lfteixeira Ford Maverick 2.7 - LWB

[lfteixeira]

This week the Red Mav increased 5cm (2").
New rear springs (from jimnybits) and a few turns on the torsion bars.

Now i'm searching for a new set of shocks for the rear.

What is the best option to get the most travel distance between closed and fully opened?
Does anybody know the default sizes?

 

[lfteixeira]

Well, to help others here are some measures.

News springs on the back and a few turns on the torsion bars.

where - before - after
front - 86cm - 89cm
rear - 87cm - 94cm

I can't lift more in the front, and the rear will drop a bit with some weight in the trunk and a few months on the springs.


About the shocks.

With the standard ones:
Fully compressed: 36cm (disconected from the car)
Compressed: 46cm (connected to the car)
Rest position: 54cm
Fully opened: 60cm

So, i have a travel distance of 14cm.

From what i saw i can increase up to 68cm without messing with hoses and others, gaining 8cm of travel distance.

The new shocks should have 40cm fully compressed and 68cm fully open.

Sorry for using metric measures! :augie

 

[lfteixeira]

Well.

Keeping my "Captain Log" up to date.

Maverick with 331411 Km (+/- 206000 miles).
This weekend i did the biggest travel ever (for me) on a 4x4, 1661Km (1032 miles).
2,5 tanks of fuel!!! Average of 11L/100 (25.6 mpg).

(On road tyres from a Pajero, 245/70 R16)

Solved a air leak (broken pipe from the compressor to the wastegate) and found that my turbo is going away... white smoke from time to time...

That's it for now!

 

[Banshee]

Well.

Keeping my "Captain Log" up to date.

Maverick with 331411 Km (+/- 206000 miles).
This weekend i did the biggest travel ever (for me) on a 4x4, 1661Km (1032 miles).
2,5 tanks of fuel!!! Average of 11L/100 (25.6 mpg).

(On road tyres from a Pajero, 245/70 R16)

Solved a air leak (broken pipe from the compressor to the wastegate) and found that my turbo is going away... white smoke from time to time...

That's it for now!

Nice to hear from you with the update :thumb2

Be careful that your turbo doesn't overrun like mine did, it's horrible!!!! I was lucky to save the engine on mine by stalling it.

 

[lfteixeira]

Updating the topic.

Reinforced idler arms in both sides and steering bar.
Gone with the standard bushings and replaced with bronze with lubrification.

I don't know the name for this, but its where the lower suspension arm bar atached. The hole was starting to get oval instead of round.

After the lift springs, some bigger profender shocks.

Looks nice!!! :clap

 

[lfteixeira]

This weekend went with my kids to the first snow this winter here in Portugal.

Nice landscape:

A little bit of towing:

Some rest:

And a deserved refuelling:

It was a nice day!!

 

[lfteixeira]

Finally, some questions:

1st: I don't have water in the front windshield. I don't hear the motor working. Where to start searching?

2nd: My turbo is starting to go. White smoke. What is the turbo that i have?
The part number is 144117F400, maybe a Garret TB25, but what version?
And the main question, what is the best replacement? Same? Bigger? Any sugestions?

Thanks.

 

[solarman216]

Washer bottle is under the OSF wing, pump can be changed without taking the wing off but difficult to say the least, what makes you think your turbo is going? to test it you need a pressure gauge teed into the waste gate pipe, Rick

 

[jims-terrano]

Sorry can’t help you with Turbo but assuming your washer pump is like mine, it’s the same pump for the rear washer too. It’s a uk seller but at least you’ll know which pump. As Rick says you can change it without removing wing but it’s easier to remove front section of plastic wing protector.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-T...=1529458693882d8c97ed093d46329bdf6e2f82f6c367

 

[jims-terrano]

Forgot to say your lunch looks gorgeous :thumbs

 

[lfteixeira]

Washer bottle is under the OSF wing, pump can be changed without taking the wing off but difficult to say the least, what makes you think your turbo is going? to test it you need a pressure gauge teed into the waste gate pipe, Rick

Thanks for the input.
I already removed the plastic below the front wing but only reached what seams to be a level sensor. No hoses attached.

The turbo is making white smoke under acceleration, but more when i lift the throttle.

 

[lfteixeira]

Sorry can’t help you with Turbo but assuming your washer pump is like mine, it’s the same pump for the rear washer too. It’s a uk seller but at least you’ll know which pump. As Rick says you can change it without removing wing but it’s easier to remove front section of plastic wing protector.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-T...=1529458693882d8c97ed093d46329bdf6e2f82f6c367

Thanks for the tip about the motor.
No problem beeing in UK, until the brexit, no problems! :thumb2

And yes, the lunch was very good.

 

[Banshee]

White smoke on these beasts is nearly always fuel starvation from my experience.

I'd be checking, Fuel Filer, Fuel Inlet Banjo Bolt Gauze Filter, Fuel Lines, Swirl Chamber and Pickup Pipes in that order :thumb2

 

[lfteixeira]

White smoke on these beasts is nearly always fuel starvation from my experience.

I'd be checking, Fuel Filer, Fuel Inlet Banjo Bolt Gauze Filter, Fuel Lines, Swirl Chamber and Pickup Pipes in that order :thumb2

Ok, Fuel Filter was replaced and there is no Fuel Inlet Banjo (small filter on the fuel pump).

I will also check the Fuel Injectors.

 

[lfteixeira]

Hello.

Hope everyone is ok and not affected by Covid19.
Here, for now, it's all good.

In the last 3 months the Maverick only went offroading 1 time with his friends!

We are build a little shuttle company with all the LWB Mavericks... 3 for now.

 

[lfteixeira]

But in the last 3 months i was able to finally replace my washer fluid pump.

Nice job to replace a £10 part...

 

[lfteixeira]

Now for the hard part, in wish i need some help.


The engine continues to "sputter" in this sequence:
1. Neutral
2. Full throttle
3. Release throttle
4. Back on the throttle (here he sputter, white smoke and them he goes)

I left the car in a shop that deal with diesel engines (well, now i'm not so sure about their knowledge).

At this moment he checked the engine compression, all cylinders are good, around 23 bar each.
Then he check the injectors, all of them were working around 100 bar.
He said it's low and tune them to work at 125bar (is this right???).

The problem is the lead injector (the one with a wire), he say'd that he doesn't know if he can tune that injector, he doesn't know if can affect the "reads" that the injector sends to the pump.


How can we test to see if the electronic part of the injector is working?


Any info about this subject would be appreciated! :thumb2

Thanks.


Some pictures:

 

[solarman216]

Around 120 bar is OK it is not the cracking pressure that is most important it is the spray pattern, I do not know of a way to test the No 1 injector but if you have no fault code relating to it then it must be working OK and it can be adjusted same as the others, have you checked the MAF it is the first place I would go, Rick

 

[lfteixeira]

Around 120 bar is OK it is not the cracking pressure that is most important it is the spray pattern, I do not know of a way to test the No 1 injector but if you have no fault code relating to it then it must be working OK and it can be adjusted same as the others, have you checked the MAF it is the first place I would go, Rick

Thanks for the input.
How can i check the MAF? Any test?

I already cleaned it several months ago, but felt no difference.

If the ECU as any errors should it blink some light? Nothing on in the dashboard.

Thanks.

 

[solarman216]

Disconnect it and go for a drive, what do you get, Rick