More help needed please

[AlexD333]

Howdy all, still experiencing strange symptoms, all be it a lot more minor now...

Previously the car had lost a lot of power but only when 60mph was reached then she would pulse and go no further...

I changed the maf sensor - more power but little change same symptom up high

I changed the fuel filter, instant power was restored and seemed to be perfect even hitting upto 90mph

So on the way to the pay n play Sunday we must have been on the motorway for 10 mins doing about 70mph, then engine light came on.

Pulled over, checked new fuel filter and sure enough it was still loose on housing top as when I tilted it it leaked out the top.

Tightened up at pay n play, when we left I had new symptoms of no power down low and general lack of power, I then found a very muddy air filter and housing, we cleaned this out and turned round the filter, this cured it although still sluggish.

I have now replaced the air filter too, just been for a cruise :naughty

Seems speedy again but still an initial lag on set off like a "bogging" and when you reach around the 2.5k mark you get a kick up the arse in power (before it was smooth delivery) and on motorway tonight engine light came back on at about 80ish and again felt like she wanted to go no faster... :doh

I'm really lost with this whole thing now..

The tech at work told me today "oh mate I forgot to tell you, I plugged in my reader and checked the codes on yours" (from before new fuel filter) it gave a code of p02f4... :nenau he had to remember this code for quite a while and was worried if one of the numbers at the end might now be wrong :augie

Google suggests this is some sort of injector code... But as Ray mentioned fuel filter and fueling issues flag up injector codes so not convinced.

Lastly this symptom was temp fixed when the fuel filter was replaced, then seemed to return several days later on way to pnp :doh

Long winded babble over any suggestions :duno:

 

[zippy656]

Cps

Down back of block on bell housing

 

[AlexD333]

Cps

Down back of block on bell housing

In english please?

 

[zippy656]

Crank position sensor

 

[solarman216]

You need to check the latest code but suspect No 1 injector Rick

 

[AlexD333]

You need to check the latest code but suspect No 1 injector Rick

Well I'm all up for accepting that but even though a fuel filter seemed to cure it for a few days? 150 miles before reoccurrence? :nenau

 

[zippy656]

You need to check the latest code but suspect No 1 injector Rick

Ooh, forgot that one

 

[Sweety]

Clear the codes & then take truck for a spin so the light flags up again then read your fault code:thumb2 been telling you to do this for ages because the code the tech has read could be years old:doh
CPS is the crank sensor & is at the top of the bell housing behind the cylinder head if you go to check it with a multi meter the plug socket for the CPS is on the O/S of the engine near the dip stick:thumbs oh BTW i'm on about the dip stick to check the engine oil not the one behind the steering wheel:lol:lol:naughty

 

[AlexD333]

Clear the codes & then take truck for a spin so the light flags up again then read your fault code:thumb2 been telling you to do this for ages because the code the tech has read could be years old:doh
CPS is the crank sensor & is at the top of the bell housing behind the cylinder head if you go to check it with a multi meter the plug socket for the CPS is on the O/S of the engine near the dip stick:thumbs oh BTW i'm on about the dip stick to check the engine oil not the one behind the steering wheel:lol:lol:naughty

Lol cheers, I will ask him if he can clear codes and start again. Very strange symptoms, I diagnose people's cars all day when they come in but I don't understand this atall.

 

[Sweety]

Lol cheers, I will ask him if he can clear codes and start again. Very strange symptoms, I diagnose people's cars all day when they come in but I don't understand this atall.

Don't get the tech to do it:doh get a paper clip or bit of wire & do it all your self or get your other half to do it for you it'll take 2 mins to do:thumbs code 55 will come up if there isn't any codes stored on the ECU. If you have sucked up some dirty water into the engine it's poss it's damaged your nice new MAF

 

[AlexD333]

Don't get the tech to do it:doh get a paper clip or bit of wire & do it all your self or get your other half to do it for you it'll take 2 mins to do:thumbs code 55 will come up if there isn't any codes stored on the ECU. If you have sucked up some dirty water into the engine it's poss it's damaged your nice new MAF

How do you clear, what and where do you bridge?

 

[Sweety]

You should have the later plug being an 04 plate if you look up under the drivers side of the dash there will be a black plug (14 pin I think) use paper clip etc & bridge the lower left & right contacts, turn ignition on & the MIL light will flash count the flashes & you get the code (it's all in the down loads but that shows the earlier plug 16 pin I think it is) it also tells you how to clear the codes:thumbs cleared mine straight away so if MIL comes on again I know the code I get is a new one not something that has been stored on the ECU for god knows how long:augie It'll take you longer to find a paper clip etc than to read & clear the codes:lol

 

[solarman216]

Sorry my. Connection is down and am getting on via tabnlet and !phone hopeless as cannot see unless I enlrge then I have to scroll and my big fat dry fingers do not hoit the right buttons.Rick

 

[AlexD333]

Bottom left and bottom right, bridge, then turn ign and count flashes?

 

[elty001]

The long flashes represent the 10's and the shorter quick flashes represent the 1's.
So for example code 55 would be 5 long flashes and 5 short quick flashes.
There could also be more than one code so be patient and let it cycle a few times.
There will be a short pause between each code.
Write them down and have a look in download as to what they are. :thumb2

 

[AlexD333]

The long flashes represent the 10's and the shorter quick flashes represent the 1's.
So for example code 55 would be 5 long flashes and 5 short quick flashes.
There could also be more than one code so be patient and let it cycle a few times.
There will be a short pause between each code.
Write them down and have a look in download as to what they are. :thumb2

Something tells me I wont understand :lol

I will take a video :thumbs

 

[elty001]

just simple counting mate:lol:lol
what could go wrong:nenau

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

just simple counting mate:lol:lol
what could go wrong:nenau

:lol:lol:lol Who ever thought you could see both those sentences in a post, and know because they are to Alex, know the answer is going to be bad...:doh:augie

 

[AlexD333]

Ok update chaps and chapetts :augie

Unfortunately I did not get time to touch the diagnostic side of things, we drove to a sheltered bright car park so I could fit my new number plate (as we lost mine on the pay n play)

This was funny as hell in itself... being the inexperienced chap that I am, I decided to remove the 3 bolts,on the plastic tank guard so I could drill bigger holes for the number plate bolts :augie

Little did I know the whole tank is held up by these bolts :doh :naughty

Aha, after much swearing ect, the number plate is bolted to the guard and the tank and guard is all back and fitted.

As my fuel was almost on the red I decided to fill up with 20l of diesel and test the motor, we had upto about 85mph and no engine light, but it still had same symptoms, dead spot on take off, and flat until 2500rpm when the power booms in...

Something else interesting I have noticed the car runs great when cold, all the power is there and behaving ect, once it gets remotely warm you get these symptoms

After switching off for fitting the plate and back in again, she was good as good until 30 seconds of warming up :nenau

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Have you checked the Intercooler, to see if any mud got up into it, and is blocking off the tubes? The extra boost of the turbo is then pushing past it.