Inner Wheel Arch Rubbers

[Banshee]

I need both sides with clips for a 96' facelift Maverick

 

[Fez_uk]

leave them off, more trouble than they are worth.

 

[jims-terrano]

I bought a pack of expanding rivet things from ebay for a couple of quid I think.

 

[millie2]

What aboout screenwash bottle protection, I would love to take mine off. KEV

 

[Banshee]

leave them off, more trouble than they are worth.

Don't want to get the old chassis rot though

Will LWB pre-facelift ones fit a SWB facelift?

 

[Fez_uk]

Don't want to get the old chassis rot though

Will LWB pre-facelift ones fit a SWB facelift?

By not having it won't cause it to rot any faster.

 

[Banshee]

By not having it won't cause it to rot any faster.

:nenau Surely that's why it was put there, wheels rotate and cause spray, spray then gets deflected by the rubbers and then runs off onto the floor rather than covering all the chassis and engine components in water

 

[makeitfit]

And the water off the road everywhere else on the chassis erm doesn't wet it at all :nenau
Nah it's just to stop spray going into the engine bay , a bit

 

[rustic]

make your own either from rubber sheet, or vinyl flooring material.

I am great believer of keeping mud away from as many things as possible.:thumbs

 

[trophymick]

make your own either from rubber sheet, or vinyl flooring material.

I am great believer of keeping mud away from as many things as possible.:thumbs

That's a good policy, I did those mud traps by the bottom front door hinges the other day. Have you retained your mud-flaps or took them off, they seem guilty of detainment? :naughty


Mick

 

[makeitfit]

make your own either from rubber sheet, or vinyl flooring material.

I am great believer of keeping mud away from as many things as possible.:thumbs

You're quite right for road car but as soon as you start messin' off road I think it's best to get rid of as much mud as possible.
Remember also the inner plastic bits are excellent at holding in muddy muck to feed the tin worms
My rotten old 96 Maverick was rusting from the body trim holes before I abused the rest of it :doh
Most people won't be aware of that till it's too late :augie

 

[rustic]

That's a good policy, I did those mud traps by the bottom front door hinges the other day. Have you retained your mud-flaps or took them off, they seem guilty of detainment? :naughty
Mick

I regularly wash through the back of the front mud flaps, this part of the vehicle doesn't wash through to the sills, so you are in no danger of pushing mud there.
Last year I checked behind this area, it was free of mud, free of rust, so I gave it another coat of waxoyl.

I also wash through the front wings from when the front doors are open too, basically, if I use a hose and mud comes out when it didn't before, then this is part of my washing routine.

As are the edges of the wheel arches, with a spray washing from inside out, I usually get soaked doing this...:doh

There are two areas I want to check and de rust if required , and that is the front cross member, bumper off job, and the area under the rear seat.
The out riggers that hold the outer edges of the front bumper are showing signs of rusting, so time to gain access to it. Job for after the MOT me thinks...

These areas from what I have read on this forum are areas that require the most attention, as they are out of sight, out of mind, quietly rusting away until the rust breaks through, then major surgery is required to fix it.

Another silent location, is the sills, mud gets in, drains block, water gets in from either the sun roof drain, or from some of the unblocked drains, leaving the area wet all the time. Keeping the drains clear is essential, but also getting that mud out.

AND THE BIG ONE....Well the first serious rust on my Mav so far :doh
The fuel tank is vulnerable to rusting on the front seam, if you look at the seam between the front 3 mounting bolts you will probably see that the seam has started to expand due to rust that pushes apart the seam and WILL eventually cause the weld at the rear to split, this will eventually cause a fuel leak.

Of all the second hand tanks I have looked at, they have all started to expand, some worse than others, I eventually found one that was not as bad as the others, and I have used rust converter in the seam, and then epoxied over the seam to keep the water out, thus stopping the rust in its tracks... I hope... watch this space.

Now what I found is...
I saw a minor leak, so I slackened the tank mounting bolts to make sure I could remove the tank, tightened them up again... Guess what, the leak was much worse, :doh:doh as probably the built up compression of the rust was being kept in check by the tight bolts.

So warning, if you slacken your bolts, then you could well create a leak that wasn't there before.

Maybe you could start the rust treatment with the tank in situe, consider this, power wash the seam, let it dry, get some liquid rust converter, use a syringe like you get with printer ink refills, inject the seam over a few days, when converted, push in some epoxy chemical metal, or leak fix, to keep the water out.
This will not cure a leak, mine was too late, BUT it might buy you some time, I wish I did mine a year ago.:doh
This is only a suggestion, and may or may not work, you need to make your own mind up.:nenau


Hope it helps.

Best regards,
Rustic

Is that Rust I See, = Rust I C = Rustic:lol:lol:lol

 

[makeitfit]

Just a note on the sills Rustic. They also get wet from interior condensation on all body panels. That runs down and into the sills. In theory , out again :augie
I also noted that my older pre TDi mavericks I had were much less bothered by rust in general. I wonder if paint changed or just all the extra body trim is the cause of newer truck rust :nenau

 

[Banshee]

Rustic, you seem the go to guy to talk to about Waxoyl

How much would you charge to go over the underside of my car with the stuff including materials if you interested, your only down the road from me

 

[rustic]

Rustic, you seem the go to guy to talk to about Waxoyl How much would you charge to go over the underside of my car with the stuff including materials if you interested, your only down the road from me

Not something I would offer as I tend to spend too long on it, then I get distracted and find something else to put waxoyl on.:doh I even did the bleed screws on the brakes 18 years ago. Brake lines, fuel pipes all were done.

It's an on going job, I'm afraid, it's just down to getting under it with a brush, the secret is removing trim and getting behind that. The problem is that on older vehicles you need to get all the crud off, otherwise you are trapping that in.

There are companies that will do it, with simiar products.
If I use a spray, I always seem to get covered in it as well:doh But then again I have never shown signs of rust.

I tend now to concentrate on one area at a time and blitz that, say front nearside wheel arch, wheel off, arches off, inner liner off, next time the other side. When I did a recent oil change, I removed the nearside wheel, and liner to get access to the filter, another opportunity to touch up the waxoyl.
I noticed today that by removing the rear light cluster in the rear bumper, you gain access to the end of the chassis. I was changing a tail light bulb, as it was intermittent, shame to fail MOT on that...

When I remove the front bumper it will be on a hot day, and I'll power wash the area, let it dry, then treat the rust and finally waxoyl.

When short of time, I waxoyl over small areas of chassis rust after just light wire brushing, it stops it getting worse. When replacing brake pads, my last job is with a jar of waxoyl and a brush, and touch up local areas..
When I replaced the wing aerial, last year, I removed all the trim, and noticed that the front wing was still in perfect condition. It was a bit scary as I didn't know what to expect after all I waxoyled it 17 years before. A bit more waxoyl here and there as I could get to new areas.

When I had the diesel tank out, it revealed a section of the underside I hadn't seen before, so out with the waxoyl, just in case.
Same when I removed the battery, it is worth having a few jam jars pre loaded with waxoyl, as the biggest problem with it, is getting it out of the can.
I always stand it in a bucket of hot water for half an hour, shake it up, then fill the jars ready for the next year of touching up.

High wash areas require continued application, wheel arches and the lower wishbone need constant application, but if you are under the truck greasing the steering stops, the jar of waxoyl and a brush is also to hand.

I now use one of those plastic cement mixing bases slid under to catch the bits from the wire brush, and the drips of waxoyl, better than plastic sheets. A quick power wash, and it is clean again.

So how many hours have I spent waxoyling the Mav in the last 18 years?:nenau

I dread to think, but it is payback time now.
By doing it during normal maintenance tasks only adds a few minutes to the job, as most of the time would have been spent getting access to the base parts.


So TIP:
Keep a few jam jars of waxoyl handy, and a paint brush wrapped in a plastic bag, ready for immediate action.

best regards,

Rustic

 

[rustic]

Just a note on the sills Rustic. They also get wet from interior condensation on all body panels. That runs down and into the sills. In theory , out again :augie
I also noted that my older pre TDi mavericks I had were much less bothered by rust in general. I wonder if paint changed or just all the extra body trim is the cause of newer truck rust :nenau

The earlier Mavericks I think had better under body protection,( probably to Ford spec) than the Terranos, and both had better protection than the imports.

Late acrylic paints don't like constantly damp areas, so this could be a factor too.

Another advantage I have with my Mav, that has helped, is an integral garage which is warm and dry and wait for it...
I have a de-humidifier in there too. So it's not all down to waxoyl.

Best regards,
Rustic