Loss of Drive - All Gears - Terrano 2

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Thanks Guys, it's much appreciated...

Day 9... I only spent a couple of hours on truck today, as I had to work and I was a bit knackered.

That said, I was able to torque up all the bell housing, except for the one behind the engine which I could only get my modified spanner on. I hope not torque(ing) one bolt up won't be an issue?

Also got the starter bolts back in. Wow, they are really difficult to reach! Finally I reconnected the CPS sensor.

Clutch slave cylinder tomorrow and start cleaning up and removing the rust from the torsion bar/front suspension parts.

Regards

Alan
 
You get a big pat on the back from me for taking on such a project :thumb2
I've done two now and know how much work is involved doing it on your own with limited facilities :thumb2:thumb2
 
Had a hard day at work on Monday, and the heat was unbearable, but yesterday evening (Day 10) I spent a couple of hours on the truck and managed to get the clutch slave cylinder on, reconnected all the gearbox wiring, cleaned off all of the rust from the torsion bar splines and fitted the front torsion bar brackets.

Finishing early today, so will hopefully get the torsion bars back on and set up as per the workshop manual and battery back on.

Video of clutch slave working, if anyone is interested (below).

http://vid1074.photobucket.com/albums/w418/nalaeloc/IMG_4389_zps1ektq9i9.mp4

Regards

Alan
 
Had a hard day at work on Monday, and the heat was unbearable, but yesterday evening (Day 10) I spent a couple of hours on the truck and managed to get the clutch slave cylinder on, reconnected all the gearbox wiring, cleaned off all of the rust from the torsion bar splines and fitted the front torsion bar brackets.

Finishing early today, so will hopefully get the torsion bars back on and set up as per the workshop manual and battery back on.

Video of clutch slave working, if anyone is interested (below).

http://vid1074.photobucket.com/albums/w418/nalaeloc/IMG_4389_zps1ektq9i9.mp4

Regards

Alan

These can also squeak really bad sometimes, my Maverick one was terrible until I replaced it :thumb2
 
I haven't really had much time or felt up to looking at the forum properly for a few days. You have made progress :clap:clap:clap

Must be giving you a real sense of achievement :thumbs
 
I haven't really had much time or felt up to looking at the forum properly for a few days. You have made progress :clap:clap:clap

Must be giving you a real sense of achievement :thumbs

Thanks, Jim, I am pleased with the way that it's going, although it is taking me a very long time, and I would have to admit to being a bit fatigued with it at this stage. I am also beginning to worry that it won't start/run/work properly now.

Yesterday (Day 11) I spent from 2pm to 8:15pm working on it and made some progress. I refitted, and set up, the front torsion bars, as per the Nissan Workshop Manual, although I'm not convinced it will be correct? I also got the exhaust bracket fitted and the front and rear prop shafts on.

Then, would you believe, the most difficult job of the day was fitting the gear levers back on? After the infuriating task of putting the circlip on second gear stick was completed, I looked at the passenger footwell to see the long spring sat there. This spring is required to force you to push the lever past the guide bar to select neutral and 4L. So I took it off (again), fitted the spring and reassembled it all again as well as fitting the zip ties around the gaiters and the now fitted large gear lever. After fitting the guide bar it would not shift into neutral or 4L. To cut a long story short, I removed the short gear lever three times before realising that I had fitted the top zip tie on the gaiter too low on the stick. Live and learn I suppose!

Anyway, apart from the wheels, there are no bits left in the garage now so I can fit the battery and centre console over the next day or two, then see if I have done it right (fingers crossed).

Finally, I have this plan to get all four wheels off the ground before testing everything. Do you think this would be a good precautionary measure?

Image of guide bar, wrongly fitted rubber gaiter and lever below...



Regards

Alan
 
Hi All,

Despite the rain yesterday evening I was able to refit the centre console and put the wheels back on. Last job on Day 12 was to put the battery on charge overnight.

This evening, with some trepidation, I put the battery back on the vehicle, took it off the axle stands and cranked it over... To my amazement it started first time. Next dip the clutch and try to select a gear? In it went without any grinding, crunching or graunching. Clutch lifted and forward motion achieved! Then I took it out for a steady, but nerve wrecking 15 mile test drive without any issues other than the front end seems to be a bit low. Very pleased with this result otherwise.

Because I haven't driven it for three weeks, I wonder if someone, with a standard set-up, would be kind enough to compare the dimensions in the two photographs below with their vehicle? I completely dismantled the front suspension and think that I erred on the side of caution when setting it back up.





Finally thanks to all have contributed to this thread and offered help, advice and encouragement during the whole project. It really has been appreciated.

Regards

Alan
 
Very well done to completion, My Mrs motor is 800 rear 810 front, my motor is 860 rear 800 front but (1) I am running 31s and (2) I know mine is low on the front and needs raising a bit, must do it before Sept for the Wales meet, Rick
 
Well done mate :thumb2
Sorry can't help with the ride height as mine is lifted.
 
Thats a proper job mate well done :clap:thumb2:D

I don't know what standard ride height should be but I'm sure there is a measurement that is taken from the roof to the floor, it's either in the handbook or somewhere in the downloads section. Mine sits lower on the o/s too, I don't think it's a mistake you made or a faulty part just fatigue in the suspension from what I can gather :thumb2
 
Absolutely brilliant, now take have a nice long break. Sorry I've no idea if either of mine are correct height.

:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap
 
Well done. Glad it drives without problems, just have another look round after the next journey to be sure everything is still tight and right:thumb2
As for ride height I eyed it up then measured from the rear arch trim to the ground through the wheel centre both sides them done the same at the front and it ended up being 30mm less? Looked ok so left it. 3 or 4 journeys later I checked the measurements again after it had settled and the off side is 5mm less?
 
Re-indexing front torsion bars (Terrano)
Look this up in Quick links, workshops
Tells you how to do it
 
Fantastic a lot of hard work, but the satisfaction of you doing it is a great feeling & should keep a big grin on your face for a long time, huge pat on the back :thumbs not something I would attempt without more equipment & facilities :clap:clap:clap
 
Thanks to all for the replies. I think I will try to get it to around 800mm as per Ricks advice, but I may need to remove/reindex the torsion bars to do so.

I am struggling to understand how these bars work, as in the workshop manual it specifies jacking the lower control arm up to the bump stop and then tightening up the adjuster at the rear. I assume that this means you are pre-loading the torsion bar, as when I did it before it started to lift the truck off the axle stands?

So if I want to lift the front slightly, do I rotate the torque arms at the rear of the torsion bars up towards the underside of the car, or down toward the ground below? I also imagine that a couple of splines either way will make a big difference.

I will also check all the nuts and bolts again for tightness as suggested.

Regards

Alan
 
If you want to raise the front, you loosen the lock nuts and wind the bolts upwards. This will twist the torsion bar forcing the wheels into the ground, resulting in the front raising :thumb2
I had the front on axle stands under the chassis so the wheels were at full droop. I'd both torsion adjusters off to clean then up so refitted them by eye, wound them up and then lowered the truck to the ground. I had to back them off a little until I was happy with the look/measurements
 
If you want to raise the front, you loosen the lock nuts and wind the bolts upwards. This will twist the torsion bar forcing the wheels into the ground, resulting in the front raising :thumb2
I had the front on axle stands under the chassis so the wheels were at full droop. I'd both torsion adjusters off to clean then up so refitted them by eye, wound them up and then lowered the truck to the ground. I had to back them off a little until I was happy with the look/measurements

I think I've got some droop, I'll have to get the tape measure out :(
 
If you want to raise the front, you loosen the lock nuts and wind the bolts upwards. This will twist the torsion bar forcing the wheels into the ground, resulting in the front raising :thumb2
I had the front on axle stands under the chassis so the wheels were at full droop. I'd both torsion adjusters off to clean then up so refitted them by eye, wound them up and then lowered the truck to the ground. I had to back them off a little until I was happy with the look/measurements

Thanks Ian,

I have just followed your instructions and have 800mm (O/S) & 810mm (N/S).

Although they are quite modest differences to what it was, the truck looks much better. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow to test it.

Regards

Alan
 
Thanks Ian,

I have just followed your instructions and have 800mm (O/S) & 810mm (N/S).

Although they are quite modest differences to what it was, the truck looks much better. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow to test it.

Regards

Alan

Generally the front should be slightly lower than the rear so it doesn't sit nose high when loaded. :thumb2
 

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