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thanks Dave, there are two possible adjustments on the two pulleys, one is the backward tilt of the top pulley and the other is shimming of the carrier arm for the whole top assembly, this is on the slider that goes up and down to tension the blade, I use a straight edge to align both pulleys, Rick

try tilting it forward a little so the blade sits back more an the bottom of the pulley they are not suppose to be in dead alignment . because if I remember they will always work forward
 
for bud, just had a thought, if I tilt the whole top assembly back a little so that the blade is able to stay against the bottom pulley flange and tilt the top pulley back a little as well does this make sense, by a little I mean a mm or so pulley to pulley, Rick
 
Long shot here ,have you tried another blade [band]?

Does it always jump off the same way?

Flip the blade inside out, if it slips off the other way then the blade [band] is at fault.

It has already been suggested the weld may be wonky, lay the blade [band] on a totally flat surface, there should be 100% contact, either way up particularly at the weld

Are the guides correctly aligned? Slack them off see if you get the same problem
 
rick it is defiantly the tlit pulley adjustment needed . the tension should be tight like 3mm movement in the blade . but to keep the blade on it is the tilt one . I can remember if we wanted a break we would just hit the back of the blade with our knifes to knock the blade off . :naughty
 
do the adjustments while you turn the pulley by hand and you should see the blade work back on then . the teeth of the blade should just be off the pulleys edge . plus it should be on a solid level floor and when you move it it may need readjustment
 
Ok, kim has found an answer for your problem - blade slipping off.

try putting a piece of very flat metal under the housing of the top wheel, It will lift up and tilt the wheel just enough to keep it from coming off.
 
kitchenman and dave, yes done all that, new blade just the same, seems to me the pulleys need to be out of alignment slightly ie bottom slightly / and top slightly \ and I mean slightly, will try this tomorrow, Rick
 
kitchenman and dave, yes done all that, new blade just the same, seems to me the pulleys need to be out of alignment slightly ie bottom slightly / and top slightly \ and I mean slightly, will try this tomorrow, Rick

rick .that's what I'm saying they need to be slightly out of alignment and the tilt adjustment should do this . you just need to keep adjusting till it settle
 
Ok, kim has found an answer for your problem - blade slipping off.

try putting a piece of very flat metal under the housing of the top wheel, It will lift up and tilt the wheel just enough to keep it from coming off.

Paaahhhh... see post 7.....
 
Ok, kim has found an answer for your problem - blade slipping off.

try putting a piece of very flat metal under the housing of the top wheel, It will lift up and tilt the wheel just enough to keep it from coming off.

this machine Alex has an adjuster bolt to do just that, no joy, Rick
 
rick .that's what I'm saying they need to be slightly out of alignment and the tilt adjustment should do this . you just need to keep adjusting till it settle

thanks mate, yes have been adjusting the top pulley on its pivot but have just realised the top downward blade carbide block is still forward, but if I tilt the whole top structur back a little then this will go back as well, will give it a go tomorrow, Rick
 
tried many times today, problem seems to be it is random, the best result I had was 5 or 6 faultless starts then belt shed half a second after power on??????????????????????? Rick
 
tried many times today, problem seems to be it is random, the best result I had was 5 or 6 faultless starts then belt shed half a second after power on??????????????????????? Rick

If you videoed it, then went slow, could you know which part it came off first.
If you knew that... how would that help?

Just a thought.:nenau
 
video might be worth a try, but first I need to replace the V belt tween motor and bottom pulley, as it has a split in it, just wondering if the split is in a particular place on startup that it causes a problem? clutching at straws I know but there has to be some reason that it will start perfectly sometimes and others throw the blade instantly, bothe with old and new blade, have yet to put a dial gauge on the pulleys but they both look perfect when turning, Rick
 
Ahh slit v belt... might not give smooth constant speed to the drive pulley, the momentum of the blade and the un driven blade pulley might snatch the pulley from under the blade at certain parts of the revs, a bit like pulling a table cloth from under glasses and plates on a table.
Alex... do not try this at home.. lol :lol

OK not as dramatic as this, but the fact it is almost working most of the time, then this needs to be considered.

Also, the motor won't be a soft start, ie runs up from slow, this might also cause a snatch.

So... I wonder, if the capacitor on the motor is on it's way out.
If paper electrolytic, only have a limited life anyway, as they dry out.

I said you might need some lateral thinking and to look at other things.:nenau

Rustic
 
Well some success, new drive belt fitted and started the machine up 20 odd times, most times the blade remained steady on the bottom pulley a couple or so times it drifted forward but only a little, we will have to wait till tomorrow to see if when he cuts meat and bone it remains good, but fingers crossed, Rustic I would have tried a new but slightly smaller start capacitor already to lower the startup torque, but it is encased in a metal cover and the screws are solid and do not want to shear them just yet, if desperate measures are needed later then I will, Rick
 
its it level? as I'm guessing the pulleys are that flat type and as a result not being perfectly level may allow the blade to wander off
 
Mmmmmm food for thought, it has had the original legs removed (due to new kitchen has welded vinyl covering) and it is now sat on a very heavy S/S base on 6 heavy casters, now this brings me to a point, today on fitting the new drive belt the machine was sited 3 foot left of its normal place, not sure why, could be a link?? will check this out Monday, Rick
 
seems the drive belt was not the cure it promised to be first cut of meat and it was off again, Mobieus is this your field? Rick
 
not my field, but in my industry we have smooth pulleys that are designed to throw the belt in the event of a problem and they have to be level
if it was on fixed legs (no castors) it was for a reason i.e stop people moving it
 

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