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Big Col

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Messages
58
How many of you use genuine filters? I'm gonna change the oil and there's not a lot of difference in price so which to use pattern or genuine:nenau

Colin
 
I always try to use genuine filters, I do my own servicing so don't mind buying genuine, as you say, not much if any difference in price :)
 
i usally buy mine from milners a lot cheaper than all the local motor factors by me!
 
Never, pointless.

Just use 'blue print' they're fine
 
i just get whatever the motor factor has in stock, no postage or waiting like milners!
 
i just get whatever the motor factor has in stock, no postage or waiting like milners!

Me too he even drops things off if im not in chucks em over gate
I find they are competative on price and dont charge to take things back
 
Me too he even drops things off if im not in chucks em over gate
I find they are competative on price and dont charge to take things back

Got my oil filter from local factor, Fram one, I said I want a discount and he knocked £2 off

I never pay full price, I always look for 10-15% I always quote a price ( seen on ebay :augie) and he usually matches.

These days you need to save the odd £ here and there.:thumbs
 
Be a bit careful, as there are some blue ones with Chinese/Japanes writing on them.

The oil filter I used, which I got off of eBay would not seal properly.

I always use FRAM filters, and have never had an issue.

Alan
 
Be a bit careful, as there are some blue ones with Chinese/Japanes writing on them.

The oil filter I used, which I got off of eBay would not seal properly.
I always use FRAM filters, and have never had an issue.

Alan

Blue print are a supplier, I bought a Blue print air filter, good reputation as far as I am aware.

The Bolshi or what ever, can have a few issues if I recall from other posts on this site. These ones are usually blue as well.

When you fit a new filter and then on future start ups, the oil pressure light should go out in one or two seconds, the cheapo poor quality ones sometimes take five seconds or more, this is often due to oil draining out of the filter, but can't see that on the vertical filters unless it syphons back out..:eek:

No oil = lots of wear, so don't scrimp on cheap filters.

Tip..
Posted again, always part fill the new filter with oil, and the oil light will probably go out within 3 seconds on first start. Better than waiting up to 10 seconds waiting for the filter to fill, before you get any lubrication.:eek:

BUT guess what...:nenau do you think garages do this every service.:doh

yea sure...
 
Think its blue point but might be wrong
As said use your local motor factors talk to the guy you might get a discount
Buy off ebay you takes your chance
 
I have just realised the Blue ( can't remember if it was Blue Print or the blue nasty cheapy described by TONUP ) oil filter was causing my oil light to stay on longer at start up in the mornings:eek:. I have just done an oil change and changed to a genuine filter and the light now goes out in 2 seconds. Thought this may have been due to temperature but we had a cold snap last week so that rules that one out. Same oil used so definately the filter :eek:

Might just stick to genuine ones from now on
 
I was quoted just over £11 for a genuine one, they were way out on the air and pollen though, double the price. Brought a new sump washer £1.38 give the bloke £2 he said to me got no change give us a pound, I'll have two at that price then :nenau

Colin
 
I've just got some oil delivered from Opie Oils (15w/50 Fuchs Semi Synthetic), and ordered the oil and fuel filters from them too, MAHLE brand.

I've used these filters without any problems on my other vehicles, anyone used them on their Terrano/Maverick?



Mick
 
i have to say i prefer full mineral oil in my T2's, it's a bit more expensive but they seem to 'use' a lot less and run better on it :thumb2

15/40 is my prefered grade :thumb2
 
I think the lesson is... If its to cheap to be true, then it probably isn't going to be much good.

Not a universal rule, but cheap imported copies of genuine parts, or those of reputable manufacturers can't be worth the risk.

Alan
 
i have to say i prefer full mineral oil in my T2's, it's a bit more expensive but they seem to 'use' a lot less and run better on it :thumb2

15/40 is my prefered grade :thumb2

Plank,

Using this is going to be a bit more costly, so what frequency do you change the oil. I currently am on a 3k mile schedule using GTX.

Regards

Alan
 
I think the lesson is... If its to cheap to be true, then it probably isn't going to be much good.

Not a universal rule, but cheap imported copies of genuine parts, or those of reputable manufacturers can't be worth the risk.

Alan
I could not agree more - we are talking a few quid difference here :thumbs
 

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