First Issue for the Fraternity!

[cateringcol]

Hi Fellow onwers: In order to tow a medium sized catering van, I recently spur-of-the-moment bought a low mileage 95 (N) Ford Maverick which I could see was in wonderful body and interior order for its age all thing considered.

It drives well and I've been enjoying it (despite no Aircon!).

However, the brake pedal travel I thought was a wee bit excessive.

Thinking it could just be lack of rear brake adjustment/all pads and shoes needing looking at, I've put it in to a local garage (I'm fine on a nuts and bolts Triumph Herald, but time and nervousness at the size of this puts me off doing stuff on my own!).

Also, I plead forgiveness for not knowing it was a Jap component vehicle badged up as Ford . . . dur . . . .

Garage (not Ford) duly stripped rear brakes apart, meat on the shoes was OK still; but they noted leaking wheel cylinders - so replaced them (even though appearing to have trouble matching brake line joints to whosesoever cylinders they bought (Girling??).

So it was bled put together and the pedal travel apparently was pretty much the same.

Now, I don't know - and have no reference point - as to if the pedal on the maverick always did travel quite a way before operating (seemed to stop all right even before the cylinders were changed).

Now the garage is proposing the cuplrit could be the Master cylinder, with no evidence for saying this. Ford don't stock it anymore and even if they did it's £350 ish plus fitting.

There's no repair kit, apparently (thank you, Triumph - everything available, cheap, easy to replace!), as with others.

So I'm left wondering . . .

- Is the travel normal?
- parts MUSt be available - I've never known any marque to allow parts to go out of manufacture; it'll presumably be a question of finding a pattern part that is IF
- it's proved the master cylinder is at fault . . .

You can see my conundrum??!!

All ideas very welcome!

Thanks from a now financially challenged newbie.

 

[jims-terrano]

Even if it is the master cylinder which I have to say sounds a bit dodgy Milners sell them for £177. We have several members on here that are breaking these trucks so chances are you could get a good one easy enough.

Theres plenty experience on here so Im sure there will be some more advice soon.

Not trying to push you but club membership is great, a tenner well spent. Besides the advice and banter there are downloads that give advice on fixes and also you can register for discount at milners.

 

[cateringcol]

Thanks for the swift reply.

Yes, I've been speaking to Ford - they say the master cylinders either work or don't.

There's some kind of hydraulic through-flow test they can do for £50 if a roadtest thinks it warrants it!

Everyone's after the buck . . .

However, as we're keeping the vehicle for the foreseeable future, I think £10 sounds like a bargain for tapping into experience, knowledge and help.

Thanks again. Will keep folk posted in case they're in a similar situation!

 

[firebobby]

Welcome, and well done for joining, you won't regret it and will soon get get your monies worth.

Where about's are you in the south east, there are quite a few members in the area who may be able to assist you.

Have you checked the brake pedal mounts, these can come loose and can also snap on the welds...worth a look.

 

[jims-terrano]

What about that load balancer or what ever they call it around the rear axle area isnt it. Im sure Solarman will be along today at some point.

Check out the downloads section within quick links. Not sure if theres much to do with the brakes on there but youll get some idea of what there is on there.

 

[briggie]

solarman 216 ( rick ) , is down your neck of the woods .....a genious with t2's :thumb2

 

[Banshee]

Thanks for the swift reply.

Yes, I've been speaking to Ford - they say the master cylinders either work or don't.

There's some kind of hydraulic through-flow test they can do for £50 if a roadtest thinks it warrants it!

Everyone's after the buck . . .

However, as we're keeping the vehicle for the foreseeable future, I think £10 sounds like a bargain for tapping into experience, knowledge and help.

Thanks again. Will keep folk posted in case they're in a similar situation!

As a welcome present I'm off to the scrap yard later to fetch some bits from an "N" Reg LWB your shape, I'll check the master cylinder and if it appears OK I'll rip it off and as long as I can sneak it into my toolbox you can have it for the price of postage :sly :thumb2

Anything else you need?

 

[firebobby]

As a welcome present I'm off to the scrap yard later to fetch some bits from an "N" Reg LWB your shape, I'll check the master cylinder and if it appears OK I'll rip it off and as long as I can sneak it into my toolbox you can have it for the price of postage :sly :thumb2

Anything else you need?

Ahhh, and who said he was a nasty moderator :lol:lol

That's what this club is about, helping to keep these trucks on the road, good on you Banshee....isn't the master cylinder a bit to big for your average tool box :augie

 

[rustic]

...a bit to big for your average tool box :augie

The size of Banshees tool box...:nenau

Let's not go there lol...:doh

 

[terranobreakershropshire]

I have master cylinders for £28 inc post but I don't think this is your problem.

look at front calipers to see if pistons are returning ok and all working properly. also the rear load sensing valve on the rear axle. I have calipers and/or carriers if you need any.

 

[rustic]

Could the sliders on the front calipers, if seized cause a problem :nenau

Worth checking anyway, as they can seize.:nenau
This is one if those jobs, with a bit of tlc and grease, can be sorted cheaply.:thumb2

There could also be air in the system, worth changing brake fluid every 3 years anyway, and bleed them at the same time.

 

[Banshee]

As promised tested and working on the scrapper it came off,yours for the price of postage, let me know if you want it otherwise it'll go on eBay

 

[solarman216]

Hi and welcome, with the engine off, pump the pedal a few times to get rid of the vac, what does the pedal feel like now? how much free play do you have ? (this means very light pressure till contact with the master cyl plunger is felt, this should only be a few mm) then start the engine, pump the pedal quickly a few times, does it improve? and keep your foot on it does it sink? await your reply, please keep it factual to exactly what I have said, Rick

 

[solarman216]

As promised tested and working on the scrapper it came off,yours for the price of postage, let me know if you want it otherwise it'll go on eBay

If no one else wants it I will have it and pay you for it, I have two duff ones and only one left on my scrapper, Rick

 

[frosty]

When I did the brake pipes I had a right job getting air out of the system due to the brake compensator, could it be something to do with that ?

 

[Banshee]

If no one else wants it I will have it and pay you for it, I have two duff ones and only one left on my scrapper, Rick

No worries Rick :thumb2

 

[cateringcol]

Lordy lordy. Thanks Everyone for all your help and suggestions, including the offer of parts. I don't have the time or inclination to work on the machine myself, but I suppose I have to be confident that a commercial garage had bled the system properly - I know myself it's easy to leave air in somewhere. I asked them specifically because I did not want them just bleeding the rear (if this is possible) by having shut the front off with those brake hose pilers. They assured me that the whole system was bled and at least twice, as they themselves were puzzled. They also commented that if it had been a land Rover of the same age they'd expect similar (feel/action) on the pedal. Also, that on the rolling road, the resistance is good enough to pass an MOT. What I can't get to grips with is that no-one has said (yet) - especially the chap who's owned one from new for 19 years, if the brake pedal was firm and sharp when bought. If it wasn't, maybe there's nothing wrong with it and it's my comparison knowing ho sharp modern car brakes are (I usually go through the windscreen when I drive a new car!). Ford are playing canny and not giving any info away free!!

 

[rustic]

When the engine is running, the brake pedal has a little bit of spring in it, when you turn the engine off, and pump the brake several times to kill the vacuum, the brake pedal becomes fairly firm, and doesn't go down far.

If you start the engine with you foot on the brake, the brake pedal goes down quite a bit.

This is normal, and shows the servo is working.

As far as I can remember, it has been like this for all of it's life from new... :augie:augie

It has always passed MOTs with no advisories on the brakes.:thumb2
The only parts on the brake system I have changed are the two rear brake cylinders, one started a slight leak when I inspected the rear brakes, discs and pads, and the brake fluid every 3 years.

No ABS on mine, so less to go wrong.


Something to try...
When you have the engine running, on tick over, how many times in quick succession can you press and release the brake pedal, before the brake warning light comes on?

The light comes on, when the vacuum is destroyed, and the vacuum develops again putting the light out after a short time, if all is working well. :thumb2

best regards,
Rustic

 

[firebobby]

Hi and welcome, with the engine off, pump the pedal a few times to get rid of the vac, what does the pedal feel like now? how much free play do you have ? (this means very light pressure till contact with the master cyl plunger is felt, this should only be a few mm) then start the engine, pump the pedal quickly a few times, does it improve? and keep your foot on it does it sink? await your reply, please keep it factual to exactly what I have said, Rick

Rick has already asked you to check this, using the above method, it fairly detailed and should give him a better idea as to what your problem may be.:nenau

 

[cateringcol]

Hello Chaps:-

I've just found 10 mins to try the engine running brake pedal test as you severally have suggested.

When Rustic, you say that the pedal goes down (quite) a bit, I took a measuring tape out; without cadence brake pumping the pedal, just a steady push, it actually travels 3" !! To me, thats quite a lot.

Pumping the pedal brings it harder closer to the top of travel, but not immensely.

Turning engine off, brings a harder pedal and much less travel.

So, is this all normal??!!??

Have I missed any acid tests?

Thanks for all your on-going help and advice.

C.