hard to start from cold - quick check...

[groovylee]

Hi All,

so, the Terrano 2.7TDi has been a peach so far, with the odd niggle. clutch slave and masters changed, clutch is better, but i dont like the look of the flexi, so have a new one to fit.

it's new trick is to be a git to start from cold. I have searched the forum, and found loads of useful info, but before i start spending some decent cash, i just wanted to run my thought process by you guys to make sure im doing this all right.

firstly, the fuel filter is relatively new, so for now i'm discounting that. the battery is grand, and cranks over nice and strong, so thats out of the equation.

next stop was fuel hoses. the metal ones seem fine, no real corrosion that i can see, and no wet pipes. i have checked all of the rubber hoses, and some were a bit loose, so i've replaced the jubilees to make sure theyre sealed.

at the moment, it seems to be the classic symptoms - first start of the day, crank for ages (like a minute) and it fires, but blows out a lot of grey/white smoke that smells of unburnt diesel.

so my next port of call is the glow plugs. thought process is this:

check the voltage to the busbar to prove the relay is working. if this is ok, remove the busbar and check the resistance of each plug. if any are fubar'd, replace the lot (ECP have them on offer for £55 for four - does this sound ok?).

anything i might have missed?

many thanks,

Lee

 

[Fez_uk]

I wouldn't discount the fuel filter, has been known for cheaper ones to not seal and let air in.

But to be honest this sounds like a glowplug problem.

 

[groovylee]

Cheers for that. i may just grab a filter while i'm there, just in case :thumb2 cant hurt to change it at the same time.

 

[Banshee]

Hi All,

so, the Terrano 2.7TDi has been a peach so far, with the odd niggle. clutch slave and masters changed, clutch is better, but i dont like the look of the flexi, so have a new one to fit.

it's new trick is to be a git to start from cold. I have searched the forum, and found loads of useful info, but before i start spending some decent cash, i just wanted to run my thought process by you guys to make sure im doing this all right.

firstly, the fuel filter is relatively new, so for now i'm discounting that. the battery is grand, and cranks over nice and strong, so thats out of the equation.

next stop was fuel hoses. the metal ones seem fine, no real corrosion that i can see, and no wet pipes. i have checked all of the rubber hoses, and some were a bit loose, so i've replaced the jubilees to make sure theyre sealed.

at the moment, it seems to be the classic symptoms - first start of the day, crank for ages (like a minute) and it fires, but blows out a lot of grey/white smoke that smells of unburnt diesel.

so my next port of call is the glow plugs. thought process is this:

check the voltage to the busbar to prove the relay is working. if this is ok, remove the busbar and check the resistance of each plug. if any are fubar'd, replace the lot (ECP have them on offer for £55 for four - does this sound ok?).

anything i might have missed?

many thanks,

Lee

Easy!!!! Glow plugs all day long mate. I've tested plugs from the top before and although they were giving the right readings they still didn't glow red hot when removed so not always the best test I'm afraid.

Get the plugs out and do the jump lead test with them, if they glow red hot like this then they are good, if they don't bin them!!!

When you buy replacments it's very very important that you DONT buy ceramic tipped ones as these disintegrate and break off into the engine, got for Lucas LP032

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TO-CLEAR-...530590?hash=item5b1ca3f31e:g:z84AAOSwLzdWSvDj

 

[groovylee]

Cheers Banshee, you are a star.

that made my decision for me on whether to order the glow plugs first. I will get them ordered, replace them, and test the old ones when theyre out and report back.

great forum this :thumb2:clap

 

[groovylee]

quick one Banshee, those are listed as 2.7 TD rather than TDi. would that make a difference, as they seem much cheaper than the likes of Eurocarparts etc.

cheers,

Lee

 

[groovylee]

dont worry, i found the other thread with the LP079 part number in it :thumb2

ordered from ebay. less than half the price of ECP. thanks!!

Lee

 

[Banshee]

dont worry, i found the other thread with the LP079 part number in it :thumb2

ordered from ebay. less than half the price of ECP. thanks!!

Lee

Oops!!!!! Glad you checked my bad

The LP079 are TDi and LP032 are TD :thumb2

 

[Banshee]

This is what can happen if you buy ceramic!!!!

 

[groovylee]

well, i paid a little extra for 24 hour delivery, as i have the day off today. still half the price of the ECP ones!

they arrived this morning, and i have just finished changing them.

as a bit of a comparison test, i tested them in situ with my meter. open circuit on all of them. oh.

once i had them all out i tested them with the jump leads as per Banshees instructions....... not one of them glowed! all four were dead. no wonder it was hard to start :doh

so, the acid test will be tomorrow morning. hopefully it will fire straight up, and then all is well in the world. well, apart from the two split outer CV boots that i found whilst looking at the steering stops thats the next job then....

cheers for your help everyone! :clap:thumb2

Lee

 

[Blocky10]

well, i paid a little extra for 24 hour delivery, as i have the day off today. still half the price of the ECP ones!

they arrived this morning, and i have just finished changing them.

as a bit of a comparison test, i tested them in situ with my meter. open circuit on all of them. oh.

once i had them all out i tested them with the jump leads as per Banshees instructions....... not one of them glowed! all four were dead. no wonder it was hard to start :doh

so, the acid test will be tomorrow morning. hopefully it will fire straight up, and then all is well in the world. well, apart from the two split outer CV boots that i found whilst looking at the steering stops thats the next job then....

cheers for your help everyone! :clap:thumb2

Lee

Great news:thumb2 well done.
Banshee will be able to advise on cv boots too as he has one to replace as well:augie

 

[perelaar]

Split outer CV boots: don't bother trying to replace them with the CVs in place, just take them out (a few bolts on front dif, if I remember correctly). Clamp in vice, remove outer CV from inner CV by applying a hammer. Not a lot of force needed! See also this post here, as always Rick was right

 

[Banshee]

Split outer CV boots: don't bother trying to replace them with the CVs in place, just take them out (a few bolts on front dif, if I remember correctly). Clamp in vice, remove outer CV from inner CV by applying a hammer. Not a lot of force needed! See also this post here, as always Rick was right

Just for everyone that reads that thread that perelaar has linked, that same CV boot that I installed with my Bailcast cone is still on and going strong :augie

 

[groovylee]

just realised i hadn't updated this after the first morning start.....


well.


she fired up first turn of the key! i now have a very happy wife :thumb2

thanks again everyone, i really appreciate the help

 

[Blocky10]

just realised i hadn't updated this after the first morning start.....


well.


she fired up first turn of the key! i now have a very happy wife :thumb2

thanks again everyone, i really appreciate the help

Well done. :thumb2
Cv boot next?

 

[groovylee]

as Blocky10 says, CV boot(s) was next.

i used the bailcast sticky ones (awaits flaming lol). they are well stuck, and hopefully will last through the next MOT.

while there, i added my new steering stop caps, and replaced the clutch flexi.

so far so good. until i noticed the absolutely knackered ARB drop links

and then the knackered downpipe flexi.

parts ordered and job list added to lol

 

[Banshee]

as Blocky10 says, CV boot(s) was next.

i used the bailcast sticky ones (awaits flaming lol). they are well stuck, and hopefully will last through the next MOT.

while there, i added my new steering stop caps, and replaced the clutch flexi.

so far so good. until i noticed the absolutely knackered ARB drop links

and then the knackered downpipe flexi.

parts ordered and job list added to lol

Good lad!!!! It never seems to end, first time you always get under the truck you get from back from under it with 10 more jobs, I'm glad to see you're not put off though pal!!!!

As I said to someone else on here earlier, if you plan on keeping the truck for a while then go for a stainless front downpipe or if you can't be bothered with the bendy joints you're going to need to develop to remove the bolts up near the turbo then go for this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-SE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item233769e185

As for the droplinks, all I'll say is avoid buying them from the big "M" and I'm not on about McDonalds, have you considered a set of rose jointed ARB links and polybushes? I've had mine on for at least a year now and they have endured some serious off road action and they are still going strong :clap