Loss of Drive - All Gears - Terrano 2

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You're doing a great job and this thread will be used by many people I guess :thumb2
 
Ha well no wonder no drive :lol Good to know you've got the problem solved :thumbs

Yes, I was pleased to find the problem was easily diagnosed. New clutch purchased and now bolted onto flywheel.

I bought a Sachs job from EuroCarParts... £175.00.

I also bought a Sealey alignment kit for £25.00.



It was all going well up to this point...

Regards

Alan
 
A day of highs and lows...

I hope my shared experiences of doing this job are helpful, which is why today (Day 7) I spent a few hours this morning unbolt in the clutch, then a bit of running round to pick up parts followed by bolting them on... Finally starting to rebuild... Great... You might think!!!

After a bit of tea this evening, I thought I would go out and start the process of lifting the gearbox back up and getting the bolts back in. What a nightmare that was, and I didn't even achieve my goal.

I got it all lifted up, and some where in the area of pushing it all together, in fact I got the bell housing within 20mm of the engine. From there though it would not budge for love nor money. I then made the unwise decision to get brutal with it and give the stretcher on the jack a kick to persuade it. This had the potentially disastrous effect of sliding the cradle toward the engine and putting everything out of balance. I then decided to put my other jack into play, which has no cradle. It's a long story of pushing and pulling, but a crushed wrist was narrowly avoided!!!

I then decided that that was enough for the day, my composure started to fail, and I decided, along with a plea from my OH (who was helping as best she could) to pack up for the evening.

I then went into 'rescue' mode. This included getting the gearbox back under control on a big timber beam and getting the jack cradle set up properly again. It all seems balanced better now, but I am worried I am doing something wrong in respect of lining up the shaft into the flywheel, or is just difficult sometimes?

Some pics below...

So close, yet so far away...



Safe mode...



Another try tomorrow, resting now:)

Regards

Alan
 
Hi Rick. The new fiction plates are c8.5mm thick.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Alan

It is the thickness of the old plate I was more interested in, the reason being you have had similar fails before and Rustic says he thinks it is a common problem on T2's, I think it is a gearbox refitting problem that is causing these failures, you old plate does not look very worn to me indicating it has not been in that long.

So to the point, when mating the box to the engine, once the first motion shaft enters the clutch center plate splines, if the back of the box drops even as little as an inch, it will deform the center plate, and lead to the sort of failure you have experienced, I think that due to the weight and difficulty of handling this box that, that is the root problem, so please make sure the box/shaft stays level at all times, and the same applies to side ways deflection, if something slips and you suspect the center plate has been damaged, stop take it all out again and put the plate on the shaft and spin it, if it wobbles even the slightest it is scrap, Rick
 
You posted while I was writing, have looked at your pic and it is bad, at that point the shaft is just about located, and the back of the box is low, gap at bottom is smaller than gap at top, I would be taking it out as my previous post, Rick
 
Did you put it in 4th gear so you could turn the output shaft to line up the splines, if not you may be saves as it might not have entered, this would be why you could not push it any further, if you want to chat over the phone pm me your number, Rick
 
Thanks for your late posts yesterday Rick, apologies for not replying, but I was done in after getting cleaned up and sitting down.

I hope that I haven't deformed the drive plate, but as you state in your last post I don't seem to be able to get the shaft to 'snick' in. I am positive your comments regarding getting the mating surfaces lined up are 100% correct, but (and as you warned) this is no easy task given the bulk and complicated shape of the gearbox.

If I put it in 4th gear, will that turn the shaft at the other end, and can I do this by putting it into low and turning the transfer box propeller shaft coupling?

Thanks for the very kind offer of a chat on the phone. I will PM you my number, but I will call you to ensure the call cost is mine.

I will be back at it around 10am today, but I feel like I've gone a round or two with Mike Tyson this morning:).

Regards

Alan
 
Alan take a day off mate and you'll be fresh to start again. You are doing so well and you will get there even if it takes another seven days or more. Take a break and sit back and think about what you have achieved :clap
 
I found it helped to support the box from above aswell.
I lay a length of 3x2 supported on a couple of blocks in front of the seats with a ratchet and strap around it.i wrapped it round the box,up through the hole in the floor and around the 3x2.
Gives the extra bit of support and reduces the risk of the box completely slipping off the jack.
 
Alan take a day off mate and you'll be fresh to start again. You are doing so well and you will get there even if it takes another seven days or more. Take a break and sit back and think about what you have achieved :clap

That is sound advice, which on this occasion I didn't heed, no offence intended of course. I do appreciate the encouraging words though. They really have kept my pushing on.

Regards

Alan
 
I found it helped to support the box from above aswell.
I lay a length of 3x2 supported on a couple of blocks in front of the seats with a ratchet and strap around it.i wrapped it round the box,up through the hole in the floor and around the 3x2.
Gives the extra bit of support and reduces the risk of the box completely slipping off the jack.

I kept thinking that would be a good idea, but I was worried that the floor pan wouldn't be strong enough. It would certainly help to get the gearbox under control and at the correct height.

Maybe next time... Let's hope that never happens! :)

Regards

Alan
 
Floor pan is plenty strong enough if you spread the weight out.
It's not actually taking the full weight of the box.
I had the ratchet underneath so I could adjust it while I was lining the input shaft up.
It's the in and twist motion that is a pig to do using the transmission jack.
 
Thanks. I hope the mistakes I am making are equally helpful to others.

Regards

Alan

Your doing a five star job mate, not too many people would even attempt what you are doing, not sure I would but you have inspired me and demostrated what is possible :thumb2:thumb2
 
Today (Day 8) things have gone a lot better, I was able to have a good chat with Rick on the phone (thanks again Rick it was really helpful) and I followed his advice and I pulled the gear box back again, removed the clutch and followed his instruction to check for any damage caused by my 'botched' attempt yesterday. Luckily, I could not detect any deformity in the pressure plate. I tested this by putting it on the first motion shaft and getting my faithful helper to spin the propshaft. I held a steel rule against it and all looked well. I actually now think (as stated by Rick) that I was a 'country mile' away from getting everything lined up yesterday and didn't get any closer to the pressure plate, other than hitting it with the shaft.

I then refitted the clutch assembly taking a good forty minutes to ensure I did the best job I could. I am afraid the new Sealey kit was abandoned (all to loose) and I used a cheap Clarke one that was a much better fit. Then onto mating the gearbox and engine together....

This time I took things much slower and kept crawling from under the car, as per Rick's instructions, to ensure that the ever closing gap between the two was kept as even all around as possible. I did this by lifting/tilting the gearbox a little then inching it forward a little. Very time consuming, but lots more control. As stated in the thread above, the twist to clear the bulkhead is the difficult/heavy operation where things tend to get a bit crossed up!

Finally the gap was down to between 5 & 10mm. One more big push I thought, but it would not move at all and continued to bounce back off the engine. After 10 minutes of doing the same thing, and getting the same outcome, I got the torch and had a look at the small gap again. This closer inspection revealed that a metal dowel was not lined up accurately (I did not notice this on disassembly). I then made some fine (term is relative) adjustments and also used a big screwdriver though one of the bolt holes to get it lined up. Thankfully, I was then able to close the gap even more, but not close it completely! I then made a decision to put a bolt in on either side of the bellhousing. Luckily, and much to my relief, this had the effect of gently pulling the two parts together and eliminating any gap. The other bolts were then added and the two parts fixed tightly together!

My final job for the day (after six solid hours) was to refit the gearbox cross member. My arms were in agony at this point though :)

I have to work tomorrow, but hopefully I will get a chance later in the day to clean up the torsion bars, in preparation for refitting on Monday.

Regards

Alan
 
Sounds like it's all coming together now:thumb2
Keep up the good work!!!
 
Well done Alan, the worst is over now, glad you took your time, worth it in the long run, Rick
 

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