Engine Not Starting, Glow Plug Light Not On

[Rusdat]

Problem Update

Hello Gents. Update on the mystery problem and new questions

I tried the temporary reset procedure for NATS, as described by Thomas61.

I turned the key to what I believe is the "ON" position. The click before the indicator lamp go on. The little red NATS light on top of the dashboard did not turn off after 15-20 min. I tried a second time to leave the key in this position for a few hours. The NATS light did not turn off, but kept flashing happily

According to the rate of flashes, it does not look like there's a problem with NATS, but that of course does not necessarily mean there are not

If it's not NATS, could it be a "Start" relay controlling the current for the glow plug relay and the injector pump?? If such a relay exists of course.

Cheers!

 

[Banshee]

Hello Gents. Update on the mystery problem and new questions

I tried the temporary reset procedure for NATS, as described by Thomas61.

I turned the key to what I believe is the "ON" position. The click before the indicator lamp go on. The little red NATS light on top of the dashboard did not turn off after 15-20 min. I tried a second time to leave the key in this position for a few hours. The NATS light did not turn off, but kept flashing happily

According to the rate of flashes, it does not look like there's a problem with NATS, but that of course does not necessarily mean there are not

If it's not NATS, could it be a "Start" relay controlling the current for the glow plug relay and the injector pump?? If such a relay exists of course.

Cheers!

Good deduction!!!!!! Not sure of such a relay and you're already in the realms now of what would be out of my comfort zone so fair play :bow

Did you try what Panelbeater said about providing your own live to the IP?

 

[Thomas61]

Hello Gents. Update on the mystery problem and new questions

I tried the temporary reset procedure for NATS, as described by Thomas61.

I turned the key to what I believe is the "ON" position. The click before the indicator lamp go on. The little red NATS light on top of the dashboard did not turn off after 15-20 min. I tried a second time to leave the key in this position for a few hours. The NATS light did not turn off, but kept flashing happily

According to the rate of flashes, it does not look like there's a problem with NATS, but that of course does not necessarily mean there are not

If it's not NATS, could it be a "Start" relay controlling the current for the glow plug relay and the injector pump?? If such a relay exists of course.

Cheers!

Hi,

Just looking at my ignition barrel now. The different click positions of the key are written on the barrel. The ON is the one that makes the instrument lights illuminate oil , abs,battery,glow plug etc. The next click would make the truck start then automatically return back to the ON position.
Did you have the key turned to the ON position ? Forgive me if you did but not sure by your reply.

The sequence on my ignition barrel goes.

LOCK ( can take key out/put in )
ACC
ON
START

Take care

 

[Rusdat]

Hi,

Just looking at my ignition barrel now. The different click positions of the key are written on the barrel. The ON is the one that makes the instrument lights illuminate oil , abs,battery,glow plug etc. The next click would make the truck start then automatically return back to the ON position.
Did you have the key turned to the ON position ? Forgive me if you did but not sure by your reply.

The sequence on my ignition barrel goes.

LOCK ( can take key out/put in )
ACC
ON
START

Take care

No I had the key in the position before the panel lights come on, because the NATS light is not flashing in the "ON" position. I misunderstood So there will not be any harm done in having the key in the "ON" position for 15-20 min I guess? No overheating of relays and such? If not I will try ASAP!!

This is really bad situation for me! I am at my homestead far out on the country side. 30 km to shops, 250 km to nearest big city..

 

[Rusdat]

Good deduction!!!!!! Not sure of such a relay and you're already in the realms now of what would be out of my comfort zone so fair play :bow

Did you try what Panelbeater said about providing your own live to the IP?

I have not tried that just yet Banshee I'm kind of nervous about making even more problems than I have I mean, the glow plug relay also does not get power. I know the T2 will start regardless of that if it gets fuel but there's something strange going on here

Cheers!

 

[Thomas61]

No I had the key in the position before the panel lights come on, because the NATS light is not flashing in the "ON" position. I misunderstood So there will not be any harm done in having the key in the "ON" position for 15-20 min I guess? No overheating of relays and such? If not I will try ASAP!!

This is really bad situation for me! I am at my homestead far out on the country side. 30 km to shops, 250 km to nearest big city..

Hi,

Can't think of a reason why it would cause any problems leaving the key in the ON position. But if not happy wait for others to reply.

 

[Rusdat]

Hi,

Can't think of a reason why it would cause any problems leaving the key in the ON position. But if not happy wait for others to reply.

I will give it a try. Thank you

Cheers!

 

[Rusdat]

So I tried the temporary NATS reset procedure again.

25 min with the key in "ON" position. Back to "LOCK" for about 10 sec. It did not help. The glow plug light did not came on and the engine did not start. However there were not too much juice left on the battery after trying to start the yesterday.

The battery is a bit old and kind of weak. I measured 12.32V on it just now. I say it's weak because it does not take too much of cranking the starter before it runs out of juice.

Normally the glow plug light comes on even when the battery is very low on power.

I have asked earlier, but will it make sense to try and buy a diagnostics device?

Cheers!

 

[panelbeater]

not solving this is a no go.
charge the battery overnight off of the car.
i know sod all about the nats.except that on mine when it played up i took key out of ignition switch, got out locked car with KEY,waited a bit unlocked car with KEY put it in ignition and it started normally.
i do know how to solve engine problems though.
when my terry ip was playing up it took a very long time to finally tell me,i even paid for it to go on nissans diagnostic test,wast of cash that was as it told me no more than i had diagonalised.
now read and do please as you do not seem to be following all the help tips we are offering.
as a final resort being as i was away with my caravan and a long way from home and full tool kit i decided to sort my truck out after i had lots of safe mode and slow towingno starting getting it started then no starting.
everything that i have already posted i tried.
i took the intercooler off,4 bolts and a cable bolt,2 large clips on the rubber pipes not a lot really.
i had charged the battery overnight from my caravan.
i got a pop bottle with fresh derv in in with a small hole in lid it to let small amounts of fuel out.
with intercooler of you have direct access to inlet manifold,look in is it gry or wet,dry no fuel wet fuel.
with drivers window down reach in and turn on ignition to heat glow point.
with the easy start just a 1 or 2 second shot direct into rubber tube on o/s of lump ie drivers side,crank it and it will fire,it cant not fire,and run,it cant not run,then straight away change from easy start to fuel bottle,dribble derv in and it will keep running for as long as you dribble derv in.
it will proberbly smoke like hell due to all the times you have tried to start.
then stop fuel dribble and see if it carries on running,if it does leave to get hot.
if it stops try again the same proceduia.
then stop and try starting it normally.
now what have we learnt,if it starts good.but we have bypassed all electronics and fuel pump and stop solenoid etc,put it all back together and restart.
if it starts good.
if it fails to start normally you know its deffo one of the things you bypassed.
go back to my other posts about bypassing the items ie live wire to start relay,live wire to bus bar and fuel deffo there.
you say all 3 keys were ok.
try starting it,normal,if it does then its one of the items bypassed,so means finding where the fault to that item is,if it does not it the nats or ip pump.
get the lump running first then work back.good luck i wont be on line till 31st and hope that it is sorted by then.

 

[Thomas61]

Hi mate,

As a last thought from me as my thoughts and ideas are more or less up. But the last thought and do not for a moment think it would of happened and I expect you have already checked wiring for chaffing. But no rodents have got into the engine bay and chewed up any of your wiring. Stranger things have happened.

Good luck.

 

[panelbeater]

been away on jollys so whats happening to this,any successes

 

[Banshee]

Yes been wondering about this one myself :thumb2

 

[Rusdat]

Update.

Hello Gents

It have been a while since I have been posting. First off. The problem have not been solved.
I have been away from the Homestead here and parked the T2 at a local mechanic 30km from here. He was quite confident he could fix it.

Have "called" a lit of wires and what not. He have also had the BOSCH brain out. He also gave glow plugs and the high pressure fuel pump direct 12V. Glow plugs work and the fuel pump works too. (I Already knew that but he had to check of course). However, even the fuel pump works, no fuel goes to the injectors. This is not good at all. 1st September school and kindergarten starts..

This have become a very long thread, so I will try and summarize the best I can.

I parked the car in the evening. In the morning it did not start. Never had a problem with the T2.

- When I turn the key, the glow plug light does not light up.
- There are no power reaching the glow plug relay, but the relay works fine. When I give the relay 12V, the glow plug light does not come on.
- The high pressure fuel pump works with 12V directly as well. No fuel reaches the injectors though.
- I have tried the NATS override procedure several times. No luck. According to the NATS indicator light, NATS are OK. No strange flashing sequences.
- I have called all fuses and connections I could find.

The mechanic thinks the problem is related to the electronic gas pedal. He also wanted to run a diagnostics on the T2, but we could not find the plug anywhere. Since he did not fix the problem, he did not charge me anything. I had the car parked there almost 2 months.

I'm almost ready to do anything to get the T2 back in driving condition again. Winter will be here soon enough.

Thank you for your time

Cheers!

 

[solarman216]

I believe you have a Bosch pump, the foot brake has two switches one for stop lights the other cuts the fuel to the pump, (anyone with a Bosch pump try putting you foot on the brake and throttle at the same time, the engine cuts out) so worth checking this switch, Rick

 

[Rusdat]

I believe you have a Bosch pump, the foot brake has two switches one for stop lights the other cuts the fuel to the pump, (anyone with a Bosch pump try putting you foot on the brake and throttle at the same time, the engine cuts out) so worth checking this switch, Rick

Thank you for the help, input and time I will try that ASAP.

Cheers!

 

[panelbeater]

yes it stops fuel going in,worth a try.
been away again and this is still a problem.

 

[Rusdat]

Problem Maybe Found

Hello Gents,

So I might just have found out what the mystery problem is. It could be the electronic gas pedal.

According to the workshop manual, there should be 0.5 K Ohm fully closed and 4 Kilo Ohm fully open between the number 3 and 4 terminals, if I remember correctly. My multi meter reads 0 Ohm. Nothing.

I have also noticed the the MI (Malfunction Indicator) lamp also does not light up. So no light in the glow plug lamp and MI lamp. The electronic module seems to be a very expensive part indeed!

Cheers!

 

[solarman216]

Are your readings taken direct on the pedal terminals? this looks like a poor/corroded connection to me rather than a pedal fault, Rick

 

[Rusdat]

Are your readings taken direct on the pedal terminals? this looks like a poor/corroded connection to me rather than a pedal fault, Rick

I took off the pedal assembly and did the reading on the connector terminals. They look fine. I attached the multi-meter and did the test according to the manual. I think it is terminals 3 and 4. The meter reads "1" when set to Ohm, and it read "1" even when I tried to give "gas" with the pedal. No activity on the meter at all. I also tried and "call" the 2 terminals, and no beeping.

These Bosch "potentiometers" are quite expensive and I don't feel like buying unless I know that this is the problem.

Cheers!

 

[solarman216]

OK I might have a Bosch gas pedal, I certainly had a Bosch pumped vehicle that went for scrap but cannot remember if I removed the gas pedal prior to sending it to the smelters, I will have to look in the workshop but not a lot of time at the mo, Rick