Hard to change gears

[bbbmmm55]

Not been online in a while so it seems rude to jump on and ask for pointers but sometimes everything else takes over.

So the Mav has developed an issue with changing gear. Ive had a read about but wanted to ask for any pointers and wether im check long all the right bits.

Symptoms are as follows;

When stationary gear change is easy, smooth with no noise or resistence.
When driving its very hard to engage or remove from gear but bliping the throttle on change up and down will allow me to shift. Down wards seems most affected.
I can feel feed back through the clutch pedal when changing if that makes sense. A judder or knock.
When slowing down and dropping clutch but not attempting to down shift it feels like the clutch doesnt disengage its self.

This is only in the last couple of days. I have done the test in 5th gear, redline and lift clutch. Will stall after tge revs drop low.
I have repaird my clutch pedal bracket that had split.
Ive just got some hose to try bleeding again as im sure my process in the dark was rubbish. Have a new flexi n slave on its way but wont be here till wednesday.
Im have new oil for the gear box buuuuut the fill plug is a no go at the moment. So does anybody know if I can fill via the gearstick? If I remove the two circlips in this picture will it allow me to remove the stick?

 

[Banshee]

I've already PM'd you but for the benefit of everyone reading, I'll type my suggestions :thumb2

Given the fact that you've repaired the clutch pedal bracket and ruled that out I'd then be looking at the hydraulic side of the clutch. I remember giving my Maverick a good bleed and then adjusting the bite point at the bulkhead after removing the master cylinder.

What grade oil did you buy? It's generally accepted that 80w 90 GL4 is the correct grade oil but tons of people on here including myself swear by 75w 90 GL4 which seems to improve the smoothness of gear changes when the box is still cold.

STAY AWAY from GL5, the copper internals of the Terrano boxes don't like GL5 as it eats away at it!!!!!

 

[solarman216]

No remove the bolts and take the plate off, be careful of nylon/plastic bush on the stick bottom, Rick

 

[bbbmmm55]

Thanks for the pointers. Word of warning do not leave you phone on the floor after taking pictures of your clutch slave, then take your car out to test the repair. :lol Luckily ive managed to borrow a laptop to post till I get a new phone. So no new pics at the moment.

So far I have changed the clutch slave and flexi hose for new items. The slave cylinder was a Pagid brand item which the blled nipple appeared to be made from cheese. Rounded straight away and was machines very poorly so much that the opening at the end of the nipple was merely a slit rather than orifice. Found a nipple to replace. Also it seemed to weep so I have wrapped it in ptfe to give a better seal.

Bled and bled again. Got good pedal feel but still poor change of gears, feeling like clutch wont release on down shift.

Wrestled the plug out although it now no longer resembles any known shape. Changed the oil which did seem to make a difference! Slightly over filled from the 3.6 litres in the manual.

Things are still not right though. Down shifting still needs declutching and a blip on the throttle. Moving between gears can feel hard especially going down to second and up to third. When pulling off in first I have a noise that is replicated in reverse. Also when coming off the clutch I can feel a judder?

After reading about the judder is it possible I could have a contaminated clutch? I do have signs of weep between bell housing and engine. (Only what Ive read online)

Whats weird is that when in gear it pulls hard and no slip ( that I can tell). So my next action is to swap the master cylinder for one that was working. Are things now pointing towards clutch replacement? I pressume its on original and at 140k probably due.

 

[Banshee]

Thanks for the pointers. Word of warning do not leave you phone on the floor after taking pictures of your clutch slave, then take your car out to test the repair. :lol Luckily ive managed to borrow a laptop to post till I get a new phone. So no new pics at the moment.

So far I have changed the clutch slave and flexi hose for new items. The slave cylinder was a Pagid brand item which the blled nipple appeared to be made from cheese. Rounded straight away and was machines very poorly so much that the opening at the end of the nipple was merely a slit rather than orifice. Found a nipple to replace. Also it seemed to weep so I have wrapped it in ptfe to give a better seal.

Bled and bled again. Got good pedal feel but still poor change of gears, feeling like clutch wont release on down shift.

Wrestled the plug out although it now no longer resembles any known shape. Changed the oil which did seem to make a difference! Slightly over filled from the 3.6 litres in the manual.

Things are still not right though. Down shifting still needs declutching and a blip on the throttle. Moving between gears can feel hard especially going down to second and up to third. When pulling off in first I have a noise that is replicated in reverse. Also when coming off the clutch I can feel a judder?

After reading about the judder is it possible I could have a contaminated clutch? I do have signs of weep between bell housing and engine. (Only what Ive read online)

Whats weird is that when in gear it pulls hard and no slip ( that I can tell). So my next action is to swap the master cylinder for one that was working. Are things now pointing towards clutch replacement? I pressume its on original and at 140k probably due.

I need to see this, too many weirdnesses for my liking.

A pic of the weeping from the bellhousing would be interesting to see, but adjusting your bite point might be the way to go I reckon

 

[solarman216]

Yes sounds to me like you have oil on the clutch, test it by hand brake on select 4th gear heel and toe on the brake and throttle give it near to full revs and release the clutch, a good clutch will stall the engine very quickly, if it does not stall only let it run for no more than 5 or 6 seconds then smell the clutch if you get burnt oil then it is proven, Rick

 

[Banshee]

Yes sounds to me like you have oil on the clutch, test it by hand brake on select 4th gear heel and toe on the brake and throttle give it near to full revs and release the clutch, a good clutch will stall the engine very quickly, if it does not stall only let it run for no more than 5 or 6 seconds then smell the clutch if you get burnt oil then it is proven, Rick

That's your next move mate if you've not tried it already :thumb2

 

[bbbmmm55]

This week have still been cruising about slowing in the truck for work. Still driveable with care. I tried Ricks test in 4th and 5th both times the car is stalling within a second of popping clutch. So im hoping that rules out contaminated clutch.

I took the hyraulic side apart n reinstalled making sure to set pedal height, travel and free play. After this i have the pedal stopper wound fully out so max travel of the clutch pedal. This had made a big difference to driveability. Changinging up at 2k revs is smooth but declutching, blip on throttle or reducing travel speed before shifting down is still required.

Now the slave and flexi are new an ive tried a used master. Seeing as the used master could be faulty and for the sake of £30 im going to grab one at the weekend to try that as winding the pedal right out made such a difference.

Below is the pic that made me suspect a leak. Obviously ive got a leak somewhere hopefully just not onto the clutch plate. As long as its not effecting the clutch that can be a job for another thread/ day .

 

[bbbmmm55]

Swapped in a new master cylinder over the weekend. Had a look over old unit and under the dust cover was filled with fluid and crap. So i dont know if the piston can let by when worn preventing then slave from fully extending?

 

[bbbmmm55]

Even with a new master im still experiencing some issues. So far I have a new master, slave and flexi. Gear box oil been changed for correct grade. Fully adjusted height, travel n free play of the pedal.

Driving wise changing up gear is good. No noises now when pulling off in first or reverse. No feel of judder through the pedal. I cannot get the clutch to slip in 4th or 5th doing the full revs test.

The issue im now facing is that its extremely hard to engage gear shifting down. I. E approaching roundabout in 5th looking to drop into 2/3. Will shift to neutral easy but not into gear. The selector will sit there with no cruching but not physically engage untill i blip the throttle or i let my road speed slow right down.

Anybody have some idea on where/what my next action should be?