Loss of power / fuel starvation

[elty001]

i had a problem with mine and that was the egr valve that was seized.
took it off and gave it a good dose with wd40 and it got rid of the power loss i was getting.
also could be a cracked manifold.had that welded on mine just over a year ago and its still o.k at present.
the maf sensor is in the horseshoe shaped box on the end of the plastic air pipe that runs across the front of the engine from the air box.
take off the plastic pipe 2 hose clips and 2 10mm bolts onto top of rad.
if you look inside the horseshoe shaped box thing you will see a little wire thing(maf sensor)
sprayed mine with some contact cleaner stuff in an areosol can that i scavved off my dad.
might not be what up with yours but it could point you in the right direction.

 

[mobyone]

mate, it sounds like the coil is trout. not familiar with petrol nissans, but your describing a typical coil failure, not broken, however breaking down under load. if you bring the revs on slowly whilst stationary, it should not splutter.if you plant it, it will miss like a good'en.
leave the cat off, waste of time if you have a good engine in a good state of tune. just keep it for mot's.
the coils on most if not all zetecs fail this way, and this is a ford however i don't know if your engine is similar in its electrics being a ford/nissan.
richard

 

[mobyone]

well, i read the rest of the threads and you fixed it, ignition switch... would be one of the last things i changed. every day is a school day i suppose.
glad it is fixed
richard

 

[lacroupade]

mate, it sounds like the coil is trout. not familiar with petrol nissans, but your describing a typical coil failure, not broken, however breaking down under load. if you bring the revs on slowly whilst stationary, it should not splutter.if you plant it, it will miss like a good'en.
leave the cat off, waste of time if you have a good engine in a good state of tune. just keep it for mot's.
the coils on most if not all zetecs fail this way, and this is a ford however i don't know if your engine is similar in its electrics being a ford/nissan.
richard

Moby just so you know, Ford never really touched the guts of this truck - they were all made at the Nissan factory in Spain and its really just plastics, badges and colour chemes that differentiated the two 'models'.

 

[Muckypup]

Hmmm sorry to be the bearer of bad news... the issue is back!
Well I say its back, its actually a slightly different issue. The flat spots between 2000rpm & 3000rpm have returned and actually seem to have got worse. As Mobyone said, if you drive it gently, or whilst stationary gently press the pedal it revs up ok. Plant your foot and its a different story, intermittent power and bad flat spots.

Story so far-
plugs, leads etc all changed but didnt really help.
Old cat removed, de-cat fitted made problem worse!
Bad contact in ig switch, replaced, all but cured the issue - but after driving for a few days flat spots / intermittent power coming back and getting worse.

So, I think the old cat was causing back pressure on the engine and stopping it revving, removed it which eliminated the occasional complete power loss. Ignition switch had bad contacts sending wrong volts to places, car refused to rev past 3000. Switch replaced, car now revs all the way up.

Do you think its worth me getting hold of a new coil pack? Something is definitely breaking down under load... :doh :nenau

On the plus side, it is improving and I can feel we are close to a complete cure which when acheived I will hapilly testify on the home page :thumb2

 

[lacroupade]

Hmmm sorry to be the bearer of bad news... the issue is back!
Well I say its back, its actually a slightly different issue. The flat spots between 2000rpm & 3000rpm have returned and actually seem to have got worse. As Mobyone said, if you drive it gently, or whilst stationary gently press the pedal it revs up ok. Plant your foot and its a different story, intermittent power and bad flat spots.

Story so far-
plugs, leads etc all changed but didnt really help.
Old cat removed, de-cat fitted made problem worse!
Bad contact in ig switch, replaced, all but cured the issue - but after driving for a few days flat spots / intermittent power coming back and getting worse.

So, I think the old cat was causing back pressure on the engine and stopping it revving, removed it which eliminated the occasional complete power loss. Ignition switch had bad contacts sending wrong volts to places, car refused to rev past 3000. Switch replaced, car now revs all the way up.

Do you think its worth me getting hold of a new coil pack? Something is definitely breaking down under load... :doh :nenau

On the plus side, it is improving and I can feel we are close to a complete cure which when acheived I will hapilly testify on the home page :thumb2

Certainly sounds like coil could be an issue - serves you right for having a spark ignition engine LOL.

Sadly electrics will always be painful like this (if thats the issue) and not always obvious until you've done bit by bit replacement. probably back to the things previously suggested, dizzy cap, coil, leads, plugs etc...

 

[Muckypup]

My plan is to gas it as I have a full kit, hence the petrol engine. No point till this is sorted tho...

Changed the plugs, leads, dizzy cap etc within last 2 months whilst trying to solve this issue, that was my starting point. Looks like the coil is the next step, and not too expensive as I have been looking at non-original parts for around £30 on the net

 

[mobyone]

coil!
i was suprised when you said ignition switch fixed it. thanks for the nissan education ref mavericks.
richard

 

[Muckypup]

coil!
i was suprised when you said ignition switch fixed it. thanks for the nissan education ref mavericks.
richard

It did make a massive difference, and all but cured the issue. But as mentioned it seemed to creep back slowly over the weekend through use and now I have a similar issue to before but not quite the same???
Anyway, coil is the next step. Will report back soon as its changed :thumb2

 

[mobyone]

it could be the positive feed from ignition to coil is a dodgy connection, or if the coil has a/several ballast resistors (in circuit to run at a reduced voltage when running)
one or more might also have dodgy joints or corroded wires which might do funny things to ignition.
i would say that the passive components like wires and resistors will be fine and the coil is the culprit though. still, it is free to check the above first.
it is just you said it was all better once you replaced the ignition switch whitch would have disturbed the connections. maybe corrosion or a dodgy connector is at fault...
richard