hanbrake adjusters

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pablo0874

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
275
i have replaced the rear shoes and am now having difficulty with the handbrake ,ive gone by the suggestions on here ,still no luck i just read on the internet that there is a plug at the rear inboard of the wheel which comes off and you can poke a screwdriver through to adjust the adjuster i didnt notice anything like that is this true does anyone know ?
:doh:doh:doh:doh:doh:doh
 
never noticed a hole when I did mine, the secret with the rear brakes is to remove the wear lip so that you can just get the drum on,, if the lip is still there then the drum will be tight getting it on but once in place the shoes are slack, the other point is to unadjust the HB cables, not just the one that goes to the lever, you do not know what was done before, when the drum goes on the levers on the shoes must be right back, Rick
 
As above but slacken off the bolt under the hand brake then once you have done above you can then tweek the handbrake from inside :thumbs
 
As above but slacken off the bolt under the hand brake then once you have done above you can then tweek the handbrake from inside :thumbs

To adjust the handbrake I have always removed the centre console, however following a suggestion by a member on this site, it is possible to get a 3/8" drive, 10 mm deep socket to squeeze past under the handbrake plastic shield and this saves 15 minutes work. :thumbs

You need to use a small screw driver to flip back the plastic shield afterwards, but this is very flexible.
 
never noticed a hole when I did mine, the secret with the rear brakes is to remove the wear lip so that you can just get the drum on,, if the lip is still there then the drum will be tight getting it on but once in place the shoes are slack, the other point is to unadjust the HB cables, not just the one that goes to the lever, you do not know what was done before, when the drum goes on the levers on the shoes must be right back, Rick

there doesnt apear to be a lip on the edge of the drum is seems as flush as the lining of the drum ,i know off the nut 10mm and i did remove the centre console to get to thast but ended up tightening it to the furthest it will go ,is there other nuts underneaath the car on the cables to slacken ?
i also now think i had not pulled the levers on the shoes right back as you are saying , but thats because the cable ends were just protruding through so obviously going by what yopu are saying i need much more slack on the rear cables to get that lever right back before i begin the other procedures ,dont get me wrong the brakes on foot work perfect just this little problem with the handbrake many thanks though i think ill have my third attempt tomorrow lets hope it doesnt rain again like today nothing worse than having a open air garage (driveway lol):doh
 
yes there is a compensating arm underneath and I guess some one has adjusted the two cables here, slack them off then check the adjusters in the drum, Rick
 
yes there is a compensating arm underneath and I guess some one has adjusted the two cables here, slack them off then check the adjusters in the drum, Rick

wheres the compensating arm is that the one in the drum on the shoes?
 
No it is just under the hand brake lever, short single cable from the lever, to the compensator, then two cables to the rear brakes, easy to get at, Rick
 
No it is just under the hand brake lever, short single cable from the lever, to the compensator, then two cables to the rear brakes, easy to get at, Rick

i tried loosening that 10 mm nut you mean but it seems to be at the tight end stuck just spins any suggestions
 
no sorry my memory plying up again, the individual cables are not adjustable, you should have no more than 60 mm from cable outer to the compensator bar (the length of the rubber gaiter) if this is correct and the drums are tight to get on I can only assume something is not quite right in the drums, Rick
 
i tried loosening that 10 mm nut you mean but it seems to be at the tight end stuck just spins any suggestions

It's probably run out of thread and started to go down the shaft. If safe to do so, try pulling up the handbrake while undoing the nut.
I assume the shaft isn't rotating, because if it is, you could run 2 x M6 nuts down, as a lock nut then hold this with a 10mm spanner while turning the other nut.
 
no sorry my memory plying up again, the individual cables are not adjustable, you should have no more than 60 mm from cable outer to the compensator bar (the length of the rubber gaiter) if this is correct and the drums are tight to get on I can only assume something is not quite right in the drums, Rick

I was just about to say that about the compensator, no adjustment there, I wished there was.
I was under mine today, applying more waxoyl.
I concentrated on the shock absorber mounts this time. :eek:
Although there was plenty of waxoyl on them from last time.

I think my suspension is getting lower, last time I went under it to waxoyl it, I could go from one side to the other, this time my gut gets stuck, so it must be the suspension I guess. :doh :doh

Also any one else found that when you put clothes away for the winter, and you try them on in the spring, they tend to shrink :doh :doh

Must be the cold weather shrinks them.. and everthing else....
:lol:lol:lol
 
well the good news took all your advice many thanks ,and one spot on handbrake (im guessing it will hold my next caravan on a very steep hill when i get around to getting another one .
it seems that the 10mm nut on the handbrake adjuster under the centre console was tightened down to the end (tightest end) and i could not losen it was just spinning so cut it off without damaging the thread slackened the cable right off ,.
went back to the start removed drums took all shoes springs off etc and put all back together but there was one important thing the most inmportant in this case ,
the handbrake attachment /lever on the shoes i made sure that was as far back as possible before refitting as the first time i done it i just about got the cable on it as the cable was just peering through the back off the drum this time i pulled all the slack through adjusted the shoes up with the adjuster and refitted centralised the shoes with the foot then took up the slack with the adjuster under the centre console and bob s your mothers brother ,and the bloody suns come out today after three days of rain wind and cold typical ,many thanks to the helpfulness of yourselves
 
just one more thing while i was refitiing the shoes i popped the cylinder out one side they are new fitted withh the shoes i just popped it back in cleaned it up and bleeded there seems to be no leaks since .is this the normal or are they no good once there popped out ,cos like i said there seems to be no leaking
 
just one more thing while i was refitiing the shoes i popped the cylinder out one side they are new fitted withh the shoes i just popped it back in cleaned it up and bleeded there seems to be no leaks since .is this the normal or are they no good once there popped out ,cos like i said there seems to be no leaking

My first thought is .... how do you think they got them in, in the first place....

If the seals and piston are clean and well lubricated and the piston isn't damaged by the fall, then I would have thought it would be ok.
 
My first thought is .... how do you think they got them in, in the first place....

If the seals and piston are clean and well lubricated and the piston isn't damaged by the fall, then I would have thought it would be ok.

i know what youre saying but the way they make these things these days i dont know maybe i thought there put in a certain way and once they pop then the seals broke i dont know since having a terrano (even though its the best car ive had up to now .wife disagrees im happy with it though lol)well since having a terrano nothing would surprise me ,but it didnt hit the floor i caught it and just pushed back in clean ,so you sayin it must be ok cos it hasnt leaked since ?
but this is the only car i have had were i have done more jobs on in 1 yr then i have on any other car ive had in many yrs ,still love it though :clap
 
i know what youre saying but the way they make these things these days i dont know maybe i thought there put in a certain way and once they pop then the seals broke i dont know since having a terrano (even though its the best car ive had up to now .wife disagrees im happy with it though lol)well since having a terrano nothing would surprise me ,but it didnt hit the floor i caught it and just pushed back in clean ,so you sayin it must be ok cos it hasnt leaked since ?
but this is the only car i have had were i have done more jobs on in 1 yr then i have on any other car ive had in many yrs ,still love it though :clap

Other guys will be along later to advise, but if the cylinder had been on old one with "rust and crud" on the outer edge, that the seal had gone past on its way out then back in again, then personally I wouldn't use it, as it may have scratched the seals leading to later seeping.
But since yours are new, makes abig difference... In my opinion.

I no longer replace seals in brake cylinders, I did it once on a mini, then a week later it was leaking again.
I have replaced both rear cylinders on my mav about 2 years ago. The originals gave me 14 years great service.

Best car I have ever had 16 years of ownership from new and still going strong.
 
Other guys will be along later to advise, but if the cylinder had been on old one with "rust and crud" on the outer edge, that the seal had gone past on its way out then back in again, then personally I wouldn't use it, as it may have scratched the seals leading to later seeping.
But since yours are new, makes abig difference... In my opinion.

I no longer replace seals in brake cylinders, I did it once on a mini, then a week later it was leaking again.
I have replaced both rear cylinders on my mav about 2 years ago. The originals gave me 14 years great service.

Best car I have ever had 16 years of ownership from new and still going strong.

is that the car iin the picture youre talking about
 

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