe flaring tool and make your own, easy job. did my not so rotten pipes that go over the real axle for my mot last nov
 

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cant remeber

i think there were only 2 sizes in halfords so i bought both took the ones i didnt need back for refund
 
Got all the joints ordered, off to the shop to get the pipe and onions tomorrow.

The pipe that goes along the back axle looks easy enough. There's one going from the central joint to the thing on the right rear wheel, it's half flexi pipe and half copper, could I replace that with flexi all the way ? Also the one coming from the wheel "thing" going forwards is marked, looks like one long section. Is it ?
Having to get some of this done from my computer chair as I feel like puking every time I stand up .:(
 
doctor dave says

pukinh when you stand up i had that inner ear infection lybrinthitus. if you can just cut out the rotten part of the long pipe and replace with new no point doing it all and if the other is half copper half flexi then i suspect you can just get a replacement from a local factors
 
Think I got food poisoning in weymouth last week :(

I arsume you can get unions to join bits of pipe together ? I'm really tempted to clean it all up and cover it with copper grease, on the basis that if I don't go through it cleaning it, it's sound enough for now ?
 
I don't think you want to use too much flexi pipe, as it will add some sponginess to the brakes as the rubber in the flexi is compressed.

That's why they keep it to a minimum..:thumb2

Quick question, since I have owned my Mav for nearly 17 years, and it has got through every MOT, what does a fail sheet look like.?:nenau:nenau:nenau

:lol:lol:lol

I'd better shut up, or I might find out in May....:eek: :lol:lol
 
Think I got food poisoning in weymouth last week :(

I arsume you can get unions to join bits of pipe together ? I'm really tempted to clean it all up and cover it with copper grease, on the basis that if I don't go through it cleaning it, it's sound enough for now ?

id say 90% of cars ive mot'd and sold on, only needed cleaning of the copper pipe and painting of the metal parts . but hey :augie
 

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