Exhaust Removal - Terrano

[TONUP]

I have just got in from bandaging and bodging the leaky exhaust on my T2, however it looks like I will have to bite the bullet and replace the whole system, which is in 3 parts... front pipe, middle section and tail pipe.

Most of it looks fairly straightforward to do, but I am a bit concerned that where the front pipe joins the manifold the three bolts look very corroded. I anticipate a problem shifting them. I have had a look and I intend to remove the air filter and fuel filter assemblies, which should allow me to get on the nuts, but can anyone give me any tips on tackling the rust laden nuts. I have thought about a daily soaking in WD40 for three or four days prior to starting, although I have always doubted the effectiveness of this?

Also what is the likelihood of shearing one of the studs and the ramifications of doing so

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Regards

Alan

 

[Bee Elzebub]

Don't know if it's still sold anywhere, but PlusGas used to be the best for soaking & loosening rusty stuff. Heat is the obvious loosener, but flames in there would be a tad dangerous...
Is there enough room to get a nut-splitter tool in there? That's a better risk than undoing them & shearing the studs, though it'll still leave the problem of getting the threads clean & de-rusted; hopefully, there'll be some practical experience offered from long-serving members, if none of mine is useful...

 

[rustic]

I have heard that removing the front nearside wheel and inner rubber cover gives better access if that helps.

To be honest, I chickened out on this one, and Qwickfit did the front part, for your above reasons.
When I got back, they had to lower the front torsion bars to get the new one in. But it can be done without doing this......:nenau

A nut splitter sounds a good idea though. Clean up the stud thread with a wire brush, and run a suitable die down the thread to clean it up.

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

I did mine not long ago and I sort of remember them being bolts that go straight through rather than studs? might be wrong though, If i get time I'll have a look in the morning :nenau

 

[TONUP]

The nut splitter idea is good, and I have one. I could have a 'dry run' and see if it will fit over the nut comfortably. The pipe is quite close I think.

Also I have seen a special set of sockets in the the Machine Mart catalogue, made by IRWIN for extracting rusty nuts and bolts, although this puts stress on the studs again.

I seem to remember Plus Gas from years ago as well. I have a look online.

Thanks

Alan

 

[Deleted account DD]

I would definitely advise nut splitter if it works then a clean up on the thread.

One of the studs sheared on mine and it was a b######d to get to and drill.

 

[illy]

Plus gas still on sale but hard to fiend, have you got the means to heat them up,and I mean red hot.

illy

 

[briggie]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001P02...de=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B0001P02RK

 

[TONUP]

Thank for all the replies and suggestions.

To be honest I'm between a rock and a hard place on this one. I'm taking the caravan away in a couple of weeks and have work commitments requiring the car up to then I.e I can't afford to have it off the road and I'm worried about the exhaust falling off whilst on holiday and being at the mercy of some unscrupulous exhaust fitter away from home, and/or attempting and failing to complete a timely repair myself and letting the family down.

Sh1t or bust as they say. I'll have another look tomorrow.

Regards

Alan

 

[Deleted account DD]

I can see your dilemma

Is there anyway you can split the front to middle joint and replace from there backwards ? front pipes are usually the last to go and may well last a while yet if its the same age as middle/rear pieces.

If it screws up later you can replace it at your leisure and inside a filler piece where you will inevitably have to cut

 

[solarman216]

they might look rusty, but have you actually put a spanner on them and tried, we have done many head gaskets here and although tight never had a problem with the three flange nuts, Rick

 

[Deleted account DD]

they might look rusty, but have you actually put a spanner on them and tried, we have done many head gaskets here and although tight never had a problem with the three flange nuts, Rick

I suspect he is planning sensibly,we all hope theyll come off straight away but its no good when theres pressure on, it going wrong trying to get them off with no plan B.

No point turning this into a "HELP NEEDED URGENTLY" thread , proper planning (and research) prevents............................

 

[Qplate]

I did my front pipe 2 weeks ago(1997 TDi) and sprayed WD40 on the day before and had no trouble undoing the nuts, got the one that's behind near the back engine block from under neath using long extensions and a swivel joint. I had to remove the air filter and fixing bracket that holds the 3 vacume valves and also drop the front prop shaft off (do not for get to mark the shaft at either end so it goes back to its original location) then i slid the front pipe in and down from the engine bay. So you do not have to drop any cross member/Torsion bar, the only bolts i snapped were the ones holding the air box /vacume plate to the inner wing but was not to bad to drill them through and replace with nut and bolts. Also the the rear tale pipe nuts and bolts snapped but no probs as they were just replaced.
My front pipe had broke at the front weld to the flexible joint so when the three manifold nuts were off it just dropped though. Hope this helps, good luck with it.

Steve.

 

[4wheel]

I found Power Flo helpfull and reasonable.I had a Peugot 406 when in Brighton and the local guy made up an exhaust for me using a discarded s/s silencer etc.Perfect. Used them again in Bristol and saved a fortune on my Land Cruiser. They seem to be one man band outlets so do not charge the earth and will use their initiative rather than insist on the standard fittings.Worth having a chat and getting a quote.

 

[rustic]

Compromise:-
Replace middle and rear, yourself, then either check the front pipe as mentioned earlier as they do last longer than the middle or rear, or try the front pipe, or get an exhaust company to replace the front if need be.

You don't even need to jack it up for the middle and rear.

Angle grinder would make cutting the bolts much easier.
Exhaust paste, new gaskets and new nuts/bolts required.

Tip, soak the exhaust hanger bolts in release agent, and when you refit the "U" bolt that attaches to the gearbox, fit double lock nuts, as these have a habit of coming loose and making a horrible noise and you'll think the gearbox is wrecked... Voice of experience.....:thumb2

Good luck.
best regards,
Rustic

 

[spiderpig37]

changed the middle and back bits on mine not long ago not a hard job but i used parts from my local motor factors and had to cut a piece off the middle or back bit where it joins cant remember which way but need to shorten it as it was rubbing where it goes over the back axel
cheers Andy

 

[makeitfit]

Power flow did mine too :clap except the turbo down pipe. I got that done eventually by a local guy and that does make a real difference to throttle response :naughty

 

[Timbo_1975]

Power flow did mine too :clap except the turbo down pipe. I got that done eventually by a local guy and that does make a real difference to throttle response :naughty

Agreed, the stock elbow and downpipe is a huge restriction, even on a standard motor.

 

[TONUP]

Thanks for all of the replies. I've been busy with work this week, but have now had an opportunity to thouroughly inspect the whole system.

Unfortunately the front pipe is corroded badly by the 'flex' part and there are holes on the two remaining sections on the welds where the pipes meet the silencer boxes... if that makes sense.

Anyway I have ordered all of the bits from a company called Online Automotive, and I hope to start the work Friday evening after work.

Once again I really appreciate the advice and ideas. I now have a much clearer idea of what I am getting into as a result... 'eyes wide open' as they say.

I'll report back when completed hopefully, or when stuck

Best Regards

Alan

 

[TONUP]

I don't want bore anyone with this one, but a quick progress report follows...

Two nuts undone, third one snapped. Well it was always going to happen.

Gonna try and drill it out the damaged stud tomorrow. Wish me luck!

Alan