Loss of Drive - All Gears - Terrano 2

[terranosaurusdoug]

I've an 8mtr if you need one:lol

Lucky git :lol

 

[kitchenman]

Do not forget to adjust the headlights

 

[Banshee]

Thanks Ian,

I have just followed your instructions and have 800mm (O/S) & 810mm (N/S).

Although they are quite modest differences to what it was, the truck looks much better. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow to test it.

Regards

Alan

It's always expected that the drivers side is slightly lower as there's always a driver driving but people who travel alone alot won't have any passengers with weight over that side :doh

Good work buddy, I will admit though you did make me chuckle slightly, you attempted a job that I'd deem to be one of the most challenging on a Terrano and aced it with flying colours and then get stumped out by the torsion bars :lol I have to admit when I had just adjust the ones on my Maverick after I fitted the 31's I was perplexed too, it took me 3 nights of lying on my back scratching my head before I dared lift a socket :doh :lol

 

[panelbeater]

bansheeeeeeee you sure it was your head you were scratching:augie

 

[TONUP]

Do not forget to adjust the headlights

Good point Dave. I will take a look at the adjustment next night driving. I think there is a little adjuster wheel under the dashboard somewhere

Thanks Banshee, I'm glad I could raise a smile . I'm holding back on self congratulations at the moment, as my confidence in the vehicle, which was previously unshakeable has taken a battering recently. If in the long term it all goes well this will be restored though.

Conservatively I think I spent in excess of 35 hours over 14 days doing the repair. It cost £240.00 to do which included parts, the alignment tool and jack adapter, so it doesn't owe me too much at the moment. I am naturally a pessimist though and it was a big job for a DIY(er) & relative novice.

Regards

Alan

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Good point Dave. I will take a look at the adjustment next night driving. I think there is a little adjuster wheel under the dashboard somewhere

Thanks Banshee, I'm glad I could raise a smile . I'm holding back on self congratulations at the moment, as my confidence in the vehicle, which was previously unshakeable has taken a battering recently. If in the long term it all goes well this will be restored though.

Conservatively I think I spent in excess of 35 hours over 14 days doing the repair. It cost £240.00 to do which included parts, the alignment tool and jack adapter, so it doesn't owe me too much at the moment. I am naturally a pessimist though and it was a big job for a DIY(er) & relative novice.

Regards

Alan

Mate I just want to say again how impressed I am with what you've done, flipping awesome well done fella :thumb2

 

[TONUP]

Mate I just want to say again how impressed I am with what you've done, flipping awesome well done fella :thumb2

Thanks for saying so. Did another 10 miles today!

Regards

Alan

 

[TONUP]

Bit of an update for everyone, and after driving ten miles this evening to visit my elderly parents, the new clutch has started to slip. Seems my pessimism has not let me down this time

The problem started with the clutch pedal not fully returning to the rest position straight away. Instead it lifts (what feels like) the first two thirds of travel then snaps back the the last part. In fact my foot can be fully off the pedal when this occurs.

The clutch has started to slip most noticeably when in third or fourth gear and climbing hills, especially when you apply an extra amount of revs to get up the hill. When I arrived at my parents, I put the hand brake on fully, selected first gear and lifted the clutch. This caused the engine to stall, which suggests the clutch is engaging fully.

Sorry to bore everyone with this one, but I am hoping that I won't need to pull the gearbox out again. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.

Could this be an issue/s with the slave and/ or master cylinder, air in the fluid or is there any pedal adjustment?

Regards

Alan

 

[jims-terrano]

I'd be checking the slave cylinder and also get someone to press the clutch pedal whilst you watch the flexi hose for signs of it expanding under pressure.

When you bled the clutch hydraulic system did you bleed the long pipe that goes over the rear axle, it's called the damper pipe?

 

[TONUP]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the very quick response. I must admit to being a bit disheartened at the moment, so it's really appreciated.

I didn't bleed the clutch hydraulics, but I had to save the piston from coming right out at one point. I'll put your advice into action tomorrow evening after work. Perhaps I should buy a new slave and master cylinder and flexi pipe. At least there all on the outside?

Regards

Alan

 

[Blocky10]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the very quick response. I must admit to being a bit disheartened at the moment, so it's really appreciated.

I didn't bleed the clutch hydraulics, but I had to save the piston from coming right out at one point. I'll put your advice into action tomorrow evening after work. Perhaps I should buy a new slave and master cylinder and flexi pipe. At least there all on the outside?

Regards

Alan

Sorry to hear there's trouble but before replacing things try bleeding the system. Also have you replaced the bush on the clutch pedal as I've heard these wear and mess with the pedal movement.
Don't be disheartened. It's been working fine so hopefully we'll get it sorted:thumb2

 

[jims-terrano]

Usually seen flexi and slave that tend to go along with the damper pipe. I personally haven't seen the master cylinder go as often but not saying it can't be.
There's also a bush that the clutch pedal pivots on which can cause the pedal not to return fully without assistance but I don't think this would cause the clutch to slip.

Have more confidence in your repairs, you have done an amazing job.

I reckon Solarman will be along before too long with advice too.

 

[solarman216]

first thing to check is dive under the motor and push the clutch arm back into the slave cylinder, this should be fairly easy if not then check you have a little free play on the clutch pedal, get someone to operate the clutch several times and check the slave again, if both OK then start engine and select 5 gear, hand brake on hard, heel and toe the brake and floor the throttle then drop the clutch, the engine must stall within 2 seconds or less, if not there is something wrong with the clutch, if it stalls then I would be going with Jims suggestion re the hose, what happens is it laminates off on the inside so making its own one way valve, which holds the slave onto the clutch fulcrum, this is about the same as resting your foot on the pedal, Rick

 

[TONUP]

first thing to check is dive under the motor and push the clutch arm back into the slave cylinder, this should be fairly easy if not then check you have a little free play on the clutch pedal, get someone to operate the clutch several times and check the slave again, if both OK then start engine and select 5 gear, hand brake on hard, heel and toe the brake and floor the throttle then drop the clutch, the engine must stall within 2 seconds or less, if not there is something wrong with the clutch, if it stalls then I would be going with Jims suggestion re the hose, what happens is it laminates off on the inside so making its own one way valve, which holds the slave onto the clutch fulcrum, this is about the same as resting your foot on the pedal, Rick

Thanks again Jim & Blocky and thanks Rick,

I wil try your test in the yard at work tomorrow, where it should be safer to do. Sounds extreme but I have the utmost confidence in your advice. I will report back afterwards.

Thanks again & fingers crossed

Regards

Alan

 

[jims-terrano]

When you've got this nailed you can come and fix my mg clutch:thumbs

 

[TONUP]

When you've got this nailed you can come and fix my mg clutch:thumbs

No problem, but you may have to tow me back at the rate I'm going

Regards

Alan

 

[TONUP]

This morning I got a workmate to sit in the driver's seat and start pushing on the clutch pedal whilst I was under the car watching the clutch actuation arm. The arm started to move about an inch after he started to press the pedal and appeared to travel its full length.

Whilst under the vehicle I checked for any free pay between the 'pushrod' and arm. There was none, actually, the arm was being pressed quite firmly by the push rod without any force being applied to the pedal. I was able to manually push the pushrod back and 'wiggle' the actuation arm quite easily, but otherwise, I think that the thrust bearing is constantly being forced against the tangs on the pressure plate. Whether or not it is exerting adequate force to imitate riding the clutch I cannot determine?

We also took the top off the master cylinder, which was full. Presumably, this means the system is sealed with no fluid loss or absorption of air? However, the hydraulic fluid is quite dark, verging on black almost, which I know isn't good.

I have not tried Rick's clutch drop test yet, as I really don't want anything to fail catastrophically whilst at work, I will do this at home, though after I have bled the system initially (and changed the fluid) to see if there is any improvement, and fitted the new clutch flexi pipe and slave cylinder I have ordered off of eBay today.

When I took the slave cylinder off during the clutch change I had to secure the internal piston with a cable tie, I don't know if this constant creep is normal or if it a result of a defective component.

I have also searched the threads on the forum, and it appears there may be some scope for adjustment at the Master Cylinder/Clutch Pedal mechanical joint?

Regards

Alan

 

[Banshee]

I have also searched the threads on the forum, and it appears there may be some scope for adjustment at the Master Cylinder/Clutch Pedal mechanical joint?

Regards

Alan

There is indeed :thumb2 I had to do this on mine as the clutch pedal bite point was ridiculous, I'm sure I did pictures of this somewhere too :thumb2

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

There is indeed :thumb2 I had to do this on mine as the clutch pedal bite point was ridiculous, I'm sure I did pictures of this somewhere too :thumb2

This it mate?, from your mav thread....

 

[Banshee]

This it mate?, from your mav thread....
View attachment 7975

That's one point you can adjust but that's just for pedal travel really, there is also more adjustment on the back of the master cylinder, it has to be pulled forwards from the bulkhead before you can access it :thumbs2

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