Just won't idle and loves to stall!

[Ó hÉidin]

Hi all.

My 1997 2.7 maverick swb is really beginning to frustrate me.

It's idling really badly, between 500 and 700 rpm, sounds very rough and lumpy, then when you set off, unless it gets plenty of right foot it will just stall out, more like custs out, it can do it randomly, traffic lights typically are the best spot as it is a poor charger at the moment so I have to pray it will restart!

If I blip the throttle when not moving, one in 3 times it will also cause it to cut out.

Also when driving it feels like there is constant ending braking, when I take my foot of the throttle, it doesn't coast it decelerates quicker than usual.

I read through the useful info on here and was hoping it would be the maf, cleaned it and no improvement, bought a new one and still no improvement. So I've ruled that out. So now have a spare maf for the inevitable.

When it does cut out the engine light will stay on but the engine performance does not change. Sometimes if I key off for over 5 seconds and key back on the light goes out, some times not!

A friend of mine took a look at it and he seems to think that the fuel pump is running slightly retarded. Is this possible?

All info appreciated.

 

[clivvy]

very possible, but you need to read the codes as per the download section. There will be a giveaway code stored in there to set you on the right track.

Will be worth cleaning/checking your CKP sensor, fuel filter and checking to see if you have a mini filter in the pump, but CKP and fuel filter are easiest to start with.

as the throttle is electric, check your grounding and cables also, could be a bad earth..

 

[Ó hÉidin]

very possible, but you need to read the codes as per the download section. There will be a giveaway code stored in there to set you on the right track.

Will be worth cleaning/checking your CKP sensor, fuel filter and checking to see if you have a mini filter in the pump, but CKP and fuel filter are easiest to start with.

as the throttle is electric, check your grounding and cables also, could be a bad earth..

Cheers for that, i looked for a filter in the banjo bolt 6 months ago and there was not one fitted, it had a fuel filter 2 months ago.

 

[clivvy]

in that case, id be looking at electrical fault first, then start checking the fuel lines for leaks/holes etc

 

[Ó hÉidin]

in that case, id be looking at electrical fault first, then start checking the fuel lines for leaks/holes etc

Thanks, will try and read the codes if any and i plan the change the battery leads soon.

 

[Kamsin]

I been having a problem like this on mine for over a year, it judders like hell between 900 and 1,200 revs. Iv done everything too it.

If you find your answer id be intrested to hear as it may give me a clue. :lol

 

[edgerton19]

Could be air leaking into the fuel fuel system check fuel filter seating and fuel pipes near tank/rear wheel arch. It could also be a duff fuel filter.
As said above engine fault codes should give you a clue if its an electrical component.
Good luck!!

 

[makeitfit]

Does the MIL come on at all?
How long have you had the car?
Could be someone before dissarmed the MIL as what you descibe sounds more electrickery based.
Fuel lines do rot but tend to show themselves at higher revs and no mil.
Pump shouldn't be retarded unless someone has fitted a new one badly.
Codes please :thumbs

 

[Ó hÉidin]

in that case, id be looking at electrical fault first, then start checking the fuel lines for leaks/holes etc

Does the MIL come on at all?
How long have you had the car?
Could be someone before dissarmed the MIL as what you descibe sounds more electrickery based.
Fuel lines do rot but tend to show themselves at higher revs and no mil.
Pump shouldn't be retarded unless someone has fitted a new one badly.
Codes please :thumbs

Sorry, what do you mean by MIL? I guess I've had it 2 years and only. Done about 2500 miles, it's just for booting around the farm (in Ireland) when I'm over there, but does quite a lot of off road stuff, including towing a 12 ft ifor Williams trailer (dp120) so the stalling at set off is becoming ball ache.

It's a swb commercial, round light, if that makes any difference.

Will be a couple of weeks before I get a chance to read the codes as I'm bak in Essex.

Bare with me! Is there a procedure for reading codes other than a scanner?

 

[makeitfit]

MIL is the engine management light, usually comes on when the ecu has a fit and puts the engine into limp mode. The sort of issues you describe should make it come on. Not defo but I would expect it. You can get the codes with the use of a paper clip and stuffing it up it's slot :lol
It's in the downloads somewhere, and involves counting the number of times the MIL flasshes :thumbs
Assuming it does light up of course

 

[Fez_uk]

might be worth seeing the mil light comes on before starting to know if the light is connected.

 

[makeitfit]

That's what I meant, cheers Fez :thumb2

 

[Ó hÉidin]

An orange light For the engine comes on, it's on the left hand side of the dash, is that the same light.

 

[makeitfit]

I think it's got a pic of engine on it ?

 

[Ó hÉidin]

Yeah that's the one.

 

[makeitfit]

Yeah that's the one.

Ker-ching Nick a paper clip from work and stuff that up it's slot for hours of fun counting the flashy light

 

[Ó hÉidin]

Ker-ching Nick a paper clip from work and stuff that up it's slot for hours of fun counting the flashy light

Bang on. Cheers. Starting to think it might be the timing, so maybe the crankshaft sensor is my kiddy, will read the codes in a fortnight and report back. Thanks

 

[Ó hÉidin]

Bang on. Cheers. Starting to think it might be the timing, so maybe the crankshaft sensor is my kiddy, will read the codes in a fortnight and report back. Thanks

Just looked on downloads can't see any instructions. Canyons point me in the right direction.

 

[clivvy]

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/links.htm

look down the list, its in there!

as the other say, check the codes, watch out for rogue codes though, i.e. codes the ECU throws in a wobbler because its confused!

anyway, im leaning towards CKP, purely because I had shed loads of issues with mine, and its my favourite fix to bang on about.:clap Plus of course, CKP affect timing/injection blahdy blah, consider the mileage of your car too, and age, the CKP's simply do not last the lifetime of the engine, as age wears down that little magnet...!

 

[Kamsin]

Just looked on downloads can't see any instructions. Canyons point me in the right direction.

http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ec.pdf

Look for page 365.