fuel tank and lines

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96terrano

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Messages
8,022
2 questions,

How hard is it to remove the fuel tank from a lwb terrano?

Should I replace the old fuel line whilst the tank is out?
 
Very easy but do you actually need to? Just look under truck and undo the bolts,but be warned they well be rust welded and shear off :eek:
In the boot there's that hatch thing, open that for the pipes and wires.
Rear o/s wheel arch, remove gay plastic arch liner and undo filler neck etc.
Fuel pipes are dead easy, just follow and undo, re new with new pipe front to back, chances are it'll be rusty and could be letting air in.
May even be part of your smoke probs, but I'm betting injectors :rolleyes:
 
Very easy but do you actually need to? Just look under truck and undo the bolts,but be warned they well be rust welded and shear off :eek:
In the boot there's that hatch thing, open that for the pipes and wires.
Rear o/s wheel arch, remove gay plastic arch liner and undo filler neck etc.
Fuel pipes are dead easy, just follow and undo, re new with new pipe front to back, chances are it'll be rusty and could be letting air in.
May even be part of your smoke probs, but I'm betting injectors :rolleyes:

Thank you! I feel confident....I think:lol sounds simple enough if they snap, I'll have to make new mounts or what ever. Was it 6mm pipe I use? Also what's the best to go for, metal or rubber? ;)
 
Dont use rubber as it'll rot if you put veggie in it.
Get some pipe from OILYBITS or similar. It's a bit more expensive but wont rot or let air in. Flow is 8mm int and return is 6mm int.
Fuel tank has a guard over it, undo that first then go for the tank.
Mind your eyes :cool:
 
Dont use rubber as it'll rot if you put veggie in it.
Get some pipe from OILYBITS or similar. It's a bit more expensive but wont rot or let air in. Flow is 8mm int and return is 6mm int.
Fuel tank has a guard over it, undo that first then go for the tank.
Mind your eyes :cool:

Cheers, I don't mind spending a bit of money on my truck as its half decent:lol yes I've got eye protection, cba with Crap falling :doh
 
Hi Ryan,
I replaced mine recently, Makeitfit has said it all, but I will add the following:-

Use WD 40 on the 6 bolts that hold it, do this days before you remove it.

4 of them hold on the bash plate as well as the tank, leaving the middle two for tank only.

Empty the tank first, it is heavy enough on it's own.:eek:

As you remove the filler pipes from the filler, put plastic bags over the hoses to prevent dirt getting in as you lower the tank.
You will probably need two new jubilee clips too.

If you feel the need to open up the top plate, you may well shear off some of the m5 bolts, these are fitted into captive threaded holes that do not enter the actual tank, so could be rusted up.:doh

To put it back I raised the vehicle, went underneath with the tank on my belly, used my knee to lift it, and getting those first 2 bolts in is a pain. :nenau

Don't tighten these yet, leave well loose until you have the bash plate on too.

CAUTION.
As your tank is old, and may be the original, it may have started to open up the front seam, rust gets in between the top and bottom sheet, but the weld that seals the tank, is close to the tank, the open seam in front lets the water in and rusts badly, in fact instead of being a total of 3 mm thick, it will have expanded to well over 6 mm with flakey rust. :doh

Now the problem is...
as soon as you undo those front bolts you are releasing stored energy from the rusting metal inside, and this might burst the seam.:doh

I say this from experience, my leak was quite small at first, so I slackened the bolts, because I could, ready for when I get the replacement, and... when I checked it the next day, the leak was 10 times worse. :doh:doh


Remember... if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :thumb2
You could end up replacing the tank, and to be fair, good ones are difficult to find. I looked at 5 or 6 and rejected those as they were nearly as bad as my old one.:nenau


Think first as to why you want to remove the tank... is it worth it?:nenau


Best regards,

Rustic
 
If I was you I'd rig a temp fuel tank like a bottle in the engine bay to make sure it's not corroded fuel pipes giving you white smoke.
 
Hi Ryan,
I replaced mine recently, Makeitfit has said it all, but I will add the following:-

Use WD 40 on the 6 bolts that hold it, do this days before you remove it.

4 of them hold on the bash plate as well as the tank, leaving the middle two for tank only.

Empty the tank first, it is heavy enough on it's own.:eek:

As you remove the filler pipes from the filler, put plastic bags over the hoses to prevent dirt getting in as you lower the tank.
You will probably need two new jubilee clips too.

If you feel the need to open up the top plate, you may well shear off some of the m5 bolts, these are fitted into captive threaded holes that do not enter the actual tank, so could be rusted up.:doh

To put it back I raised the vehicle, went underneath with the tank on my belly, used my knee to lift it, and getting those first 2 bolts in is a pain. :nenau

Don't tighten these yet, leave well loose until you have the bash plate on too.

CAUTION.
As your tank is old, and may be the original, it may have started to open up the front seam, rust gets in between the top and bottom sheet, but the weld that seals the tank, is close to the tank, the open seam in front lets the water in and rusts badly, in fact instead of being a total of 3 mm thick, it will have expanded to well over 6 mm with flakey rust. :doh

Now the problem is...
as soon as you undo those front bolts you are releasing stored energy from the rusting metal inside, and this might burst the seam.:doh

I say this from experience, my leak was quite small at first, so I slackened the bolts, because I could, ready for when I get the replacement, and... when I checked it the next day, the leak was 10 times worse. :doh:doh


Remember... if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :thumb2
You could end up replacing the tank, and to be fair, good ones are difficult to find. I looked at 5 or 6 and rejected those as they were nearly as bad as my old one.:nenau


Think first as to why you want to remove the tank... is it worth it?:nenau


Best regards,

Rustic
Cheers:thumb2 it is worth it as I'm wanting to clean the boot floor and rust protect it:)
 
if I was you and it's going to be off the road for a while I'd be taking the body off the chassis and do a proper job.
 
if I was you and it's going to be off the road for a while I'd be taking the body off the chassis and do a proper job.

Yes, that's somthing I'd like to do but haven't got the space to do it:doh
 
Weather has stopped raining and the ground is dry, going to try and drop the tank
 
How do I drain the tank? As theirs a drain plug in the bottom but I don't want to remove is incase is rusted in place. Not dropping the tank today as its only me and I want someone to support it whilst I undo the bolts :eek:. But I'm doing everything else:thumbs
 
with the drain plug... :lol

Excuses! do it today, easy enough with a jack under it to help support it.
 

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