Ignition

[lacroupade]

Clivvy, just looked and nothing at all in the manual except, in case theres any confusion at the dealership, the other bit you DON'T want is the NATS IMMU that sits on top of the barrel. I'm sure if you explain the circumstances you'll find what you want.....

 

[lacroupade]

If you can be bothered, it might be worth taking the existing one off and trying a clean up with very fine sandpaper....its always better to replace in the long run, but you'll see how it comes apart then, and its easy to spot the burnt bit, and if you can clean it back to bare metal you might buy yourself a bit of time?

 

[clivvy]

ok, will give that a try, but next week as I need the car running this weekend as we are picking up a caravan in Manchester, but thanks very much for the advice, I will let you all know how i get on...

 

[jims-terrano]

It's simply called an ignition switch, not sure about Fords but the first 5 digits of the Nissan part number is 48750 and then there is a second set of 5 digits. You may be able to buy second hand but in this case I would say new is better.
Remove the steering cowls, you'll have to work that bit out as it's ages since I did mine. You'll see the steering lock with the switch below it. Unplug the wiring loom from the switch. Now this is where it gets tricky. You need a small cross head driver, I got a screw drive bit with a hex drive and used a 7mm spanner on it to turn it. I've heard of people putting a 90 degree bend on a screw driver. Once you have removed the screw the switch just pulls away without any problem.

Jim T

 

[clivvy]

cheers Jim, sounds like I have just the tool-A ratchet screw driver that takes bits...its like a ratchet spanner, but with a screw driver fitment.

 

[clivvy]

hi guys,
well i got a used ignition switch and fitted it. started first time, but after a couple of tries it is back to doing what is has been doing!

i noticed the connector doesnt fit absolute flush like most electrical connectors do, could this be an issue? anything else I can try before buying a brand new switch, or do you think i might be in the right tarck, just need a brand new switch?

also, i checked my fuses, i dont have a fuse in the spot where is says "fuel pump" should there be? i do have one in air con, but i dont have air con, can i take it out?

 

[lacroupade]

hi guys,
well i got a used ignition switch and fitted it. started first time, but after a couple of tries it is back to doing what is has been doing!

i noticed the connector doesnt fit absolute flush like most electrical connectors do, could this be an issue? anything else I can try before buying a brand new switch, or do you think i might be in the right tarck, just need a brand new switch?

also, i checked my fuses, i dont have a fuse in the spot where is says "fuel pump" should there be? i do have one in air con, but i dont have air con, can i take it out?

Dunno about the fuse Clivvy but as Jim says re the switch, 'new is best'! The fact it started fine at first is a pointer I'd say...

 

[clivvy]

Dunno about the fuse Clivvy but as Jim says re the switch, 'new is best'! The fact it started fine at first is a pointer I'd say...

right then, new part it is. I suppose the other stuff I can check is just time and tools-need to re check start motor cables once i have disconnected the battery, I also want to plug in a diagnostics tool to read any fault codes, but no idea which device I need, any one know or have one? I dont fancy the bridging of contacts etc

 

[norrie]

hi i had same probelm was solenoid on top of
starter motor conection was slack cut old one
of and joind new one been ok since

 

[clivvy]

I think considering the guy I bought my maverick of didnt tighten up the wheels after changing the breaks, I will check the solenoid as he also changed the starter motor. I am not a mechanic, but have done a starter motor before, but just to check, for safety, I only need to disconnect the negative battery terminal?

 

[jims-terrano]

Yes you should be fine disconnecting the negative, just ensure it's tucked away safely so that it doesn't spring back on to the terminal.

If you are checking the starter contacts it might not be a bad idea to give them a coat of grease to protect them. As far as I'm aware you can get to the starter from the driverside wheel arch, you just remove the plastic cover.

Jim T


PS when you've graised your knuckles you can come and do mine:thumbs

 

[clivvy]

ok great, thanks for that I feel mroe confident in my own knowledge now!

I can see the starter perfectly from the engine bay, fuse box side, and can see the cables, will try that at first, if I cant get to ip proper, might gounderneath, if that fails, I will take the wheel off, I am just trying to avoid taking the wheel off!

incidently, I "cleaned" my MAF today, as it was caked in crap/ One element is shiney, the other loosk kinda burnt gray brown-going to try my carb cleaner later again tho, but anyway, the little cleaning I did give it made a difference, it hasnt doen the odd revving thing at all today, hasnt cut out, EML hasnt popped up as much and running seems a touch better, so I am going to buy a new MAF also, if I can find one..!! I have the hitachi one on mine...