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tonyd

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
10
i got stuck today, had to be pulled out backwards by a tractor, infront of the best from japan, the shame.:doh:( can i make my 2.7 terr 2 sport more extreme off road, my old landcruiser 2.4 would of walked out but it had locable hubs and all the toys, how do i get my bus as good as a landy without buying a landy. i bought it to go off road, any good suggestions
stuck in the mud
tonyd
 
What's yout yres like and are your hubs auto locking and are they working? it's possible you could have fixed hubs on that age so that could be ruled out. Generally these motors are fine as standard and will give most 4x4's a run for their money.

Jim T
 
help

she is 94 with drum brakes i would like to change to disc and fit lockable electric hubs, she is as she came out of the factory. will the changes be a big help or just abig cost
t
 
Never heard of electric front hubs. Is there a reason why you want to change the hubs? hubs have been covered dozens of times on here in the past. I replaced mine with manuals.

Never heard of rear disk conversions before but that wont get you out of the mud will it?


Jim T
 
disc breaks are in the pipeline.

but
2 inch spring lift
2 inch body lift
ive got mine up to 35 inch mud tyres
snorkle

all quite cheep and easy
 
she is 94 with drum brakes i would like to change to disc and fit lockable electric hubs, she is as she came out of the factory. will the changes be a big help or just abig cost
t

I'm confused? Your personal says 2004 (which as Jim says will have fixed hubs), your OP refers to your 2.7 Sport but you also mention a 94 vintage?

Which one is it?:confused:
 
it is 2004, head fried, disc breaks wont get me out of the mud but i am told they are safer as they dont get clogged as easy in the sticky stuff. will changeing to 35s not put a lot of stress on the gearing, steering pump and driveshafts, this is a mindfield but i am up for a challenge, other that the lifts did you alter anything else for the 35s
t:D
 
Tony

On a truck as new as that I wouldn't even think about 35" wheels...not only does it require some serious body cutting but as you say, it puts a horrendous strain on steering and suspension - you would bollox your nice new truck for ever more.

And as I said, on that Mk IV you have fixed hubs, so you can engage 4WD at any speed.

Did you bottom out or something? What conditions did you get stuck in?

Best advice for a good mix of on and off road suitabilty would be as follows:

1. Remove side steps.

2. Remove towbar.

3. Make sure your nose isn't too low - if it is, wind up the torsion bars until its about 3cm lower at the front than the back (measured from floor to top of wheel arch).

4. Fit 31" x 10.5" tyres on to 15" wheels - 16" tyres cost quite a bit more - you can fit a whole range of wheels from Toyota, Mitsubishi etc...Jap 6-stud and PCD is fairly standard (lots of threads on here)...different offsets will affect whether the tyre sticks out of the arch or not, but its the largest size you can fir without getting a hammer out. General Grabber AT2s or Kumho KL71s are good all round tyres.

5. If you must, fit a 2" suspension lift kit....but TBH the above should get you a very long way indeed.....
 
Tony

On a truck as new as that I wouldn't even think about 35" wheels...not only does it require some serious body cutting but as you say, it puts a horrendous strain on steering and suspension - you would bollox your nice new truck for ever more.

And as I said, on that Mk IV you have fixed hubs, so you can engage 4WD at any speed.

Did you bottom out or something? What conditions did you get stuck in?

Best advice for a good mix of on and off road suitabilty would be as follows:

1. Remove side steps.

2. Remove towbar.

3. Make sure your nose isn't too low - if it is, wind up the torsion bars until its about 3cm lower at the front than the back (measured from floor to top of wheel arch).

4. Fit 31" x 10.5" tyres on to 15" wheels - 16" tyres cost quite a bit more - you can fit a whole range of wheels from Toyota, Mitsubishi etc...Jap 6-stud and PCD is fairly standard (lots of threads on here)...different offsets will affect whether the tyre sticks out of the arch or not, but its the largest size you can fir without getting a hammer out. General Grabber AT2s or Kumho KL71s are good all round tyres.

5. If you must, fit a 2" suspension lift kit....but TBH the above should get you a very long way indeed.....


All sound advice but not too sure about the KL71s - they seemed horrendous in snow when I was out and about yesterday. Spent ages getting a mitsi with em on out of a ditch and then safely down the lane afterwards, just about everybody else out had no trouble at all be they on MTs, ATs or even road tyres, the KL71s just didn't seem to have any lateral grip and he was just sliding sideways on the packed snow.

Had to pull a troll on ATs up the hill after he lost traction on the icey bit, slid back and then sideways across the track - too slow an approach, more momentum and he'd have made it. My simex just cut in deep and created my own little rack and pinion railway LOL. Have to admit they were rubbish on the roads when they only had a light dusting, but as soon as there was say 1" of snow they were excellent - had the outside lane on the M1 to myself on the way down, as I had more traction in the deep stuff than the "clearer" first 2 lanes
 
Interesting feedback Terra; TBH I only recommended them on the basis of peoples feedback like Makeitfit and Adz (and some apparently good writeups in the 4x4 community)....but you can't even get hold of the damn things at the moment, so I've just ordered a set of four AT2s in 31/10.5 which seem a good all-round tread.:)
 
Don't forget the arch extensions if the tyres stick out (or to be on safe side even flush) with the body.

Given probs others have had not worth the risk.:thumbs
 
i was in a stubble field frozen hard for a shooting competition, but under the frost was bog black soil. the sun came up and the field turned to soup, i just sank deeper. the advise is brilliant i will change to decent tyres i have read a lot about the bfg km2 but no sure of sizes. i read and article ages ago where a company develped locable hubs the magazine showed how to fit them, they operated by a switch on the dash, has anybody else heard of this
t:clap:thumbs
 
i was in a stubble field frozen hard for a shooting competition, but under the frost was bog black soil. the sun came up and the field turned to soup, i just sank deeper. the advise is brilliant i will change to decent tyres i have read a lot about the bfg km2 but no sure of sizes. i read and article ages ago where a company develped locable hubs the magazine showed how to fit them, they operated by a switch on the dash, has anybody else heard of this
t:clap:thumbs

are you sure you don't mean lockers, which actually lock the diff not the hubs? An LSD eventuall allows one wheel to spin whereas locked diffs (like the Patrol has) keep both wheels turning at the same speed regardless of speed.

your truck would have the front hubs locked as soon as you selected 4WD. M/T (mud) tyres might have helped but its likely as not that not much would have got out of that sort of thing to be frank, so don't feel too bad.

when you select tyres, i depends how much fast road work you do.....mud tyres would be a PITA in those circumstances.

and a set of waffle boards (ebay) might have helped you get out yourself....
 
it is lockers i mean sorry i am not a mechanic and am learning all the time, are the axles on a patrol or pickup the same as the terrano can i use the guts from their axles ie shafts, hubs with locers etc or am i pissing in the wind, is it possible to put lockerts on my terrano
:nenau
 
it is lockers i mean sorry i am not a mechanic and am learning all the time, are the axles on a patrol or pickup the same as the terrano can i use the guts from their axles ie shafts, hubs with locers etc or am i pissing in the wind, is it possible to put lockerts on my terrano
:nenau

Probably possible if you were an ace mechanic, but as you've already confessed, your bolloxd I'm afraid Tony LOL.

Your Terrano rear axle has a limited slip diff, which allows drive to go to both wheels (most of the time until its reaches its limits) but also for the two wheels to rotate at different rates when turning for example.

The Patrol doesn't have an LSD but does have a diff locker, which would be shite on the road (because it doesn't allow that slippage), but in the rough will always have both wheels rotating at exactly the same rate, regardless of whether they both had grip or not.

Hubs don't have lockers - on the MkI and MkII Terrano/Maverick they are eiher engaged or disengaged (via an internal snap ring mechanism). The later MkIII and Mk IV (like yours) have fixed hubs which are always 'engaged', and 4WD is therefore engaged/disengaged at the diff instead. Thats why your truck can engage 4WD at any speed, whereas the earlier versions can only do so at up to 25mph, otherwise the snap ring mechanism would self destruct.

Patrol owners often say they'd prefer an LSD to a diff locker.

The Patrol also has an electrically operated rear anti-roll bar that can be disengaged for better articulation.
 
thanks

i would love to build an extreme machine, but for now tyres, a shovle and sand ladders will do and i will stay out of the bog, i want to learn more and more, i used to weld for a living and have been around cars and landys for years the best thing i thik is buy a scrappy strip it and learn as i take it apart. no dobt i will be asking plenty of dumb questions in the future
cheers lads
tonyd
 
i would love to build an extreme machine, but for now tyres, a shovle and sand ladders will do and i will stay out of the bog, i want to learn more and more, i used to weld for a living and have been around cars and landys for years the best thing i thik is buy a scrappy strip it and learn as i take it apart. no dobt i will be asking plenty of dumb questions in the future
cheers lads
tonyd

No such thing as a dumb question on here mate! :thumb2
 

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