Front discs

[quixote]

Done to death probably, so not looking for a 'how-to' as I've found one. :thumb2

This is more a general 'how much of a ballache is it?' question :augie

 

[firebobby]

There a link on the club downloads that shows you all you need to know, it helped me when I did my discs last year

 

[quixote]

Thanks mate, I found it already :thumb2

So.............ballache or relatively straightforward? :nenau

 

[rustic]

Thanks mate, I found it already :thumb2

So.............ballache or relatively straightforward? :nenau

Just time consuming, also you need to adjust the front wheel bearings during the final assembly.

Allow 2-3 hours per side.

No special tools required except a torque wrench, and a 1/2" drive 6mm AF Allen key, for torquing up the 6 allen headed bolts on the auto hubs.

If these are over tightened, they can shear.

:thumb2

 

[judd750]

Just time consuming, also you need to adjust the front wheel bearings during the final assembly.

Allow 2-3 hours per side.

No special tools required except a torque wrench, and a 1/2" drive 6mm AF Allen key, for torquing up the 6 allen headed bolts on the auto hubs.

If these are over tightened, they can shear.

:thumb2

as above, just done mine,
not too bad to do, weather permitting (no garage for me)
got them from milners with discount :clap

 

[judd750]

cleaned and painted calipers too

 

[puddle hoppers inc.]

what year is your 3ltr? it is much easier with fixed hubs as they are literally held on by a circlip. do a search as i put some pics up when i changed my cv boots.

 

[puddle hoppers inc.]

tie up caliper out the way so as not to stretch flexi pipe

pull off cover

pull off circlip

 

[puddle hoppers inc.]

ub should slide off, watch out its heavy! undo the bolts holding hub to disk and bobs your uncle

 

[Sweety]

puddle hoppers inc. how do you adjust the hub bearings on the later models as I can't see how on the pic's used to the set up on the earlier ones with FWH's

 

[puddle hoppers inc.]

undo the six nuts and pull cover off, it should be behind there, but if you do not have any need to adjust and are just taking off hub then the circlip is all thats holding it on. good idea to repack rear of hub before putting it back on, good push in to get circlip back on!

 

[quixote]

ub should slide off, watch out its heavy! undo the bolts holding hub to disk and bobs your uncle

That's brilliant, thank you!

Mine's a '94 & it looks like my hubs are identical to yours, so the job should be a piece of cake :clap Of course, that's apart from also having to change the CV joint that I found was goosed when I had a look last night, lol.

So that circlip is all that holds the hub in place? Are there replacement clips available, do you know?

Thanks for your input, everyone :thumb2

 

[quixote]

Doh! Just noticed I got the year wrong...........it's an '04, not '94

 

[quixote]

Sorry, just another quick one! I take it the entire hub needs to come off for this job? So track rod, upper & lower ball joints need to be split, too? :nenau

 

[puddle hoppers inc.]

Yes, big hammertime! I used the stretcht boots that use a cone so need to take off cv joint. First side seemed to take an age but the other side took half!

 

[puddle hoppers inc.]

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18714&highlight=boot

towards the end are some more pics etc the small ball joint bolts will shear, have a look.

 

[quixote]

Brilliant! Thanks PH! Really appreciate the help...........

Discs & pads are here, so the job's on for tomorrow. I have a CV boot repair kit that's split for gluing, so I might try that to save pulling the hub off for the time being. Booked in for test on Tuesday, so if it doesn't work I'll just get them to replace it. To be honest it needs a new CV joint as it tinkles in 4WD.......test first, I reckon :nenau

I'll see what kind of mood I'm in (and the motor!!!) tomorrow

 

[puddle hoppers inc.]

hated doing mine! good luck! :thumb2

 

[rustic]

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18714&highlight=boot

towards the end are some more pics etc the small ball joint bolts will shear, have a look.

I changed an upper ball joint last year, and the four bolts came out without any problem at all. My mav 18 years at the time.

So, personally I put this down to having waxoyled all my nuts and bolts from Day 1:nenau
So far everything comes off clean, brake pipes too, from rear cylinders etc

However, there have been a series of broken bolts discussed on this forum and I wonder if this is more common on the later models, or the earlier ones!

I know the Ford garage sheared one of my Auto Hub, allen headed bolts, and this has been the only one sheared.

So are Japanese bolts not as good a quality that the should be, or is it the environment that we use these vehicles, or is it that we are running these vehicles for a longer time than other vehicles, and these problems are more time related.?

Rustic

 

[quixote]

I think a lot depends on the grade of steel used. Different steels have different yield strengths, & the lower the yield of the steel the cheaper it is, so if cheap bar stock is used the cheaper the fastener. As long as any calcs performed by the designers verify that the fastener's going to be capable of withstanding any tensile loads on it, they'll use the steel.............cheaper the better as far as they're concerned, but it leads to a complete ball-ache for the likes of us who actually need to get the damn things on & off with no drama :nenau