exhaust downpipe

[paulp]

Hi all

I have a blowing flexipipe on my Mistral 2.7td, I am quite wary of unbolting the downpipe as the studs may shear. so I am assuming that the Nissan Terrano downpipe is the same as I have a Terrano centre section and tail pipe.

Firstly are my concerns about snapped studs a reality?

secondly I looking to cut out the flexipipe and put a bolt on section in its place- so I am wondering if anyone know the outer diameter of the said downpipe

Thanks in advance Paulp

 

[solarman216]

Yes the manifold bolts can be a pig, just luck of the draw, I can measure front pipe in the morning, Rick

 

[paulp]

exhaust

thanks Rick

really appreciate your time

just to confirm square headlight model

regards Paulp

 

[panelbeater]

a few days of wd40 and do up befor truing to undo.

 

[perelaar]

For what it is worth: had no problems at all with sheared studs on my T2 when replacing the downpipe. Soaked repeatedly in penetrating oil over a few days, and made sure to clean up any exposed thread above the nut before spraying the oil and trying to unbolt.

Difficult and fiddly access though.

 

[Banshee]

Get a wire brush attachment on a drill or angle grinder and give the threads some cleaning, then once the bolts are nice and hot, douse them in a good helping of penetrating fluid and you should be good to go :thumb2 Will also help to do it just after you've been on a run with the truck so the exhaust is hot, let it cool a while though, don't burn yourself!!!

Failing that, if it really gives you that much grief just get the angle grinder on them and replace them for some shiny new ones :thumb2

I did this job recently on my Commercial, it's had a custom made Powerflow stainless front pipe centre box and tail pipe, as such when the Flexi started to blow on it I realised I couldn't just buy a standard front pipe off the shelf so would have to modify the one I had.

 

[solarman216]

50 mm both sides of the flexi, Rick

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

When I did my T2, I did like the others, sprayed some WD40 round the bolts over a few days before I was ready to do the job, Mind you, that is fun in it's own right, as they are hard to get to, so you end up having to spray it pretty liberally around the area and hope you get it on the threads.

Then on the day, I ran the engine for about 5mins to get the exhaust hot, sprayed it again (Smoking!!), and then using 2 x 12", and 1 x 6" extension bars, and a universal drive joint between the end extension, and the socket, did them up a fraction of a turn. I then sprayed them again, and set to undoing them a 1/4 of a turn, then doing them back up, then undoing them another 1/4 of a turn, and so on until they came off. By the way, it's a lot easier if the Socket UJ is one with the spring round the outside to keep it straight, as the first one I used kept flopping over...

On Suz's T2, after reading about Banshee's exhaust, and him giving me the part number, I ordered a Klarius Flexi Repair Pipe D 51.5mm L 290mm, and tried to do it with the exhaust in place. I still had to remove the cross member, as the flexi is behind it. I used a reciprocating saw, but it was a fiddly job. I still had to undo a couple of the exhaust mounts further back to get enough movement on the rear of the system to slide the flexi in place, and one of those broke! Once I fitted the flexi, and put it all back together, I found the exhaust clamps used to hold and seal it in place were fouling the cross member once the engine was running, and no amount of turning them and repositioning seemed to get them to clear

In the end, I took the front section off, this time with just a liberal spray of WD40, and the same 1/4 turn, then do back up method, and welded the flexy in place.

To be honest, I wish I had just bought the front section complete, and done the job properly from the beginning as the complete section is only about £10 more than the flexi and clamps cost.

 

[Banshee]

When I did my T2, I did like the others, sprayed some WD40 round the bolts over a few days before I was ready to do the job, Mind you, that is fun in it's own right, as they are hard to get to, so you end up having to spray it pretty liberally around the area and hope you get it on the threads.

Then on the day, I ran the engine for about 5mins to get the exhaust hot, sprayed it again (Smoking!!), and then using 2 x 12", and 1 x 6" extension bars, and a universal drive joint between the end extension, and the socket, did them up a fraction of a turn. I then sprayed them again, and set to undoing them a 1/4 of a turn, then doing them back up, then undoing them another 1/4 of a turn, and so on until they came off. By the way, it's a lot easier if the Socket UJ is one with the spring round the outside to keep it straight, as the first one I used kept flopping over...

On Suz's T2, after reading about Banshee's exhaust, and him giving me the part number, I ordered a Klarius Flexi Repair Pipe D 51.5mm L 290mm, and tried to do it with the exhaust in place. I still had to remove the cross member, as the flexi is behind it. I used a reciprocating saw, but it was a fiddly job. I still had to undo a couple of the exhaust mounts further back to get enough movement on the rear of the system to slide the flexi in place, and one of those broke! Once I fitted the flexi, and put it all back together, I found the exhaust clamps used to hold and seal it in place were fouling the cross member once the engine was running, and no amount of turning them and repositioning seemed to get them to clear

In the end, I took the front section off, this time with just a liberal spray of WD40, and the same 1/4 turn, then do back up method, and welded the flexy in place.

To be honest, I wish I had just bought the front section complete, and done the job properly from the beginning as the complete section is only about £10 more than the flexi and clamps cost.

Ah never mind Jim!!! At least you can say that you've used one before if asked in the future.

It was the perfect solution for me as I couldn't be bothered to get another stainless pipe made up and would have been expensive too

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Ah never mind Jim!!! At least you can say that you've used one before if asked in the future.

It was the perfect solution for me as I couldn't be bothered to get another stainless pipe made up and would have been expensive too

Jim???? :nenau

I think replacing the flexi probably works much better if you have a body lift, as that gives you a lot more room through the cross members to play with.

 

[jims-terrano]

I just chickened out and paid someone to do mine. Easier on the knuckles too

 

[Banshee]

Jim???? :nenau

I think replacing the flexi probably works much better if you have a body lift, as that gives you a lot more room through the cross members to play with.

Sorry mate, was on my phone without glasses and thought it was Jims-Terrano that I'd replied to :lol :doh :freak3:

 

[paulp]

exhaust

dear all

great response, thank you all for your responses and advice.

best regards Paulp