How do you remove the sump

Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum

Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

waterman

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
138
My sump is leaking and as I now have a replacement what is the best way of removing the old sump and fitting the replacement and can it be done in situ as it will be a big job to take the engine out just for that
Any suggestions please? (decent ones!!!!!)
 
will pm you the method i used to remove it as best as i can remember.
 
I have also been looking at the easiest way to remove the sump on a TDi and found this post but cannot find anything in the download section on sump removal. What is the best way to takle it or is it just as easy to remove the engine first.
Thanks

Hugh
 
Engine out is the only sensible way, you can fiddle about dropping the front diff but you still cannot get the sump past the oil pick up tube, and trying to remove that and refitting it, in situe with the sump in the way is a real pig, and bear in mind it on refitting if the seal is not pefect, then no oil = bad news, Rick
 
hmm.... was thinking of pulling my sump off. to clean it all. as whenever i change the oil its dirty again before not very long at all. id love to have clean oil . id bloody love it
 
dirty oil

I think you're dreaming an impossible dream to have clean oil for more than 5 minutes with any diesel engine.

Good quality diesel oils are brimming with detergents and they capture the carbon and hold it in suspension hence the black colour. As the oil nears the end of its life it turns very black indeed and if you leave it too long it ends up like black treacle.

Back in the early seventies when Shell Rotella was king and piston / engine bore tollerences were poor your oil went black in less than an hour. That probably led to the misplaced use of flushing oils.

My Terrano R3mR engine oil was pretty grim when I first bought it so I bought myself a 20 Litre Tub of Chevron semi-synthetic for £35 from Cost-Co whilst it was on offer and set about changing the oil every month for 4 months (alternate month filter change).

I am sure I got rid of some crap but guess what after 3k miles it was nice and black in appearance again.

I would not recommend you try it but if you used some cheap single grade oil intended for petrol engine lubrication it would stay cleaner looking longer but the carbon would probably end up as carbon swarf on the inside of your engine.
 
Thanks for the response

However do you not need to remove the front diff or cross member to allow the engine to move far enough forward to get it off the gearbox. Or maybe the question should be what is the easist way to get the engine out.

H
 
Just a little snippet of info re oil, the difinetive method of determining how bad or good your oil is, is to place a drop between two glass slides (two bits of glass) you will need a key and that is new oil and a sample of oil at the end of its life, you can then compare your sample with the two reference samples, simple, yes it does work and very well, Rick
 
Simple comparison of deepness of black, try it you will be amassed, Rick
 
I might add to earlier posts that it is impossible to get the engine out of a 2.4 petrol without removing the front diff, the diesels yes you can we did did with Briggies, Rick
 
Simple comparison of deepness of black, try it you will be amassed, Rick

ahh..............I was looking for a bit more than a dulux paint chart experience ;)

We used to separate out oils for particles checks, particularly on the hydraulics. produced some interesting results.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top