Front Flexi Exhaust repair

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Dec 15, 2011
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It was blowing now it has separated on the weld in front of the flexi. I bandaged it yesterday and, surprisingly was working till I got on the 62. Any one tried one of these as a temporary fix?
holts-flexiwrap-straight-pipe-repair-hohl2-328-p[ekm]300x300[ekm].jpg
 
i have used one in the past, worked well on a straight pipe, dont think it would be any good on a flexi-pipe as it would make it rigid and probally cause it to split in a different part of the flex, although you might get away with it as it is on the end, just means that the flexi will now be shorter
 
I got a new downpipe supplied and fitted last week for £65

where? I think I would pay someone to do it, looks a buggeer of a job.


Thanks for the offer cncfabs :thumbs For now I just need a quick fix. Sounds hurrendous. The flexi mesh is ok it's the weld just in front that has cracked and seperated. I'll get meself upto halfrauds and part with £6.79 :eek: Might put a couple more Jubilee clips round it.
 
I got a new downpipe supplied and fitted last week for £65

Where?
That was a good price.:thumbs

I had mine done a few years back, and they had to undo the torsion bar cross member to get it in.

Surely you don't really need to do this on a 2.7 td?:doh

I do the centre and rear, but the front worried me in case the studs on the manifold sheared.:bow

Rustic
 
I'll get meself upto halfrauds and part with £6.79 :eek: Might put a couple more Jubilee clips round it.

Temporary repair hmm I wouldn't go too far with it like that, the vibration on a diesel will wreck it very quickly.

I have never had any great joy with these things in the past.
I have tried the bandage, dried up and fell off, the end of silencer one, separated. Never tried one of those though... might be a get you home solution.

You might be better with a tub of Gun Gum and a Heineken can, cut up and U clamps might work in addition to the jubilee clips.

best regards,

Rustic
 
Where?
That was a good price.:thumbs

I had mine done a few years back, and they had to undo the torsion bar cross member to get it in.

Surely you don't really need to do this on a 2.7 td?:doh

I do the centre and rear, but the front worried me in case the studs on the manifold sheared.:bow

Rustic

No need to undo any crossmembers to change front pipe in fact the torsion bar crossmember is no where near the front pipe.Only thing thats in the way is front prop but will come out without removing anything but is very tight
 
No need to undo any crossmembers to change front pipe in fact the torsion bar crossmember is no where near the front pipe.Only thing thats in the way is front prop but will come out without removing anything but is very tight

Thanks for that info, I know you have removed quite a few, how high does the vehicle have to be off the ground to get it in?

best regards, Rustic
 
Thanks for that info, I know you have removed quite a few, how high does the vehicle have to be off the ground to get it in?

best regards, Rustic

Pretty sure you dont have to jack it up at all
 
Thanks, sounds easy then IF the front studs don't shear off :nenau

Tell me about it mine did thats when it gets to be a pain of a job ended up removing most of turbo gubins to get manifold elbow out to retap it not a lot of room between manifold and bulkhead
 
Tell me about it mine did thats when it gets to be a pain of a job ended up removing most of turbo gubins to get manifold elbow out to retap it not a lot of room between manifold and bulkhead

I think garages have a stud welder, and can weld in a stud in situe, or am I dreaming?:augie
 
I think garages have a stud welder, and can weld in a stud in situe, or am I dreaming?:augie

Possibly
Did the job myself as i am a tight yorkshireman and we have a selection of studs that we use on steam engines at work
 
I was going to do it myself but then read about removing props etc, I went to Oldham tyres and exhausts just to enquire about the price, the guy told me £65 and then mentioned what a bugger of a job it was.
It took around an hour to fit and theres a nice little cafe just down the road.
 
I was going to do it myself but then read about removing props etc, I went to Oldham tyres and exhausts just to enquire about the price, the guy told me £65 and then mentioned what a bugger of a job it was.
It took around an hour to fit and theres a nice little cafe just down the road.

thanks :thumb2 good to know. I'm the same as Rustic, I dont want to be shearing studs... what do you do then :eek: I suppose a good Plusgassing wouldn't go a miss.
 
Right, well it's on, in a fashion.. I bought the wrong Flexiwrap, did my usual trick of looking at the SIZE and More Metal. :augie

holts-flexiwrap-silencer-repair-hi.jpg


Should have got this

holts-flexiwrap-straight-pipe-repair-hi.jpg

Anyway the halfords reviews are correct, The white bandagey thingy that comes in the middle just falls in bits, I think this is to help make a seal but if you can imagine the sharp edges that are inevitably part of broken pipes it's not up to it. The Steel wrap is decent enough metal but the Jubilee type tightner thing is junk, It tightens by pulling the wrap together to make a smaller tube to go round the exhaust, trouble is just when you start getting tight it strips :doh
So to try and get it on tight I've put a 45-60mm Jubilee clip either side. :clap
Only had a screwdriver to get them tight. When it dries up I'll put a 7mm socket on. It's still blowing slightly, but I think it'll be better when I can get it tighter.
Might have been better anyway if I'd have bought the right one in the first place.

'makeitfit2' :naughty
 

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