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geoffdown

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hi think i might no what my idle problems are as i did not have any fault codes before hand i tryed disconnecting sensors to get codes up checked if it was the right code for that sensor and it was it then went out with out clearing codes so i got round to the temperture sensor the mil light came on read the code and it said it was the engine temp sensor so pluged back in thinking it would be like the other sensors but code would not clear by it self 2 weeks past and still same code with the mil light on all the time i have disconnected another sensor the injector no.1 and the then read there was two codes 1 was the engine temp code the other was injector no. 1 reconnected injector no.1 and after a couple of days that code went leaving engine temp code so i bought a new 1 for £10 but code still there and mil light on all the time but this is the other problem i cant read codes like every1 else if after 2 sec i remove paper clip the flashing mil light stops so i cant wipe the code in the same way either so i am now driving with mil light on all the time but no loss of any power so this could be f**ked ecu or damaged wiring loom for the engine temp sensor but that does not answer why i cant read or wipe the codes like every1 else can some 1 please help thanks
 
Geoff you PM'd me asking for 14Pin to 16Pin swap details,..
I did reply...
are you able to get the consult i/f to work?
 
hi sorry forgot to reply as up in the lakes on hols for 2 weeks but i could not get it to connect to the car but unsure if its the unit as the disc that came with it was broken so tryed some other softwear to work but dont no how to make it work i.e the green light wont light up on the unit but evrey thing i described here is with the paper clip so cant c y i cant read the codes like every1 else can or y i cant clear them my car is a terrano 2.7tdi year 2000 bosch system with a white 16pin obd port if that helps
 
Probably my fault...
I forgot to mention the 12V power connection:doh
Pin 7 on the 14P connector is +12 and on the 16P connector it is Pin 8
That should get you a green light:thumb2

As for the s/w, forget the junk you get supplied with, it is aimed at petrol engined vehicles.
You need to use ECUtalk.. you will struggle with most others.
http://www.ecutalk.com/downloads/ECUTalk_v1.3.5.exe
Check here for more info:
http://www.ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx


The 16 pin connector uses pins 12 (TX) 13 (RX) 5 (GND). & Pin 8 +12V
The 14 Pin connector uses pins 1 (RX) 2 (TX) 14 (GND) & Pin 7 +12V

Dont worry about the CLK (clock) line you wont need it on the 16 pin connector.

Actually 4 wires to contend with.....
 
Probably my fault...
I forgot to mention the 12V power connection:doh
Pin 7 on the 14P connector is +12 and on the 16P connector it is Pin 8
That should get you a green light:thumb2

As for the s/w, forget the junk you get supplied with, it is aimed at petrol engined vehicles.
You need to use ECUtalk.. you will struggle with most others.
http://www.ecutalk.com/downloads/ECUTalk_v1.3.5.exe
Check here for more info:
http://www.ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx


The 16 pin connector uses pins 12 (TX) 13 (RX) 5 (GND). & Pin 8 +12V
The 14 Pin connector uses pins 1 (RX) 2 (TX) 14 (GND) & Pin 7 +12V

Dont worry about the CLK (clock) line you wont need it on the 16 pin connector.

Actually 4 wires to contend with.....

ok if i can get a cheap soldering iron will try and do the pin 7 on the 14p to pin 8 on the 16p i am up in the lakes at mo wont be back in devon untill the royal wed but thanks for the help so far but y cant i read or wipe the codes in the usual way with the paper clip:rolleyes:
 

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