Locking wheel nuts

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Wreckless

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This what can happen if you do not invest in locking wheel nuts:eek: Some toe rag tried to nick my wheel off my drive. This happened after about 5 min driving (no warning noises/vibrations) just as I was about to launch myself up the MI in morning rush hour traffic :eek:
 

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Hi m8 hope you had no damage done

Got a set for my Patrol from Nissan @20.00+vat after some one took my wheel cover of the spare while on the drive way, heard them they did not get a second chance:mad:
Nissan don't fit locking Wheel Nuts to the patrol as standard, I was told buy the dealer as there alloys not nick able enough, :lol
Get the proper Nissan Ones as All there workshops Cary a master set should you damage the key/Nut while undoing or doing the wheel up (or if your tyre dealer looses it as with my one)

Tip. always Wright in permanent mark your reg number on you key/nut so the work shop knows its yours and keep the key number so you can order a replacement.:thumb2
 
Theiving scum want their hands chopping off - could have killed someone - but how loud do you have your stereo up not to hear a loose wheel? I've had it done to me and you can feel let alone hear the effect of a wheel floating around.
 
we had a front wheel fly off our old bedford CF van. meany moons ago. just after the M4 gets 3 lanes.. wheel shoot off into teh yonder, dad just mannade to stop on the hard shoulder, and earlyer and there wan no hard shoulder, later and hed have been doing cloe to 70..


was down to garage not checking the day before,, could have been nasty!

Zippy
 
Don't be so quick to assume it was thieves.

A few months ago I changed the 8 spoke steels with off road tires on back to the alloys that were on my Y60 Patrol.

We drove up to the Peak District for a night the 3 Stags Inn at Wardlow which is about 70 miles from here.

When we got there I noticed that the n/s/r drum was hot and assumed that the brake shoes were binding for some reason. The following day we drove home and later that afternoon I decided to remove the wheel to investigate.

I went to crack the wheel nuts before jacking the truck up and, to my horror I found that all the nuts were loose... they were not much tighter than finger tight.

My initial thought was that the binding drum had got so hot that through some weird heating and colling process the nuts had become loose.

I removed the wheel and drum and could not find anything untoward with the brakes so replaced the wheel again and torqued it to about 70 ft lbs.

I then out of curiosity went to the other rear wheel, low and behold ALL the nuts on that wheel were loose. So I torqued those up to 70 ft lbs

Before I put the tools away I checked the tightness of all the nuts again, believe it or nut ALL were loose again :eek: the truck had not moved an inch and it was literally 5 - 10 minutes after tightening them that they had come loose.

If someone had told me this I would not have believed them and thought that maybe they were loosing it slightly :confused:

The solution was to put back on the 5mm spacers, I didn't bother putting them on the first time as there were in another shed and I couldn't be arsed to walk up there :augie after doing so all has been fine and still is 4 months later.

So, as the doctor says "check your nuts regularly" :D

There is some interesting reading here too
 
Hi (again) davemud. Sadly there was damage - £800 !! :-((
 
Hi again daba. Yes could have been a whole lot worse. Call it luck of the Irish but the wheel came off at only 15-20mph rounding one of MK's many roundabout s - the last roundabout before joining M1 after 500yds or so
 
Hi Wreckless
sorry to her that m8 what's got damaged they give u a list.

Hi bat21 you should bee fitting different wheel bolts for Steel and alloy's its to do with the shoulder and flange found under the bolt head
Alloys wheel bolts should have a conical cone to centre and spread the load plus they tend to be longer than there steel counterparts as alloys have a thicker wall section
Steel wheel bolts have a flat flange and should be hardened steel 8.8 plus in strength they can have a different torque setting as well

hope that helps
 
Could have been 'Afro-Celt' at mega decibels, or being half asleep at 6am (hungover?), or just the slow speed/heavy traffic but was shocked that hadn't noticed anything beforehand
 
we had a front wheel fly off our old bedford CF van. meany moons ago. just after the M4 gets 3 lanes.. wheel shoot off into teh yonder, dad just mannade to stop on the hard shoulder, and earlyer and there wan no hard shoulder, later and hed have been doing cloe to 70..


was down to garage not checking the day before,, could have been nasty!

Zippy
Hi Zippy. Sounds like a brown-trouser-moment.
 
very, i was only 18 at the time. we got the spaire on, nut from each of the other wheels. limped home..

then we went back in my mini. teh next day... I know it sounds daft now, but we did have trouble getting the CF wheel/tyre into my mini!!
 
Hi Wreckless
sorry to her that m8 what's got damaged they give u a list.

Hi bat21 you should bee fitting different wheel bolts for Steel and alloy's its to do with the shoulder and flange found under the bolt head
Alloys wheel bolts should have a conical cone to centre and spread the load plus they tend to be longer than there steel counterparts as alloys have a thicker wall section
Steel wheel bolts have a flat flange and should be hardened steel 8.8 plus in strength they can have a different torque setting as well

hope that helps
It's history now - happened Nov 07. Recall hub, rim and some trim bits all damaged while escaping to kerb edge
 
Don't be so quick to assume it was thieves.

A few months ago I changed the 8 spoke steels with off road tires on back to the alloys that were on my Y60 Patrol.

We drove up to the Peak District for a night the 3 Stags Inn at Wardlow which is about 70 miles from here.

When we got there I noticed that the n/s/r drum was hot and assumed that the brake shoes were binding for some reason. The following day we drove home and later that afternoon I decided to remove the wheel to investigate.

I went to crack the wheel nuts before jacking the truck up and, to my horror I found that all the nuts were loose... they were not much tighter than finger tight.

My initial thought was that the binding drum had got so hot that through some weird heating and colling process the nuts had become loose.

I removed the wheel and drum and could not find anything untoward with the brakes so replaced the wheel again and torqued it to about 70 ft lbs.

I then out of curiosity went to the other rear wheel, low and behold ALL the nuts on that wheel were loose. So I torqued those up to 70 ft lbs

Before I put the tools away I checked the tightness of all the nuts again, believe it or nut ALL were loose again :eek: the truck had not moved an inch and it was literally 5 - 10 minutes after tightening them that they had come loose.

If someone had told me this I would not have believed them and thought that maybe they were loosing it slightly :confused:

The solution was to put back on the 5mm spacers, I didn't bother putting them on the first time as there were in another shed and I couldn't be arsed to walk up there :augie after doing so all has been fine and still is 4 months later.

So, as the doctor says "check your nuts regularly" :D

There is some interesting reading here too
Scary stuff in that article. The complete set of my (wheel) nuts were lying within a few feet of each other on the roundabout. I initially blamed the tyre fitters who had replaced tyres 5-6 weeks earlier but have been assured by others that would have known about a problem in a few miles let alone 5-6 weeks. This Nissan wheel 'fault' referred to could be an explanation
 
Hi bat21 you should bee fitting different wheel bolts for Steel and alloy's its to do with the shoulder and flange found under the bolt head
Alloys wheel bolts should have a conical cone to centre and spread the load plus they tend to be longer than there steel counterparts as alloys have a thicker wall section
Steel wheel bolts have a flat flange and should be hardened steel 8.8 plus in strength they can have a different torque setting as well

hope that helps
Dave,

I forgot to say that I have two sets of nuts, the conical cone center set for the alloys and the flat flange 8.8s for the steels :thumb2
 
i had a shogun a few years ago and some thieving scumbag tried to have the alloys away, i think they must have been disturbed, i was on my way to see a mate the next day when this vibration started and straight away i knew something was wrong, managed to pull into a layby checked all round vehicle only to find nsr wheel hanging off, one nut still on so used a couple from other wheels and crawled to his home, and then spent 2 hours looking along 2 miles of road for nuts, found them though, we felt like right couple of pratts kerb crawling.:mad:




tezzer
 
lockling wheel nuts

I had a 1964 6.7 ltr ford galaxy county sedan in the mid seventys.
had trouble with wheel nuts coming loose on the rear axle .
damaged rims where nuts fit had to send sheila to DB Motors at leicester
in a taxi to collect two more wheel rims 70 mile round trip.
advised to replace nuts and studs as the threads had streched.
replaced them and no more problems.
first time one came loose i didnt feel it perhaps due to long travel soft suspenshion .
Great motor i used to run it on 50% parafin in summer £10 would fill it up all 25 gallons.
 
With a lot of these fast fit centers and their bloody air impact guns are to blame for the damage done to studs and alloys
i think they have been clamping down on them or perhaps a change in the law but i've noticed that they are spinning on the nuts and then torquing them up with a torque wrench
Where before they would just buzz them on and that was that untill you tried to take the wheel off usually on the hard shoulder at night ,jumping on the wheel brace until it bent because the nuts were so tight

Jamie
 
It,s a worry,There is no way my wife would be able to change a puncture on the mav on her own
 

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