Juddery engine

[glanrichbex]

Terrano 2.7TDI year2000 R20

I still have the engine judder at 1900 revs - changed MAF, cleaned the banjo filter in the fuel pump, cleaned right through the intake, intercooler .... gave up on it and decided to live with it :nenau but now a few months later another fault has developed.

When I dip the clutch as if to prevent a stall, the engine judders badly for a few seconds before going to normal tick over. It clears if you rev but it's a pain when trying to manouver.
Any ideas?

The engine management light has not come on and there are no faults codes comming up on the diagnostic?? :banghead

 

[Banshee]

Terrano 2.7TDI year2000 R20

I still have the engine judder at 1900 revs - changed MAF, cleaned the banjo filter in the fuel pump, cleaned right through the intake, intercooler .... gave up on it and decided to live with it :nenau but now a few months later another fault has developed.

When I dip the clutch as if to prevent a stall, the engine judders badly for a few seconds before going to normal tick over. It clears if you rev but it's a pain when trying to manouver.
Any ideas?

The engine management light has not come on and there are no faults codes comming up on the diagnostic?? :banghead

I've had this about 6-7 times since having the car but it always seems to cure itself, a few things I have noticed;

1. It only happens when I'm using veg
2. It only happens when the engine is cold

So I'm def going to say it could be fuel

 

[geoffdown]

Terrano 2.7TDI year2000 R20

I still have the engine judder at 1900 revs - changed MAF, cleaned the banjo filter in the fuel pump, cleaned right through the intake, intercooler .... gave up on it and decided to live with it :nenau but now a few months later another fault has developed.

When I dip the clutch as if to prevent a stall, the engine judders badly for a few seconds before going to normal tick over. It clears if you rev but it's a pain when trying to manouver.
Any ideas?

The engine management light has not come on and there are no faults codes comming up on the diagnostic?? :banghead

Which maf have u got .

 

[R1cho]

first thing i'd do is change the fuel filter, they're only cheap and if thats the problem job done, best way is start with the cheapest option and work your way up, that what i do, its nearly 100% always the cheaper part thats at fault thats why they are consumables, next check all fuel lines for leaks again another cheap fix as can be replaced for next to nothing with rubber fuel line

 

[stinka]

Yep, stick another fuel filter on it

Perhaps replace the larger of the coolant senders as that is for the ecu and determines the cold fueling/timing etc and they're only about £17 from general traffic auto supplies

 

[glanrichbex]

Yep, stick another fuel filter on it

Perhaps replace the larger of the coolant senders as that is for the ecu and determines the cold fueling/timing etc and they're only about £17 from general traffic auto supplies

I'll replace the fuel filter tomorrow :thumb2 - what's this coolant sender? - you may be on to something here as this is something I havn't looked into.

 

[solarman216]

I'll replace the fuel filter tomorrow :thumb2 - what's this coolant sender? - you may be on to something here as this is something I havn't looked into.

you have two senders on the stat housing one does the gauge the other goes to the ECU so if faulty will be telling the ECU that maybe the engine is cold when in fact it is hot, this will muck up the fuel delivery, but rayf will tell you more than I can, Rick

Just noticed yours is 2000 model not sure if same applies

 

[panelbeater]

veg and cold mean thicker fuel.
have you put some petrol into it to thin it,its better than derv at thinning veg.
then if you do add, say 12% rug you need to up the cetane rating with a dribble of acetone,0.1%,its cheap and does wonders to the fuel.
then does the ip timing need advancing a bit.
i am new to the r20 but thats what most wvo/veg users do.
then theres flat plate heat exchangers,put in the hot water line to preheat the fuel befor the ip.then,the list goes on and on.
i have used this for many years and thousands of miles,even on a lucas ip with no trouble.

 

[glanrichbex]

O.K finally got round to having a look today.

The large sensor measures 2.2K when cold and decreases in resistance as it warms up. Is 2.2K about right for this sensor? :nenau

 

[Banshee]

veg and cold mean thicker fuel.
have you put some petrol into it to thin it,its better than derv at thinning veg.
then if you do add, say 12% rug you need to up the cetane rating with a dribble of acetone,0.1%,its cheap and does wonders to the fuel.
then does the ip timing need advancing a bit.
i am new to the r20 but thats what most wvo/veg users do.
then theres flat plate heat exchangers,put in the hot water line to preheat the fuel befor the ip.then,the list goes on and on.
i have used this for many years and thousands of miles,even on a lucas ip with no trouble.

First time I've heard of anyone using Acetone, might invest in a few bottles.
I have found that using Petrol to thin the Veg down does work better than Diesel

Might invest in a heated fuel filter soon too, not sure if it's worth it though as were getting later on into the year

 

[Kamsin]

My truck has had a Judder since i had it 2 years ago, only does it around 1,200 rpm when driving. Never with the clutch pressed in when i sat in the drive trying to find the problem.

I have been asking on here and othe places and every idea someone has had i have done, NONE OF THEM WORKED. I still do not know what the problem is and decided to just put up with it.

One person gae me some advice, and its the onlt one i have not done as its a pain. He said its the foot pedel, swap that and you will be ok. Maybe he is right i dont know. When i plug into the computer there is a gap in resopnse when you press the pedel before anything shows on the screen.