Hello and help - immobilizer fault

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thecrazycabbage

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
83
Good Morning everyone!

My name's Dan, and I'm new - literally just paid up!

Unfortunatly, im going to do the next thing a newbie does when they find a forum such as this, cry for help.

HELP!

I have a 1996 2.7TD terrano, the pre-facelift one with the square headlights.

A few days ago, i left work, drove to the bank, turned off the truck and did the banking, jumped back in and *BAM* the immobilizer light wont go out, cranks, but wont fire.

I have 2 keys, the square ones with the red chips, one genuine which is worn and is a spare, the other is an aftermarket one. Never had any trouble before.

Had a mobile locksmith come out, other than asking if i keep my keys in the freezer or the microwave :rolleyes: he said the key chips are fine, but the cars not reading them.

From what I've found here, this isn't uncommon, and im kinda resigned to thinking this isn't going to be a quick easy fix. Now, my question is this;

If i buy a key set and immobilizer/ignition barrel from EBAY, do i also need the ECU?

All feedback is appreciated more than you know, my mode of transport until this is sorted is my sons 50cc twist and go ped.... :eek:
 
Quick edit, sorry for the double post -

The immobilizer LED on the dash flashed normally with the ignition off. Turn the ing on, and it momentarily goes out, then lights up constantly. Dont know if this is of any use
 
hi and welcome.

I am not 100% sure you need the ECU because its an older version of NATS - Rick knows a heck of a lot so he might be along to help.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a while?
 
HI mate and welcome you have NATS 1, if your immobiliser is not reading the keys then check the coil connection that is round the ignition barrel and its plug, you can replace the coil if it is damaged, no problem, if you get new keys they will have to be programmed, if all seems in order then I would try re addressing one of the keys to the immobiliser, think it is in the downloads, are you sure both keys worked before as often a spare key has not been programmed or has got damaged, the reason I ask is because if you try and start 3 times in a row with a bad key, you will be blocked out, and a computer link will be needed to unblock it, if some thing has got damaged then NATS 1 can be bypassed, if you have a scrap car local then you could remove the immobiliser from it as long as the original key/keys are available as well, the key and immobiliser are paired the coil round the barrel is just a coil, Rick
 
Square key, red chip.

Been using the aftermarket key for 3 years, no problems, now neither that nor the OE key work.

It has been attempted to be started more than 3 times with the imobilser light being on.

I can only find out about the plipper in the manual regarding recoding (And mine doesnt have one)

Nats 1 you say? IIRC, these can be bypassed?
 
OK I have somewhere the instructions for re syncing the key, have not got a clue where at the mo as last did it 3 years ago on the wifes car, yes I can tell how to bypass the immobiliser, but not on the open forum, PM me if you want to do it but after, anyone that can turn the ignition barrel will be able to start your car and on all of mine almost any key will do it as a result of wear, Rick
 
OK I have somewhere the instructions for re syncing the key, have not got a clue where at the mo as last did it 3 years ago on the wifes car, yes I can tell how to bypass the immobiliser, but not on the open forum, PM me if you want to do it but after, anyone that can turn the ignition barrel will be able to start your car and on all of mine almost any key will do it as a result of wear, Rick

I think I stumbled across how to do this by accident on a mates Maverick however it would only allow the car to be started and wouldn't rev
 
Just an update for anyone whose following this,

The beastie is still in pieces in the garage. Rick is a font of information- if this works, we need t to meet up so I can buy him a beer! (Or several)
 
Just an update for anyone whose following this,

The beastie is still in pieces in the garage. Rick is a font of information- if this works, we need t to meet up so I can buy him a beer! (Or several)

He's building a brewery at the moment, so I bet his beer needs will be well sorted :augie
 
So do I! Considered using a 'technical adjustment tool' on the immu/ecu. Apparently, this won't fix the issue. Make me feel loads better though!
 
Whiskey, beer, bottle, barrel, who's counting? If this works, and we get the beastie running, rick can have the missus!
 
unfortunately the Workshop manual I have gives the NATS2 system, I have a diagram of the pin connections on the NATS1 IMMO but not the plug details it is all about simply accurately identifying the pins on the plug as the bypass info I have simply give pin numbers, I can do it by looking and tracing on my own motor but have to gain access to the ECU etc to do this, and will not have time till the WE, if anyone can guide me to a NATS1 el section in the manual would be gratefull, Rick
 
Sure, free to a good home! I warn you tho, she has got a bit of a nasty whine going on, especially when I'm idling :augie :p
 
you should have the engine check light, if it is not on with ignition this may be your problem, pull the instrument panel out and check the bulb the ecu gets a feed through the bulb so could just be your problem, rayf will know more than me on this, Rick
 
Oddly enough, she's never had one, one if the things I remember not seeing when I got her, as my previous cars eml was ALWAYS on...
 

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