Help.... Warning light

[MontysMaverick]

On my R3mR I had the same issue earlier in the year.

On mine the light has three functions.

1. Handrake warning light.

2. Low brake fluid.

3. Brake servo fault.

On mine it was a perished vaccum hose. There were six or seven hoses in all the and they run from the vacuum pump on the alternator.

This is interesting as the alternator is on the same side as the front pipe and as rustic asked, they did get the welding gear out for the pins onto the manifold, worth a look what do you think guys?????

 

[kbekl]

have all vacume pipes been checked for craking and breaks as this seems to be a good way forward

 

[rustic]

Right, hold your horses, I have a copy of the French manual for the TD.
So I will compile how it works on the next post. few minutes ....:thumbs
Rustic

Here we go, the red light has a +ve supply from the console.( ignition on)
On the other side of the light it goes to :

1 Low level brake fluid switch with a yellow and black wire
2 Brake servo, ie no vacuum boost, also on a yellow and black wire.


The other sides to both of these switches goes to earth, so the yellow and black wire is earthed somewhere, either one of the 2 switches or the cable itself.

There is no other connection, no wires to any ecu etc.
This is as simple as it can be.
Regards, Rustic

 

[kbekl]

right i am confused here now is this s 1995 maverick td or a tdi

i have the english owners manual for the td

 

[macabethiel]

Red light

This is interesting as the alternator is on the same side as the front pipe and as rustic asked, they did get the welding gear out for the pins onto the manifold, worth a look what do you think guys?????[/QUOTE

Although I was loosing quite a lot of vacuum the brakes seemed OK though they were probably down on efficiency.

The rubber pipes ran from the alternator to a steel section on the bulkhead. Then to a vacuum reservoir cylinder, then up th bulkhead in steel, back to rubber from bulkead to a couple of T pieces and eventually to the servo with a small pipe to the vacuum switch that actuated the warning light. Some hoses went to the AGR valve and some other weird unit on the fuel sytem.

 

[MontysMaverick]

have all vacume pipes been checked for craking and breaks as this seems to be a good way forward

Soory for the delay the computer decided to die as well as the car:lol:lol

NO THESE HAVENT BEEN CHECKED.

1st job dont you think?????

 

[rustic]

This is interesting as the alternator is on the same side as the front pipe and as rustic asked, they did get the welding gear out for the pins onto the manifold, worth a look what do you think guys?????[/QUOTE

Although I was loosing quite a lot of vacuum the brakes seemed OK though they were probably down on efficiency.

The rubber pipes ran from the alternator to a steel section on the bulkhead. Then to a vacuum reservoir cylinder, then up th bulkhead in steel, back to rubber from bulkead to a couple of T pieces and eventually to the servo with a small pipe to the vacuum switch that actuated the warning light. Some hoses went to the AGR valve and some other weird unit on the fuel sytem.

They may have pierced a vac cable with weld spatter.
find the No Vacuum switch.

 

[kbekl]

Soory for the delay the computer decided to die as well as the car:lol:lol

NO THESE HAVENT BEEN CHECKED.

1st job dont you think?????

should have been lol

but then if they dont know the car and the computer dont tell to check their they wont know lol

 

[MontysMaverick]

Here we go, the red light has a +ve supply from the console.( ignition on)
On the other side of the light it goes to :

1 Low level brake fluid switch with a yellow and black wire
2 Brake servo, ie no vacuum boost, also on a yellow and black wire.


The other sides to both of these switches goes to earth, so the yellow and black wire is earthed somewhere, either one of the 2 switches or the cable itself.

There is no other connection, no wires to any ecu etc.
This is as simple as it can be.
Regards, Rustic

Richard, As we thought then no diagnostics on a TD

Looks like he may well of caught a vacuum pipe dont you think ????

Thought you were heading in the right direction when you said about tackling the job with "bottles"

Thanks Richard

 

[kbekl]

i managed to get my down pipe off after i sheared 1 bolt off lol

 

[MontysMaverick]

They may have pierced a vac cable with weld spatter.
find the No Vacuum switch.

Anybody know how this can be checked for loss of vacuum is it to pump the pedal a few times to empty the servo and then turn the ignition on with your foot lightly on the pedal and try and feel the "kickback"

and

Anybody know where this "no vacuum switch"is?????

 

[MontysMaverick]

should have been lol

but then if they dont know the car and the computer dont tell to check their they wont know lol

Karl your getting as bad as me not their computer MINE I lost signal on me dongle and it fussed up the internet :lol:lol:lol
but thanks for trying:thumbs:thumbs

 

[MontysMaverick]

This is interesting as the alternator is on the same side as the front pipe and as rustic asked, they did get the welding gear out for the pins onto the manifold, worth a look what do you think guys?????[/QUOTE

Although I was loosing quite a lot of vacuum the brakes seemed OK though they were probably down on efficiency.

The rubber pipes ran from the alternator to a steel section on the bulkhead. Then to a vacuum reservoir cylinder, then up th bulkhead in steel, back to rubber from bulkead to a couple of T pieces and eventually to the servo with a small pipe to the vacuum switch that actuated the warning light. Some hoses went to the AGR valve and some other weird unit on the fuel sytem.

Until this post came along I was really pissed off and thinking the weekend would be screwed, taking all that extra sticky tape of the loom BUT this is promising and as Briggie says "coincidence I dont think so" Thanks matey you just may of saved my weekend :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

 

[MontysMaverick]

To all concerned

thanks fellas youve been wonderful all of you, special thanks go to you all who have persisted with this and tried and helped, Briggie for the manuals, Rustic,karl and macbethiel and clivvy and ray and anyone else I ve missed,

First thing tommorrow I shall be checking all them hoses on the near side,(take off and plug one end and then put the airline down there), and checking anything else that I see,

Hopefully, It will be resolved weather permitting, tommorrow,

THANKS AGAIN FELLAS .

:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap

 

[briggie]

while you are down there , may i suggest you look for damage to wiring/plugs etc too ?

 

[rustic]

thanks fellas youve been wonderful all of you, special thanks go to you all who have persisted with this and tried and helped, Briggie for the manuals, Rustic,karl and macbethiel and clivvy and ray and anyone else I ve missed,

First thing tommorrow I shall be checking all them hoses on the near side,(take off and plug one end and then put the airline down there), and checking anything else that I see,

Hopefully, It will be resolved weather permitting, tommorrow,

THANKS AGAIN FELLAS .

:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap

Don't use an air line on vacuum pipes, you will burst them as they normally work at -1bar (-15psi) You will blow apart all the joints and destroy the vac switch and maybe damage the non return valve in the servo, and wreck the vac pump.

In final conclusion.
Just inspect all the small black vac pipes near to the exhaust, and look for another connector with the yellow and black wire and you will find the vac switch and work from there.
With the servo, there is probably a non return valve that protects the vacuum for the brakes despite any other leakage, and the no vac switch sees just that, because of a leak.
You may also find the the EGR valve is disabled etc

Best regards,
Richard (Rustic)

 

[MontysMaverick]

while you are down there , may i suggest you look for damage to wiring/plugs etc too ?

Yes of course pete you may suggest anything, you should know that, and yes Ill be all over it like a rash.

I do feel a little more confident now as previously I was proper fed up, you know how it is with these things they get under your skin and it breeds

As it is its cost me a bunch of flowers for her indoors as she walked into a whirlwind when she got home and said " NOT YOUR CAR..... AGAIN"

Cheers Pete

Lyndon :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs

 

[MontysMaverick]

Don't use an air line on vacuum pipes, you will burst them as they normally work at -1bar (-15psi) You will blow apart all the joints and destroy the vac switch and maybe damage the non return valve in the servo, and wreck the vac pump.

In final conclusion.
Just inspect all the small black vac pipes near to the exhaust, and look for another connector with the yellow and black wire and you will find the vac switch and work from there.
With the servo, there is probably a non return valve that protects the vacuum for the brakes despite any other leakage, and the no vac switch sees just that, because of a leak.
You may also find the the EGR valve is disabled etc

Best regards,
Richard (Rustic)

Youve just convinced me of what I should do, and that is to take it back to the garage and take my laptop, log on and show them this post, dont you think, I aint got the experience to do what you have said, well not yet anyway...

Cheers Lyndon

 

[rustic]

Youve just convinced me of what I should do, and that is to take it back to the garage and take my laptop, log on and show them this post, dont you think, I aint got the experience to do what you have said, well not yet anyway...

Cheers Lyndon

Or print it off.

 

[rustic]

Or print it off.

Or cut and paste it into word then you won't need to be on line.:thumbs