Engine Rebuild KA24E

[solarman216]

having owned both petrol and a 2.7 TDi, I can confirm that the petrol has far more low down torque than the diesel, I guess the 2.7 torque improves and probably overtakes the petrol as the turbo comes in but at 1000 to 1500 revs the petrol is king, Rick

 

[solarman216]

spent a little time fabricating a but of paxolin as a tight side chain slider, the old metal one is in the foreground and my attempt is behind, the chain runs in the groove, the metal part had a plastic bit fitted to it of similar shape but is in the sump in about 20 bits with hardly any wear marks from chain so it broke up soon after fitment, so am not tempted to pay Nissans £70 plus vat for the same,

 

[solarman216]

this is it in place but needs a little more work as timing cover will not fit yet bit more grinding and cleaning up to do

 

[solarman216]

this is a chain I purchased for the water wheel some time ago used some of it but had this left and it turns out it is the same, just need to shorten it and join it, lucky got all the tools,

 

[solarman216]

on the down side been checking out paxolin whilst what I have came out of a 4ft square oil filled transformer and so thought it would be OK I am now not so sure as most paxolin seems to be rated to 90 deg C and engines get hotter than that so I think it is back to the drawing board, Rick

 

[stinka]

Will the paxolin not be quickly worn down and dirty your oil ?

 

[jims-terrano]

Oh bad luck with the paxolin Rick and you did such a good job. I wish we were closer to your location.

 

[solarman216]

Will the paxolin not be quickly worn down and dirty your oil ?

paxolin is actually very hard and wear resistant, one of the reasons I chose it and I knew it was oil resistant as what I have was in oil, but temperature is the killer, and just possibly engine oils which are different to transformer oils, so now looking at brassing a brass sheet onto the old steel slider with beaten up turns to form a channel, this is to stop the chain touching the Ali timing case which has a waterway running through it, or at the end of the day at the steel slider has groves in it that are pretty well defined these should keep the chain in place, the other sliders I have you can see the chain has slopped about and made no real channels, or maybe weld a bar each side to create a channel, as I say back to the drawing board, Rick

 

[Kishada]

would love to but am not of the same calibre as makeitfit :bow, as on the petrol you would have to play with the ECU, in fact you would need some device to feed info to the ECU what pressure the turbo is running at, well at least I think that would be needed as I cannot see the maf coping with a turbo, but I could be wrong, trouble is with a petrol an over weak mixture burns holes in pistons, Rick

If you want any advice on turboing the motor feel free to ask.
I turbo'd an SR20 unit which was 150bhp stock and now running ~280bhp with a Garret T28. I actually have a Garret T25 kicking about that's only done a few thousand K since a rebuild.

Hardest parts of a retro turbo conversion are sorting the exhaust manifold and downpipe. With the electronics you'll get away with running the stock AFM to a degree as long as you're not greedy, then an Apexi safc (piggyback fuel controller for the ECU) and adjustable fuel pressure regulator and wideband lambda sensor to map your fuelling.

 

[stinka]

a j pipe is a crude but effective way of getting a turbo conversion up and running, and there's plenty of room on a Terrano

 

[stinka]

Actually, it would be easier and cheaper to just put the 200sx s14 engine in, that's the readily available sr20det

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SR20DET

200bhp stock and 280bhp available with a few simple mods

 

[solarman216]

If you want any advice on turboing the motor feel free to ask.
I turbo'd an SR20 unit which was 150bhp stock and now running ~280bhp with a Garret T28. I actually have a Garret T25 kicking about that's only done a few thousand K since a rebuild.

Hardest parts of a retro turbo conversion are sorting the exhaust manifold and downpipe. With the electronics you'll get away with running the stock AFM to a degree as long as you're not greedy, then an Apexi safc (piggyback fuel controller for the ECU) and adjustable fuel pressure regulator and wideband lambda sensor to map your fuelling.

OK OK I admit defeat, you have lost me now, I only want a stock reliable engine, regards, Rick

 

[solarman216]

Getting back to the bad timing chain sliders on this engine, I have come up with another idea, the bottom slider needs a guide to stop the chain under certain conditions from hitting the waterway only a couple of mm away, Nissan's answer was a plastic slider on the steel plate, an improvement on the all plastic which broke up and ended in the sump, the mod is about as good, stlill ends up in the sump, so my plan now is to weld a guide on the outer edge of the slider and then fit a brass plate about 3 mm thick the length of the slider to bring the chain back up to where it should be, and steel on brass should be fine, just need a method of fixing the brass to the steel, still looking at that one but not tonight, Rick

 

[solarman216]

this is the latest incarnation

had a play this evening and made this from the old worn slider, welded the sidebar on and fabricated the brass runner folded top and bottom, I had hoped that the folds would be enough to hold it in place but have now decided on belt and braces to silver solder it along the right hand side brass to steel, also plan to do the same thing with the slack side one, more on that as I do it, Rick

 

[solarman216]

second thoughts

been considering the different expansion rates tween steel and brass, maybe not such a good idea, has anyone any other thoughts on a good securing method, at the mo I am thinking brass rivets with the heads countersunk into the brass, should have some old truck brake rivets around, any other ideas? Rick

 

[stinka]

No ideas mate, but I'm in awe of your ingenious fabrication as ever :thumb2