MIL after limp mode

[briggie]

I downloaded and printed out the "Workshop 29. Accessing, Reading & Erasing Engine trouble codes" from the down loads section, and armed with my new Code reading cable, which has a 14 pin plug on one end, and a push button on a length of wire bridging the Ign and Chk pins, I connected up to the car....

I turned on Ignition... MIL comes on and stays on.
I press button on cable, MIL goes straight off, and while I am still pressing and waiting about 2 seconds the download says, the light starts to flash slowly..
I release the button, and the light comes straight back on...

After playing around, it would appear that my car only gives the fault codes while the button is actually pressed, and even then, in my case it is just giving 55 (No fault found)...

No I am pleased my car has no faults, but I did think that after all the playing around I have done, and the number of times I have put it into limp mode, it would have something in there. So I guess mine does not store minor fault codes... or am I seriously over looking, or doing something wrong.

Can anyone spot my mistake?

you have erased your codes accidently ?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Hi, just found this thread, funny as my terrano showed the exact symptons that day.

Differences no mods to my knowledge and always pump diesel bought.

Generally does restart ok from limp, but has been know to take 3 to 5 restarts.

Get it from cold, running cool, or sometimes warm at speed. If enough speed has
recovered without restart, coasting til recovers.

Never a mil light, 2 mot testers have pulled code of turbo boost or over boost despite
everyone saying a 2.7tdi cant give overboost.

Have had suggestions of TPS but when mot guy witnessed it still thinks its more
turbo related - has suggested a new turbo!

Any thoughts please, had suggestions of #1 injector, egr etc totally confused, Mrs
won't drive it in case does it, I know can restart it,

After my experiments, I think that it responds to overboost and goes into limp mode, but in my cars case, it does not seem to report it as an error message that is stored in the ECU.

Just as an easy check, have you checked the small length of rubber pipe that runs from the turbo to the waste gate for a leak, as this could cause this problem.

I fitted a waste gate controller to mine, which basically introduces a controlled leak to the wastegate pipe, and if I wind mine up to anything over about 15psi of Boost in normal driving and acceleration, I can make it go into limp mode on hard acceleration. To be able to drive it without going into Limp mode, I keep it wound back to 11PSI, and it is fine.

What I also discovered is, on the motorway, if I coast up behind a car say doing 50mph, when I was doing 70, and then as it pulls in to the middle lane out of my way, stuff the "Loud" peddle to the floor, even though normally I only get 11psi of boost, it will boost right up to 16psi for some reason. When I had the baseline boost set higher than 11psi, it seems to be then when it goes into limp mode.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

you have erased your codes accidently ?

Not sure, I was very careful following the instructions, but my car does not seem to have read the same manual as me.

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

Nice to know it's not just me. One morning i tad it 6 times on way to work, a40 loss of power is not fun :doh

exactly, one cold morning but on quiet suburban did it 5 times back to back, was minus
2 and seriously wondered how much more the battery would take/give.

had the fast road thing too.

cant believe anything is seriously wrong as rest of time pulls like a train.

its getting me down mrs wont drive it any more, toying with selling but
know at budget we have only buying another person's issues.

any ideas on where injector #1 comes into it, should I blank egr, are these
not connected. its only got 82k on clock, if true....

 

[briggie]

Not sure, I was very careful following the instructions, but my car does not seem to have read the same manual as me.

do I get a prize ...... or a medal ? :lol

 

[makeitfit]

Sorry just spat my coffee out, I just read the title as MILF after LIMP MODE :lol
It's been a long week :wasntme

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

Last August I had the flexi exhaust renewed.

Whilst the car didn't show this limp for almost 3 months,
could anything in that area affect, back pressures etc?

LF can that hose be replaced, is it a vacuum arrangement?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Last August I had the flexi exhaust renewed.

Whilst the car didn't show this limp for almost 3 months,
could anything in that area affect, back pressures etc?

LF can that hose be replaced, is it a vacuum arrangement?

Not sure about the exhaust, I would have thought that a blowing exhaust would be the most likely to cause the issue, rather than a replaced one, but don't know enough to be certain of that.

As for the flexible pipe, I am sure it must be, as it is only a short length of about 6mm rubber hose, but I have not had to do anything other than fit a "T" piece in mine, which I did in situ, as my turbo is only a couple of years old.

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

Not sure about the exhaust, I would have thought that a blowing exhaust would be the most likely to cause the issue, rather than a replaced one, but don't know enough to be certain of that.

As for the flexible pipe, I am sure it must be, as it is only a short length of about 6mm rubber hose, but I have not had to do anything other than fit a "T" piece in mine, which I did in situ, as my turbo is only a couple of years old.

Sorry to ask, trying to grasp how things work.

before you added the t piece/ valve there was no issue,? and vhen valve
off or no valve made leak theres no limp issues?

i wonder if mine has a split that is ok til pressure it carries is too great
then leaks then has knock on effect.

btw whilst not really into modding, what sort of increases in power
can your valve give, are there figures in terms of bhp gain?

presume the psi gains i've read of can be tabled to power at wheel/flywheel.

what are insurance implications and how does it compare to remap/chipping?

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Sorry to ask, trying to grasp how things work.

before you added the t piece/ valve there was no issue,? and vhen valve
off or no valve made leak theres no limp issues?

i wonder if mine has a split that is ok til pressure it carries is too great
then leaks then has knock on effect.

btw whilst not really into modding, what sort of increases in power
can your valve give, are there figures in terms of bhp gain?

presume the psi gains i've read of can be tabled to power at wheel/flywheel.

what are insurance implications and how does it compare to remap/chipping?

I have had a few times where I have managed to stick the car into limp mode, although not necessarily in the order they occurred...

The pipe between Intercooler and manifold not tightened.
The clips on the pipe between Intercooler and turbo were not sitting correctly on the pipe, so it was not sealing.
Switching the MAF amp either on or off, while the engine is running. (A loose wire would also cause this)
winding the Boost controller up too high.

I think that is all the things I have managed, and the good news is, when all of these things are rectified, I have no further issues until I start playing around again.

Basically, I have added a MAF amp, great bit of kit, and the lower down torque increase is very noticeable, although in my cars case, my MAF seems to already put out quiet a high voltage, so I can only wind the amp up a very small amount.

I added a boost gauge, as I wanted to see what was going on, which then resulted in me adding a Boost controller. This does 2 things, when the waste gate operates as normal, it is "analogue", starts opening as soon as the pressure starts to rise, until it is fully open when the required pressure is reached, the controller makes it more "Digital", and it stops the waste gate starting to open too soon, allowing it to only start to open when it is nearly up to pressure. This again increases the low down torque.

Since I tow a fair bit, it was the low down torque I was most interested it.

The second thing the boost controller does, is by the use of a controlled leak, increases the pressure required even more, before the waste gate will open, which effectively increases the boost. On my car, as soon as I wind this up to more than about 2lb higher than normal, the car goes into limp mode as we have already discussed.

With regards to what gain I have achieved, I really have no idea. If I had a second T2, would I bother to do it again?... I would do the MAF amp, but not bother with the boost controller, it's OK, but not sure it was worth the money for what little it does.

With regards to the insurance, I have not officially told them about the MAF amp, as when I raised it, they had no idea what it was, or how to classify it, and when I mentioned it was used to aid pulling away while towing, they said, so basically it is part of the modifications for towing, like fitting the towbar, and electrics, so will come under that, and I decided since you only really notice or use it when towing or off roading, I would leave it as that. The controller was more problems than it was worth, so it is turned off, and only the delay valve is still actually doing anything, which while it does make a small difference, again it is mainly noticeable when towing, or setting off on a hill, so I have not bothered at the moment, and will mention it when my renewal comes up fairly soon, as we will be changing companies anyway.

I have no idea how it really compares to remap/chipping, as I have never done either. I think the wastegate controller is basically a boy racer bodge, and if you really want to mass with anything, you are better off putting the funds you would have wasted on the controller, to a re-map to do the job properly.:doh

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

Wow thanks for info.

So had a look see a rubber pipe at end of actuator loops round under itself back towards turbo body.

Also appears to a a breath pipe nearby. It's sat by actuator.

There seems to be a rod from actuator to waste gate. It has a mark on it that seemed to be in same place at idle and 25 00 rpm. Was only own so may have over I between views.

 

[AlexD333]

I don't think leaking exhaust has anything to do with it. My standard system was leaking bad for ages. We lost it after the gearbox and it's been fine for many months :thumb2