free wheeling hubs can they be removed and still have 4wd?

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torxhead

Active member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
26
just wondering if anyone can advise. i think i have a problem with my free wheeling hubs. i am having severe tyre wear in the front right hand side on the inside. and it pulls hard over to the left, i have to fight with the steering wheel to keep it in a straight line.
i cannot affor manual hubs at £62 each. as i have to buy new tyres now.
what i wondered was can i remove the free wheeling hubs and the 4wd still work? as it is too wet to service them and nissan cannot get me the springs delivered due to the bad weather.
thanks in advance
 
short awnser no

and i doubt the hubs are causing the wear most likley tracking or a joint
 
hi

the tracking has been done, and it only pulls bad to the left when in 4wd which makes me think its something to do with the hubs
thanks for the quick reply though, i know i cant take them off altogether now
 
the tracking has been done, and it only pulls bad to the left when in 4wd which makes me think its something to do with the hubs
thanks for the quick reply though, i know i cant take them off altogether now

hubs wont cause that they only lock the shaft to the wheels
 
hubs

im just wondering if one of them isnt working right which is causing it, cos i have got stuck twice.
it pulls to the left when i put my foot down in 4wd but when i lift off the throttle it seems ok. all my wheels are spinning when i got stuck cos i tried it.
when in 2wd it doesnt run in a straight line, it still pulls to the left but not as much. if you think its the bushes, where can i get more info about them because i cant find much info except ebay. also which side would it be if it is pulling to the left and wearing the inner front right tyre
 
if they werent working right they wouldnt lock and give you 4wd

tbh i have no idea about that sort of thing as any pulling left or right it goes into garage to be checked

milner's might be a good option
 
swap the front and rear tyres over to see if it makes a difference.if the tyre has worn uneven it will still pull to the left even though the tracking has been done.had a simular issue with my old terrano.
pain in the arse to set the tracking properly as there is alot of play in the steering linkage and most tyre places cant do it.
mine does it now and then when in 4wd when i let off the power but the surface you are driving on has to be slippy to allow the front wheels to turn properly as there is no diff on the front axle.
 
ok thanks for the info

ok thanks for the info. something else to think on.
is the tracking and front tyre wear a commmon issue on terranos?
 
terranos traditionally pull to left if they are going to.

if swapping tyres round, keep them on same side so
swap nsf to nsr and vice versa, osf to osr, NOT
diagonally, dunno why but is in handbook as i recall.
 
hi

yes your right it is in the handbook also for my volvo.
i think they say keep them on the same side because alot of tyres are directional these days.
i cant see it being a problem if there not directional tyres though. but most are. but manufacturers assume everyone hasnt got a brain and hasnt got the ability to check if there directional or not, so they state the same side to keep them legally right so they dont get sued if they say swap them on the same axle and some idiot does that with directional tyres:doh
 
you can keep your hubs and have 4 wheel drive,but, you have to weld the hub together, it does work, i tried to service mine and found the welded, you can still change the at a later date, i did, :thumb2
 
hi

thanks for the replies,
i was meaning my hubs are permanently locked on or at least one of them is, making one wheel not free wheeling and the other free whelling for it to pull to one side
 
thanks for the replies,
i was meaning my hubs are permanently locked on or at least one of them is, making one wheel not free wheeling and the other free whelling for it to pull to one side

i cant see a locked hub causing it

easy way to check even in the snow arm arround the tyre and try to turn drive shaft each side if it turns then its fine
 
You can disable the locking hubs. Remove the hub and remove the brake ring and spring, then refit the hub. I did it to mine when it was over heating due to the brake rings sticking together. There will be a link posted somewhere to the manual, find the hub on there and you'll see the brake rings.

Jim
 
i cant see a locked hub causing it

easy way to check even in the snow arm arround the tyre and try to turn drive shaft each side if it turns then its fine

one broke front auto = no front drive.

torque from front diff would be channeled to wheel least
resistance ie the broken one, bit like if took a wheel of
when both were locked, other on ground wouldnt move
afterall no lsd in front to try to regulate torque/traction.

but reckon could simplify hubs into bodged fixed hubs
after all last of terranos came that way no auto or
manual option. all front end spins all time on these late
models as far as 4wd dog clutch in transfer box.

can simulate this on my troll as the autos have a manual
locked position as well. guess makes more bullet proof
and can lube front diff in process in 2wd.
 
one broke front auto = no front drive.

torque from front diff would be channeled to wheel least
resistance ie the broken one, bit like if took a wheel of
when both were locked, other on ground wouldnt move
afterall no lsd in front to try to regulate torque/traction.

but reckon could simplify hubs into bodged fixed hubs
after all last of terranos came that way no auto or
manual option. all front end spins all time on these late
models as far as 4wd dog clutch in transfer box.

can simulate this on my troll as the autos have a manual
locked position as well. guess makes more bullet proof
and can lube front diff in process in 2wd.
Richard he has 4wd fine but thinks a hubs is locked constantly causing wear on tyre would it do that or not
 
still no cos most use/wear is in 2wd, so whether hubs free or locked or fixed
or mixed no drive TO them.

maybe another thread, but t2s (r20s) always prone to ns pull and wear.

used to have new threads on it every other week when i joined club.

check tracking and alignment, bear in mind not every tyre shop can do it,
crossed city to find one that could do trolls, though slightly different up front
of course. rotate tyres before knackered.
 
reread, whether hub locked or free doesnt effect its ability to be free rolling,
only difference is if half shaft spins with it to diff.

so till no to wear from hub state, sticking with r20s are prone get alignment
checked, i did on my t2 just when put 400 quid of grabbers on and was fine
after that. loose on a camber not not pulling out of your hands ( the wheel)
but hey what prat drives no handed? and pas hopefully assists!
 
replies

thanks for all the replies i have been reading through, interesting knowledge.
i have stripped down my free whelling hub and found nothing broken.
what i wonder is why i have so much wear on the inner front right tyre.
when i had it aligned a couple of weeks ago, they couldnt get the laser machine to point axactly up and down vertical, because due to the wear on the tyre it is not sitting slightly diagonally hence the wear on the inside of the tyre.
i have tried checking for "loose" bushes with play, but unsure what is acceptable.
i am hoping to cure the problem before getting new tyres, so the same thing doesnt happen again.
my plan for now is to swap front to back tyres around and get the pressures exact.
im glad i found this site, i may of bought hubs unnecessarily, as i dont think they are the problem anymore.
i will post another thread to try and find out what causes or cures the pulling to the left issue i have, cos it really is quite a heavy pull to the left mine has and not just a slight,.
thanks all for your views.:thumb2
 
Bound to be bushes mate, I know , I change mine far too often:doh
Your garage is inept:augie Regardless of existing tyre wear, the geometry can still be set up properly. IF your bushes and balls are ok that is.
Lift the front a little bit then give the steering some waggle. Steering idler is first suspect. Then ball joints(hard to tell when under static load), then other bushes like compression rod ones.
Camber needs to be sorted with washer adjustment behind the top arm, so most tracking garages wont be arsed doing that:doh
 

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