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?????

if you bump then loss of power could it be something simple as battery leads? lose terminal or fractured maybe

Wish it was that simple Just a figure of speech when i said bump Just meant die,s So have to pull over its ticking over thats all Turn her off back on and away we go
 
didn't Stinka have a problem like this? might be worth giving him a shout :nenau
 
I had the exact same symptoms when I had the wrong MAF fitted. It would work until the car warmed up and then there would be no response to any throttle input but the car would still tick over. I got round it by disconnecting the MAF until I got the right one. You end up with less power but at least you have some.

Try disconnecting the MAF and see if the problem goes away, just put up with the lack of power for now. If the problem stops then you know it's a faulty MAF.
 
This might sound silly but check you brake light switch.

When the brakes are applied you may find the engine is forced to idle where it will tick over smoothly. The switch is monitored on the 3.0 and on most modern engines so if a faulty throttle potentiometer is present giving a power demand it is countermanded by the application of the brakes via the brake light switch.

You can see if your car has this switch wiring by driving it with some throttle and touching the brake pedal with your left foot.

Additionally on the (3.0 at least) a blown fuse on the brake light circuit will after several miles give you an engine management light as the computer has not seen the brakes operating and assumes the above brake safety feature is faulty.
 
I had the exact same symptoms when I had the wrong MAF fitted. It would work until the car warmed up and then there would be no response to any throttle input but the car would still tick over. I got round it by disconnecting the MAF until I got the right one. You end up with less power but at least you have some.

Try disconnecting the MAF and see if the problem goes away, just put up with the lack of power for now. If the problem stops then you know it's a faulty MAF.

Thanks will give that a go in the morning for a couple of days Dont think it is that though As does it cold and warm Had her plugged in again tonight Comes up with Turbo Boost Fault So more of a investigation needed Thanks for the help Keep sending them my way Will get to the end of it
 
well Darryl wish is was somewhere free but no We have our fuel at the farm so i go up there in my van fill my drums up then put in my R20 So think with doing that all the time Thats the prob dirt
By the way good name lol

Darrell

:lol:lol:lol great name

could the turbo be over boosting different truck but my bro had a problem like this and Mitsubishi said it was overboosting this was an l200 though
 
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:lol:lol:lol great name

could the turbo be over boosting different truck but my bro had a problem like this and Mitsubishi said it was overboosting this was an l200 though

Thanks Darryl Dont get me started with them piles of crap Had a shotgun ? :doh Had the same prob It was the pump Mits told me it was over boosting and bla bla bla After months of peeeeing about Mitsubishi main HQ admitted to me on the phone it was pump fault And they were aware of the matter :doh They told me some shoguns were fitted with a zexel pump and some with another type And all that had the zexel type of pump fitted had a prop But they would not fix the prob So i did Sold it :clap But thanks anyway for info
 
Sorted

Well after weeks of messing about trying to find the prob :doh I got there, It was the Air filter all the time, It was a paper filter with a tin top and bottom Then two rubber seals either end, And what had happen was a seal had fell off one end there for she was getting the wrong amount of air to the maf The filter was rattling around in filter housing Anyway new filter fitted Runs and pulls like a train :clap :thumb2 All that for a bloody filter :rolleyes: Thanks to those who tried to help :thumbs
 
ha. who'd of thunk it. glad you got it sorted. bet your glad you didnt change the turbo
 
Well after weeks of messing about trying to find the prob :doh I got there, It was the Air filter all the time, It was a paper filter with a tin top and bottom Then two rubber seals either end, And what had happen was a seal had fell off one end there for she was getting the wrong amount of air to the maf The filter was rattling around in filter housing Anyway new filter fitted Runs and pulls like a train :clap :thumb2 All that for a bloody filter :rolleyes: Thanks to those who tried to help :thumbs

Do not understand that as the maff is after the filter, so filter or no filter should not make any difference to the maff reading, but maybe rayf can elaborate, Rick
 
Do not understand that as the maff is after the filter, so filter or no filter should not make any difference to the maff reading, but maybe rayf can elaborate, Rick
A rapid rise in the MAF voltage output will cause the ECU to register an over boost condition and thereby run a safe map (limp mode) until a restart.

As it's possible to run the motor with a high flow air filter like K&N, unrestricted airflow is obviously not the root cause.
I can only speculate from DEE's description that the air filter may have been "bouncing" around in the housing giving rise to sudden changes in air flow as it seated & unseated itself?
 
A rapid rise in the MAF voltage output will cause the ECU to register an over boost condition and thereby run a safe map (limp mode) until a restart.

As it's possible to run the motor with a high flow air filter like K&N, unrestricted airflow is obviously not the root cause.
I can only speculate from DEE's description that the air filter may have been "bouncing" around in the housing giving rise to sudden changes in air flow as it seated & unseated itself?

sounds good to me Rick
 
!!!

A rapid rise in the MAF voltage output will cause the ECU to register an over boost condition and thereby run a safe map (limp mode) until a restart.

As it's possible to run the motor with a high flow air filter like K&N, unrestricted airflow is obviously not the root cause.
I can only speculate from DEE's description that the air filter may have been "bouncing" around in the housing giving rise to sudden changes in air flow as it seated & unseated itself?

Well not to sure myself But since i changed the filter I have done about 500 miles 200 with a fully loaded 16ft trailer on She has not missed a beet since Before that had a job to do a mile before she died ? Once again Thanks chaps
 

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