Headlamp connectors

[Darwin]

I bought some new connectors because the old ones are melting because of the upgraded bulbs.

would it be prudent to get the original wiring to run relays and run a direct fused link from the battery ?

 

[lacroupade]

I bought some new connectors because the old ones are melting because of the upgraded bulbs.

would it be prudent to get the original wiring to run relays and run a direct fused link from the battery ?

are they 100w out of interest?

 

[Darwin]

are they 100w out of interest?

they are in that area :augie

 

[lacroupade]

they are in that area :augie

LOL! you are right, they ought really to be run from a proper 30 amp relay and connected to the battery directly with thicker wiring, just like a set of spotties....but no idea how you stop the bulbholders from melting though, but at least its not the wiring loom.....yet...!

 

[rossco]

Had the same problem, went and bought a new set of connectors and have not had any problems since
The fitting deteriorate with old age,heat in engine bay and bulbs, eventually the plastic breakdown.

 

[Toolbox]

Think the biggest thing is to make sure you have good clean connections, solder the connectors to the wires were possible. A bad connection will always create heat.

 

[lacroupade]

Think the biggest thing is to make sure you have good clean connections, solder the connectors to the wires were possible. A bad connection will always create heat.

so if we check those things then uprated bulbs might not be such a problem?

 

[Toolbox]

I would be inclined to upgrade the wiring as well, after all they are near to double the wattage from standard bulbs. (also not legal for road use.)

 

[Darwin]

so if we check those things then uprated bulbs might not be such a problem?

4mm soldered bullet connectors , thats the route I will be taking

 

[makeitfit]

You've got me worried now:augie
I've had 100/115w in my last 2 mavs. so far no probs
Mind you I've done plenty of other damage:naughty

 

[lacroupade]

You've got me worried now:augie
I've had 100/115w in my last 2 mavs. so far no probs
Mind you I've done plenty of other damage:naughty

probably cos your lights were out...:augie

 

[Toolbox]

Be different if they were on the side and not on the front.:augie

 

[makeitfit]

LMFAO
More trouble with the alternator I think or my battery is about to die:augie
Must get to the scrap yard sat. need more POWER
Roof lights, spots, winch.
Going for a battery base off something so I can get no 2 in:thumbs

 

[Terranosaurus]

Think the biggest thing is to make sure you have good clean connections, solder the connectors to the wires were possible. A bad connection will always create heat.

I wouldn't agree with soldering. Aircraft looms don't solder, F1, and World rally cars don't solder etc. A good crimp is stronger ad just as conductive and will last longer. Heating the copper anneals it so it goes soft right next to the stiff bit where the solder has run between the strands, this will then wobble about and work harden, go brittle and then snap off. Seen it a number of times.

The headlighs are already running through a relay btw ad the thin wall cable of the std loom will e up to the job its just it will be running right on its max rather than having a cushion in hand.

That said I'm not a big fan of high power uprated bulbs, much better are the modern high efficency ones from the like of PIAA, Osram and Phillips. They draw the same current (THERE IS NO SUCH TERM AS AMPERAGE!!!!!!! it is pseudo science) but provide up to 100% more light than standard bulbs.

Most uprated bulbs ae cheap chinese etc imports, even a 0.5mm change in the location of the element will upset the beam pattern. My 2 penneth is buy original equipment bulbs, not OE spec (everyone claims that) - only Phillips, Osram and GE supply the manufacturers.

 

[Darwin]

I wouldn't agree with soldering. Aircraft looms don't solder, F1, and World rally cars don't solder etc. A good crimp is stronger ad just as conductive and will last longer. Heating the copper anneals it so it goes soft right next to the stiff bit where the solder has run between the strands, this will then wobble about and work harden, go brittle and then snap off. Seen it a number of times.

The headlighs are already running through a relay btw ad the thin wall cable of the std loom will e up to the job its just it will be running right on its max rather than having a cushion in hand.

That said I'm not a big fan of high power uprated bulbs, much better are the modern high efficency ones from the like of PIAA, Osram and Phillips. They draw the same current (THERE IS NO SUCH TERM AS AMPERAGE!!!!!!! it is pseudo science) but provide up to 100% more light than standard bulbs.

Most uprated bulbs ae cheap chinese etc imports, even a 0.5mm change in the location of the element will upset the beam pattern. My 2 penneth is buy original equipment bulbs, not OE spec (everyone claims that) - only Phillips, Osram and GE supply the manufacturers.

mine are Philips :naughty

 

[ssteve]

You've got me worried now:augie
I've had 100/115w in my last 2 mavs. so far no probs
Mind you I've done plenty of other damage:naughty

same here never had any probs

ssteve

 

[ssteve]

I wouldn't agree with soldering. Aircraft looms don't solder, F1, and World rally cars don't solder etc. A good crimp is stronger ad just as conductive and will last longer. Heating the copper anneals it so it goes soft right next to the stiff bit where the solder has run between the strands, this will then wobble about and work harden, go brittle and then snap off. Seen it a number of times.

The headlighs are already running through a relay btw ad the thin wall cable of the std loom will e up to the job its just it will be running right on its max rather than having a cushion in hand.

That said I'm not a big fan of high power uprated bulbs, much better are the modern high efficency ones from the like of PIAA, Osram and Phillips. They draw the same current (THERE IS NO SUCH TERM AS AMPERAGE!!!!!!! it is pseudo science) but provide up to 100% more light than standard bulbs.

Most uprated bulbs ae cheap chinese etc imports, even a 0.5mm change in the location of the element will upset the beam pattern. My 2 penneth is buy original equipment bulbs, not OE spec (everyone claims that) - only Phillips, Osram and GE supply the manufacturers.

headlamp aim shoukd be checked whenever replacing bulbs

ssteve

 

[Terranosaurus]

headlamp aim shoukd be checked whenever replacing bulbs

ssteve

Yes but cheap poorly made bulbs can affect beam pattern not just direction.

 

[ssteve]

I wouldn't agree with soldering. Aircraft looms don't solder, F1, and World rally cars don't solder etc. A good crimp is stronger ad just as conductive and will last longer. Heating the copper anneals it so it goes soft right next to the stiff bit where the solder has run between the strands, this will then wobble about and work harden, go brittle and then snap off. Seen it a number of times.

The headlighs are already running through a relay btw ad the thin wall cable of the std loom will e up to the job its just it will be running right on its max rather than having a cushion in hand.

That said I'm not a big fan of high power uprated bulbs, much better are the modern high efficency ones from the like of PIAA, Osram and Phillips. They draw the same current (THERE IS NO SUCH TERM AS AMPERAGE!!!!!!! it is pseudo science) but provide up to 100% more light than standard bulbs.

Most uprated bulbs ae cheap chinese etc imports, even a 0.5mm change in the location of the element will upset the beam pattern. My 2 penneth is buy original equipment bulbs, not OE spec (everyone claims that) - only Phillips, Osram and GE supply the manufacturers.

read this!!

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/amperage

ssteve

 

[Terranosaurus]

read this!!

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/amperage

ssteve

Its not a technical word - you won't find it in a physics paper or similar the word is "current" pure and simple - as soon as you hear the word amperage it tends to give a very good idea as to the users technical background or lack of it.

Ever heard anyone talk about alternating amperage or direct amperage?? Technical specs referring to maximum amperage etc

Theres plenty of improper words in the dictionary these days - theres even text speak in there now and on line dictionaries areparticularly bad - and mostly american.