engine malfunction light

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been out and checked the plug and what a mess :!: the plug was fine but the wires had been chopped and taped back together. :? cut back the suspect wire and re-joined it with a connector for now .will let you know how it runs tommorrow as i'm not doing anything else tonight.fired her up and she burst into life staight away.normaly cranks a few times before firing.thanks again toolbox for the advice :smile: your a star :!:
 
Pleased to hear it elty001 :p if it a real mess then it'll prob be best when you've got the time to sort out all the conections as it sounds as if someone has a bit of a play about :roll:
 
tell me about it :? theres more than just the wires i needed to look at.all the plugs and wires just in front of the intercooler on the left hand side have been messed about with.the plastic casing that the wires run through has been removed and theres about 10 rolls of insulation tape wrapped round everything.gonna have a proper look at the weekend and replace any suspect wiring i can find. :|
 
Well done elty001, I have my fingers crossed for you.

You can get some heat shrink connectors that you can crimp the wires together and then when warmed with a lighter will shrink on to the wire to form a watertight seal.
There is also a version that does not require crimping, these require the bear ends of the wire placing in the joiner overlapping each other, there is a solder ring in them, that when heated with a lighter will melt the solder joining the wires these also shrink the plastic ousters to form a watertight seal.

Both version make a permanent good connection.
 
must be something more than the wire i re joined as it died and wouldn't fire at all earlier.got the bonnet up and did the old wire wiggle and she started and ran for about 15 mins then died again.got 3 days to sort it before i go away.rang my local garage and he can't look at it until at least next wednesday :(
 
gonna make a list of all the connections and tick them off as i check and repair them.read the fault codes again and i keep getting the same two:18 and 25.both are the fuel quantity adjuster sensor or related in some way.just getting quite fustrated as i will check something then it seems ok for a few days then comes back with a vengance. :evil:
 
Looking at the Workshop manual you should be able to check the wiring to the component in the injection pump from the pump harness connection. With a multi-meter set to measure resistance, test between pin 1 & pin 3 in the connector and also between pin 2 & 3 it should measure approximately 6.1ohms on both tests.
 
after having a good look at the wiring yesterday it looks like most of the wires that go to the injection pump have got what looks like a common ground which has been added.just to add to my fustation my mate checked the fault codes with his auto data manual and they are both a crankshaft sensor problem according to that. :? have tested the continuaty of the wires from plug to fuel pump and they are fine.might see if i can get hold of a new wiring loom and replace the lot.
also while checking the fuse boxes there is no relay in the main box under the bonnet and no fuse in the fuse box under the dash.not even the holder to take them either :?:
 
only managed to have a quick look under the bonnet as its been slashing it down all day.my brother in law(who knows his mechanics)seems to think it could be a build up of crud in the injector pump probably from using veg oil.he's offered to give it a good look over for me in the morning so who knows what he will find :?
 
well got the brother in law round and he gave the t2 a good look over.fuel injector pump is shot it,oil seals on turbo are blown.needs some welding on the inner wing,n/s rear brakes not working properly and then theres the wiring loom :? gonna have a look at a 1996 2.4 petrol in the morning and keep the 2.7 as a work in progress type project. :smile:
 
injector pump

is anyone familular with the inner workings of the t2 injector pump.took it off and had a look inside :? just wondered if the electrics can be replaced or if it is easier to replace the job lot.the mechanical side looks fine with no obvious defects but the electrics look like the inside of a clock :? any ideas anyone :|
 

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