LSD not fitted or goosed ?

[extreme-4x4]

i have asked others and it turns out there are 4 different diffs for the t2 all have lsd.
but again its not going to fix right away it will need to work in . so im told

 

[makeitfit]

Agreed boy racer mode reqd for a while to work those iccle clutches hard. Donuts a gogo :lol
Tow some landies around a bit and then change it again next week :thumbs

 

[stinka]

Reading around on LSD's they tend to be worn out at 100k typical ( so I've read) now LSD fluid promotes more slip than normal hypoid diff oil, hence why when u put the wrong stuff in you get noises and tail happy odd behaviour because there is no slip on the clutch plates.

If the diff has been run for ages with standard diff oil the lack of slip/ increase in friction would most likely cause the plates to wear out.

I think it's a dead tbh guys

 

[stinka]

i have asked others and it turns out there are 4 different diffs for the t2 all have lsd.
but again its not going to fix right away it will need to work in . so im told

I take it that early axle manual and auto, then late c200 axle manual and auto ?

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

On the bright side, if yours is the later diff it will only take 1.8 litres so the experiment of trying fresh oil will be a fiver cheaper :thumb2

 

[stinka]

Already changed mate, this afternoon took 1.5 till it came out level plug, got 1.5 left

 

[makeitfit]

So is that the second change now then? :augie If not burn rubber and work your diff hard :naughty

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

I think the capacity is 1.8 so there is probably a fair bit of the wrong stuff still in there, so - fingers crossed - changing it again soon should work :thumb2

 

[stinka]

How do you pull the shafts out then guys ?

I'm presuming remove drums and there will be a hub nut, then slide hammer maybe ?

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

if you have to change it, would it be easier to change the whole axel? a member on here 'shropshireterranobreaker' might have one and he is close to Much Wenlock.

 

[stinka]

So is that the second change now then? :augie If not burn rubber and work your diff hard :naughty

I think the capacity is 1.8 so there is probably a fair bit of the wrong stuff still in there, so - fingers crossed - changing it again soon should work :thumb2

Yes, will be doing this first.

Next time I change it I will drop the back plate off and have a good look at stuff.

Will standard silicon sealer do to put it back on folks, or should I get proper automotive gasket sealer ?

 

[stinka]

If he can get me one in good nick I'd concider it and I know that area well so travels no issue

 

[Adz]

Just drop your axle as it is easier to work on

Done 3 on the Frog

I don't think its fooked personally They take major abuse before failing :thumbs I know :augie :lol learn't the hard way :doh :augie :lol

Stick with oil changes for a couple of months :thumbs

 

[stinka]

Just drop your axle as it is easier to work on

Done 3 on the Frog

I don't think its fooked personally They take major abuse before failing :thumbs I know :augie :lol learn't the hard way :doh :augie :lol

Stick with oil changes for a couple of months :thumbs

I will do mate, like i say i will drop backplate off and have a good look in there first.

 

[stinka]

What could I chuck in there for a few miles that would flush the crap out and clean it all up ? Like redex engine flush or something similar ?

 

[makeitfit]

Listerine :lol

 

[solarman216]

If you have the removable back plate version, then all is not so easy, pull the half shafts, remove the cover then the two bearing caps, now you have a lump in your hands that is just the crown wheel assembly, and you have already lost the settings between the crown wheel and pinion which is still in the axle, if you use a dial gauge and measure the backlash before removal then if you keep the same crown wheel you can (may be) adjust the bearings on reassembly to get the same backlash, but what about bearing pre load? chances are that once disturbed it while whine like mad after put back together unless it is set up correctly, oil is not your problem the diff clutches have gone, arm and a leg for new bits, Rick

 

[rustic]

When you changed the oil, what colour was it, as when I changed mine the first time, after about 40k miles it came out a thick grey sludge colour.

I changed it recently after only 20k miles and it was only slightly grey.

The grey is the clutch material in suspension in the oil.

 

[stinka]

If you have the removable back plate version, then all is not so easy, pull the half shafts, remove the cover then the two bearing caps, now you have a lump in your hands that is just the crown wheel assembly, and you have already lost the settings between the crown wheel and pinion which is still in the axle, if you use a dial gauge and measure the backlash before removal then if you keep the same crown wheel you can (may be) adjust the bearings on reassembly to get the same backlash, but what about bearing pre load? chances are that once disturbed it while whine like mad after put back together unless it is set up correctly, oil is not your problem the diff clutches have gone, arm and a leg for new bits, Rick

This is what I thought.

When you changed the oil, what colour was it, as when I changed mine the first time, after about 40k miles it came out a thick grey sludge colour.

I changed it recently after only 20k miles and it was only slightly grey.

The grey is the clutch material in suspension in the oil.

Black :/

 

[stinka]

New axle then.

Is the prop the same on all ? Will an earlier axle physically fit a late terrano ?

How do I check ratios ? And is the earlier manual diff ratio the same as the late manual c200 diff ratio ?