mav gearbox change easy or hard

[rogan2003]

hi got the chance of a mav with a bust box,never done a box change on these,are they easy or hard,secondly has anyone got a spare box lurking in the garage if i needed one,and how much would it be cheers paul ps have a good new year

 

[terranokid]

Its not a hard job
Its a days work taking it easy but the gearbox is very heavy with the transfer box on the back.

 

[Toolbox]

Just a few pointers I put down some years ago now.

Firstly, if you are like me and do not have access to an inspection pit or a four-poster ramp, you will have to jack up and support the vehicle on axel stands. Do not support the front under the wheels or the suspension, as you have to release the suspension.
Secondly, disconnect the battery always a good safety precaution.
Thirdly make a note and mark the setting of the front suspension torsion bars. Now slacken their adjusters and remove, prize off the c clips and remove the arms from their splines. You can now withdraw both bars from the front suspension splines. Next unbolt and remove the cross member .
Fourthly, Drain the oils in the transmission, remove the rear prop shaft from the back axel and slide it out of the transfer box, be careful not to damage the seal. Remove the front prop shaft completely. ( I didn’t and found out that the gearbox wouldn’t clear the front joint.)
Fifthly, remove the clutch slave cylinder, leave the pipe on and tie it up out of the way. (no bleeding) next remove wiring breather pipes and taco drive. Inside the vehicle remove the gear stick consol and boot, remove the gear stick and unbolt and disconnect 4wd lever and remove.
Sixthly, place a jack under the rear of the engine, undo the rear mount and cross member under the gearbox and remove. Make a note of which way round the rubber mount is. Now lower the jack under the engine until the engine is almost touching the bulkhead, check the cooling fan is clear of the radiator. (mine had plenty of room.)
Support the gearbox and unbolt it from the engine. Some of the top bolts are easier to access through the engine bay, especially the one at the top of the starter motor. Now withdraw the gearbox. (Its heavy you may need help.)
Do your repair and replace in reverse order.
I found it easier to handle by putting it back in two pieces, the main box on to the clutch first and then the transfer box with gasket, on the back of that.
If you replace the clutch ensure you line up the drive plate hub with the spigot in the flywheel.
Just to add some members have not removed the torsion bars, just unbolted the cross member supporting the end of them and wedged the whole thing down with some wood blocks.

 

[rogan2003]

Just a few pointers I put down some years ago now.

Firstly, if you are like me and do not have access to an inspection pit or a four-poster ramp, you will have to jack up and support the vehicle on axel stands. Do not support the front under the wheels or the suspension, as you have to release the suspension.
Secondly, disconnect the battery always a good safety precaution.
Thirdly make a note and mark the setting of the front suspension torsion bars. Now slacken their adjusters and remove, prize off the c clips and remove the arms from their splines. You can now withdraw both bars from the front suspension splines. Next unbolt and remove the cross member .
Fourthly, Drain the oils in the transmission, remove the rear prop shaft from the back axel and slide it out of the transfer box, be careful not to damage the seal. Remove the front prop shaft completely. ( I didn’t and found out that the gearbox wouldn’t clear the front joint.)
Fifthly, remove the clutch slave cylinder, leave the pipe on and tie it up out of the way. (no bleeding) next remove wiring breather pipes and taco drive. Inside the vehicle remove the gear stick consol and boot, remove the gear stick and unbolt and disconnect 4wd lever and remove.
Sixthly, place a jack under the rear of the engine, undo the rear mount and cross member under the gearbox and remove. Make a note of which way round the rubber mount is. Now lower the jack under the engine until the engine is almost touching the bulkhead, check the cooling fan is clear of the radiator. (mine had plenty of room.)
Support the gearbox and unbolt it from the engine. Some of the top bolts are easier to access through the engine bay, especially the one at the top of the starter motor. Now withdraw the gearbox. (Its heavy you may need help.)
Do your repair and replace in reverse order.
I found it easier to handle by putting it back in two pieces, the main box on to the clutch first and then the transfer box with gasket, on the back of that.
If you replace the clutch ensure you line up the drive plate hub with the spigot in the flywheel.
Just to add some members have not removed the torsion bars, just unbolted the cross member supporting the end of them and wedged the whole thing down with some wood blocks.

many thanks paul