Loss of Drive - All Gears - Terrano 2

[jims-terrano]

You seem to have it sussed pal, patience and a bit of old carpet always helps :thumbs

There might have been a thick rubber gaiter under the nice leather (ish) one round the gear stick, I think its that which jim wants a pic of.
This is going to be a good thread Alan :thumb2:thumb2

You forgot Tea, must have tea whilst doing a job like this:thumbs

And yes the thick rubber boot I guess is another description

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

You forgot Tea, must have tea whilst doing a job like this:thumbs

And yes the thick rubber boot I guess is another description

Definitely tea, and some eye protection, so much stuff falls on me when I work under mine, rust and mud and sometimes next doors cat

 

[TONUP]

For the sake of 4 bolts I think you should remove the prop from the diff, stick it in gear and turn it, if you have noises in the rear then something has broke in the transfer box and that is a much easier job, if however all is quiet box wise but noise in bell housing area then clutch, 4th gear will be best to start with as it is straight through, if you have noises try all the gears including low box, (but for this one you will also need to disconnect the front prop unless you have manual hubs), just wanting to be sure it is the clutch before any work starts, Rick

Thanks for the feedback and words of encouragement. As soon as the hour is decent enough, I am going to get back at it, but I will put the gear levers back in and try the test above recommended by Rick. That said I guess changing the clutch around 100k miles is not a bad plan anyway.

Regards

Alan

 

[TONUP]

You seem to have it sussed pal, patience and a bit of old carpet always helps :thumbs

There might have been a thick rubber gaiter under the nice leather (ish) one round the gear stick, I think its that which jim wants a pic of.
This is going to be a good thread Alan :thumb2:thumb2

No problem.

That bit is on the back seat with all the 'internal' bits I took off.

Regards

Alan

 

[TONUP]

...Day 2...

Tougher going today, but I have done the test recommended by Rick, and it seems to point to a clutch problem, which is what I am going to keep heading toward.

Today I was able to remove the clutch slave cylinder, which caught me out nearly as it keeps involuntarily gently pushing the piston out. In the end I had to put some cable ties around it to prevent this. I also took the breather pipe off, and a bit of smelly oil came out of it, only a thimble full though.

Then on to to the drivers side torsion bar. I read the download, and followed it to the letter. In the first instance getting the circlip off was really difficult. Got there in the end using some needle-nose pliers and a flat bladed screwdriver. Next was to pull the bar out of the front end. It would not budge though, tapping the adjuster end with a drift only caused the adjuster arm to start to slide off exposing the splines. I then tried a few different methods to no avail, which included the dreaded mole grips destroyer of all things engineered!!!

I then made the decision to remove the plate attached by three bolts to the front wishbone. The two 14mm nuts were tough to shift, but came off quite easily. The 19mm nut was a different matter. This was as tight as... All of them required a spanner on the back, but the 19mm bolt is concealed to some degree within the wishbone (I hope that is the right name). In the end I was able to get a thin open ended spanner in the aperture in the wishbone and was able to remove the nut with a breaker bar. The arrow in the image below hopefully illustrates its location...



I was then able to pull the torsion bar and plate away, leaving what you can see below...



Unfortunately the adjusting arm at the rear fell off, which is a shame as I went to the trouble of placing a reference mark at the front end, as per the workshop download...





I don't really know what I was doing wrong, but I will knock the plate off the bar in due course and put a bit of grease on it.

Tomorrow I hope to remove the other side and remove the exhaust bracket from the gearbox, which will leave me clear to start on the bell housing bolts and cross members.

Total time today 3.5 hours.

Comments and criticism welcome

Regards

Alan

 

[TONUP]

No problem.

That bit is on the back seat with all the 'internal' bits I took off.

Regards

Alan

This is the image of the gater that Jim wanted to see...



Regards

Alan

 

[jims-terrano]

Cheers Alan, that's the baby. When I've done the major welding job on the wifes I'll look into replacing that.

Great job, nice and steady and you'll do it. Might be worth thinking about replacing the slave cylinder and it's flexi hose whilst you've got it off. A lot of people me included have blanked off the damper pipe on the flexi hose but personally if I could go back in time I would replace the damper rather than do without but that is personal choice.

Well done though and keep it up. :clap:clap:clap

 

[TONUP]

Day 3...

Spent a couple of hours after work today, and managed to get the passenger side torsion bar off. I had to use the same method as yesterday, as it was siezed onto the bracket on the front wishbone solid.

Following that I unbolted the rear crossmember, which was jammed in super tight. With necessity being the mother of invention, and not being able to lever it out conventionally, I put the trolley jack into action (see below) and got underneath and beat it with a lump hammer and pried it away with a big tyre lever... I won in the end! Might be a bit dangerous though as there could be some big forces in play...



Getting there now, with only the exhaust bracket and bell housing bolts to go...



Tomorrow I am going to look at modifying the transmission adapter which fits a trolley jack. I bought it off eBay.

Regards

Alan

 

[solarman216]

Well done, yes they can be tight, with a small trolley jack like that I would be trying to keep the box up at the correct level and just draw it back, once down away from the confines of the chassis it will become uncontrollable, it is not only heavy but very unbalanced, Rick

 

[TONUP]

Well done, yes they can be tight, with a small trolley jack like that I would be trying to keep the box up at the correct level and just draw it back, once down away from the confines of the chassis it will become uncontrollable, it is not only heavy but very unbalanced, Rick

Thanks for warning and advice Rick. I will try to enlist some help on that part if it is only to operate the up and down movement of the jack (I'm sure she will help!). I will also lash the gearbox to the jack with a couple of ratchet straps, which may help keep it all under some control.

When it comes to centering the clutch, what do you use? I probably will have to buy a tool for this?

Regards

Alan

 

[macabethiel]

Impressive post admire your determination !

Wow you certainly seem to be doing good there.

In my younger days when I did all my own mechanicals I used to use a trolley jack like you but also made a small dolly trolley out of a pair of old roller skates and some 4"x3" timber!

I used it for moving 3 x 2 slabs as well ! In the end it broke through abuse when I used it to wheel some 2-3 cwt lumps of sandstone in my garden. The ferrous bug ate the skate bearings. RIP after 35 years of use and abuse.

I too would be going to sleep or not - thinking of the logistics you have ahead of you.

 

[solarman216]

When it comes to centering the clutch, what do you use? I probably will have to buy a tool for this?

Regards

Alan

With engine out I always done it by eye, but you will not be ale to do so, so yes tool for the job, Rick

 

[TONUP]

Wow you certainly seem to be doing good there.

In my younger days when I did all my own mechanicals I used to use a trolley jack like you but also made a small dolly trolley out of a pair of old roller skates and some 4"x3" timber!

I used it for moving 3 x 2 slabs as well ! In the end it broke through abuse when I used it to wheel some 2-3 cwt lumps of sandstone in my garden. The ferrous bug ate the skate bearings. RIP after 35 years of use and abuse.

I too would be going to sleep or not - thinking of the logistics you have ahead of you.

Thanks for the words of encouragement, and for the idea of making something up to stabilise the jack. I am going to look into that.

As I get older this type of endeavour gets more challenging... I passed the half-century mark this year

I am knocking off work early today, so I hope the weather will hold long enough for me to get a bit further with the job.

Regards

Alan

 

[Banshee]

Thanks for the words of encouragement, and for the idea of making something up to stabilise the jack. I am going to look into that.

As I get older this type of endeavour gets more challenging... I passed the half-century mark this year

I am knocking off work early today, so I hope the weather will hold long enough for me to get a bit further with the job.

Regards

Alan

Keep going mate, what a cracking effort so far :thumb2

 

[macabethiel]

50 your are still a young adult !

Thanks for the words of encouragement, and for the idea of making something up to stabilise the jack. I am going to look into that.

As I get older this type of endeavour gets more challenging... I passed the half-century mark this year

I am knocking off work early today, so I hope the weather will hold long enough for me to get a bit further with the job.

Regards

Alan

Wish I was still 50 at 68 I find myself having to think about a job for a week before I start in earnest.
I sit looking at the new parts for a few days then look for complications like the brake disc retaing screws being seized.
Last big job I did was putting rear discs on the Jeep and the hardest part was making the alloy wheels come off the hub !
Ended up using my huge rubber mallet to great effect ! lol

Next time will be easier thanks to Copper Slip paste.

 

[micktheshed]

Wish I was still 50 at 68 I find myself having to think about a job for a week before I start in earnest.
I sit looking at the new parts for a few days then look for complications like the brake disc retaing screws being seized.
Last big job I did was putting rear discs on the Jeep and the hardest part was making the alloy wheels come off the hub !
Ended up using my huge rubber mallet to great effect ! lol

Next time will be easier thanks to Copper Slip paste.

Apart from being 2 years older than you, I could have written this myself LOL.
Every job is best avoided!

A tip given to me on the Mitsubishi forum for loosening stuck-on wheels: undo bolts 1/4 to 1/2 turn then drive over a curb or a plank of wood etc. that is about 1 to 2" (25 to 50mm) high. They will magically come loose!

 

[TONUP]

I hope that I will still be able to do this kind of work in 15 years, although the way I feel now after looking at the underside of it for three days, I am beginning to wonder

Day 4...

This afternoon progress wasn't so good, I got the exhaust bracket off, and then spent a couple of hours modifying the trolley jack. I took macbethiels advice and have tried to make it a bit more stable (see below).



I slid it under the car and I think it will work, although I will need to raise the front of the truck a couple more inches to give me a bit more manoeuvring room.

Now for a couple of questions if someone can help out...

- When I remove the gearbox crossmember, will I be able to tilt the gearbox sufficiently to reach the two top bell-housing bolts?

- How far, approximately, will I have to slide the gear box back to clear the shaft?

Regards

Alan

 

[Banshee]

I hope that I will still be able to do this kind of work in 15 years, although the way I feel now after looking at the underside of it for three days, I am beginning to wonder

Day 4...

This afternoon progress wasn't so good, I got the exhaust bracket off, and then spent a couple of hours modifying the trolley jack. I took macbethiels advice and have tried to make it a bit more stable (see below).



I slid it under the car and I think it will work, although I will need to raise the front of the truck a couple more inches to give me a bit more manoeuvring room.

Now for a couple of questions if someone can help out...

- When I remove the gearbox crossmember, will I be able to tilt the gearbox sufficiently to reach the two top bell-housing bolts?

- How far, approximately, will I have to slide the gear box back to clear the shaft?

Regards

Alan

That looks the job Alan where did you buy the cradle from?

 

[solarman216]

Top bell housing bolts? nope you cannot drop the rear of the box to get at em they have to be done from the top, may help if the rear of the box will go up a tad as you gain a little room tween bulkhead and head, but they are not too bad to do, re how far back, well about 4 inches should do it, once you have pulled it about 2 inches you can lower it a bit if it allows it to go back a bit further, worst part is changing the thrust bearing, do it before you put the mew clutch on and triple check you have it located correctly, and then check it again, torch mirrors you name it, as it is possible to get it wrong, even with engine out and good access, OH and I will be 69 next month,Rick

 

[solarman216]

Regarding the cradle and jack set up, this box is a very heavy unweildly beast, be careful with a cradle designed for a car box, and make sure that timber spreader is solidly fixed to the jack, if as I suspect you have cut it to fit over the jack sides, it just could break at that point, do not underestimate the weight of this box, I know I am getting older but I can just lift a transfer box on its own but not for long, hope all goes well, Rick