Isolator Switch - where should I stick it!?

[Goatmaster]

I have a voltage leak which is from the interior lights and I have a hunch, the alarm. Therefore so as to protect the new battery an isolator switch, accessable from the outside, is the immediate solution whilst further tests can take place.

My question is has anyone found, or can they suggest, a convenient position for the switch. I was thinking front of the car below bumper but have a couple of meters of cable to play with.

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Let's have a pic of front bumper

 

[solarman216]

Mmmm deal with this with care, most heavy switches are not and if mounted outside and subject to moisture will fail in no time, do not use the silly red plastic switch type, they are useless, you need the extra heavy duty metal key type 2500 amps, if you want reliability, cost around £8, Rick

 

[terranosaurusdoug]

Mmmm deal with this with care, most heavy switches are not and if mounted outside and subject to moisture will fail in no time, do not use the silly red plastic switch type, they are useless, you need the extra heavy duty metal key type 2500 amps, if you want reliability, cost around £8, Rick

I can vouch for this as mine failed when I tried to use it today, I had to connect the wires manually. Mine is for my winch.

 

[solarman216]

Point here is intermittent load V continuous load 300 amp intermittent will not last long regularly starting your motor, Rick

 

[Goatmaster]

Darn, a silly 300A red one is what I have ordered.
However I should point out that the isolation is not for the heavy duty main lead to the starter as there is no indication of a drain on this cable. The problem is with a spur from the +ve clamp that feeds into the interior electrics and is less than 10mm in core diameter. It will just be this spur that which will be switched.

 

[Banshee]

I had the exact same problem.

Turned out to be a fault with the IMMU under the fusebox :thumb2

 

[Goatmaster]

Is an IMMU the immobilized and how did you fix it or was it a question of replacing it?

 

[Banshee]

Is an IMMU the immobilized and how did you fix it or was it a question of replacing it?

Swapped it and it fixed all my problems including bringing back the tone that sounds if you leave the key in the ignition and also gave me back the functionality of interior lights on door switches, previous to that I only had permanent on or off at the switch, 3rd position wouldn't do anything :thumb2

 

[Goatmaster]

That seems all too similar to what I a suffering. Is there a how to write up?

 

[Banshee]

That seems all too similar to what I a suffering. Is there a how to write up?

Sorry mate, didn't really do a write up.

Just need to swap this unit;

The IMMU is the Siemens unit above the fuses that can be unclipped and swapped, as far as I'm aware there aren't any differences between units on the 2.7.

I had one in stock until last week, TDoug had my last one after his watery adventure :lol :splif:

 

[Goatmaster]

Thank you so much for the pointers.
Is it possible to just remove it and do without the central locking or are there other components that it controls?

 

[solarman216]

Darn, a silly 300A red one is what I have ordered.
However I should point out that the isolation is not for the heavy duty main lead to the starter as there is no indication of a drain on this cable. The problem is with a spur from the +ve clamp that feeds into the interior electrics and is less than 10mm in core diameter. It will just be this spur that which will be switched.

In that case the 300 A one will be fine, but do not let it get wet, Rick

 

[Banshee]

Thank you so much for the pointers.
Is it possible to just remove it and do without the central locking or are there other components that it controls?

Didn't try to be fair mate, pull yours and see :nenau

 

[Goatmaster]

Would do but car is parked on the side of a busy road and at the moment battery will no longer start it. Will have to wait until I can get a jump start and move it tomorrow. I can then get it to a safer place and hopefully pick up new battery and replacement MAF

 

[Banshee]

Would do but car is parked on the side of a busy road and at the moment battery will no longer start it. Will have to wait until I can get a jump start and move it tomorrow. I can then get it to a safer place and hopefully pick up new battery and replacement MAF

I've got MAF's :thumb2

 

[elty001]

I can vouch for this as mine failed when I tried to use it today, I had to connect the wires manually. Mine is for my winch.

I got about 4 years out of mine,400 amp winch max mounted on the front grill.
Plenty of grease on the terminals and always give it and the winch a quick blast every now and then and give it a good blast with GT40 maintenance spray to make sure all is well.
Replaced it with the same type last year.
For £8.00 I'm not grumbling :thumb2

 

[Goatmaster]

I've got MAF's :thumb2

I wish I had know. Went and bought a couple on eBay. One second hand Bosch and one new mickey mouse
Can't see either lasting too long so will be back to you.
Just desperate to try and get enough power to have the turbo work. If I can get the thing to start consistently then that will be the next thread.

 

[Goatmaster]

The IMMU is the Siemens unit above the fuses that can be unclipped and swapped, as far as I'm aware there aren't any differences between units on the 2.7.

Looking across eBay there are many of these from 3 ltr that have the same code numbers to the 2.7 but they all seem to come with the fuses as well. Is this because they do not unclip in the same way and have different connectors?

My thought was being newer they might have fewer issues.

 

[macabethiel]

Remote type

I have a voltage leak which is from the interior lights and I have a hunch, the alarm. Therefore so as to protect the new battery an isolator switch, accessible from the outside, is the immediate solution whilst further tests can take place.

My question is has anyone found, or can they suggest, a convenient position for the switch. I was thinking front of the car below bumper but have a couple of meters of cable to play with.

You can buy isolator switches that fit adjacent to the battery that have a remote control to switch them on & off. They are marketed as a immobilizer / theft reduction unit.

I saw them advertised in a Classic Car Mag - they weren't crazy money.